Ceramides are the major lipid constituent of lamellar sheets present in the intercellular spaces of the stratum corneum. These lamellar sheets are thought to provide the barrier property of the epidermis. It is generally accepted that the intercellular lipid domain is composed of approximately equimolar concentrations of free fatty acids, cholesterol, and ceramides. Ceramides are a structurally heterogeneous and complex group of sphingolipids containing derivatives of sphingosine bases in amide linkage with a variety of fatty acids. Differences in chain length, type and extent of hydroxylation, saturation etc. are responsible for the heterogeneity of the epidermal sphingolipids. It is well known that ceramides play an essential role in structuring and maintaining the water permeability barrier function of the skin. In conjunction with the other stratum corneum lipids, they form ordered structures. An essential factor is the physical state of the lipid chains in the nonpolar regions of the bilayers. The stratum corneum intercellular lipid lamellae, the aliphatic chains in the ceramides and the fatty acids are mostly straight long-chain saturated compounds with a high melting point and a small polar head group. This means that at physiological temperatures, the lipid chains are mostly in a solid crystalline or gel state, which exhibits low lateral diffusional properties and is less permeable than the state of liquid crystalline membranes, which are present at higher temperatures. The link between skin disorders and changes in barrier lipid composition, especially in ceramides, is difficult to prove because of the many variables involved. However, most skin disorders that have a diminished barrier function present a decrease in total ceramide content with some differences in the ceramide pattern. Formulations containing lipids identical to those in skin and, in particular, some ceramide supplementation could improve disturbed skin conditions. Incomplete lipid mixtures yield abnormal lamellar body contents, and disorder intercellular lamellae, whereas complete lipid mixtures result in normal lamellar bodies and intercellular bilayers. The utilization of physiological lipids according to these parameters have potential as new forms of topical therapy for dermatoses. An alternative strategy to improving barrier function by topical application of the various mature lipid species is to enhance the natural lipid-synthetic capability of the epidermis through the topical delivery of lipid precursors.

The pH of the skin follows a sharp gradient across the stratum corneum (SC), which is suspected to play an important role in controlling the enzymatic activities involved in cellular metabolism and renewal. This gradient is maintained by several systems, such as sweat and sebum secretion and degradation as well as cellular metabolism. At the surface of the skin, what is measured is in fact an apparent skin pH due to extracted material from the SC diffusing into water applied at the surface. pH values recorded at the surface of a semi hydrophobic milieu such as the SC should be interpreted with great caution because it is obvious that hydrogen ions are not in a pure solution at the surface of the skin. For a correct measurement of skin surface pH, it is recommended to follow all practical operating conditions. Care must be taken in identifying the skin site, healthy controls (age, gender, skin type), the time of day of the measurement and the environmental conditions. Also, subjects should receive precise instructions before the test, mainly in terms of hygiene procedure or use of topical products. The interpretation of data should not overlook the fact that even small differences in pH may reflect significant modifications at the molecular level. Although it is usually agreed that the pH of the skin surface may influence the cutaneous microflora, much remains to be learnt about the role of the acid mantle of the skin with regard to defensins and other protective mechanisms.

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The vesicle to micelle transition which results in the interaction of the Triton X-100 surfactant with phosphatidylcholine vesicles was studied by means of dynamic light scattering (at different reading angles) and by freeze-fracture electron microscopy techniques. Vesicle solubilization was produced by the direct formation of mixed micelles without the formation of complex intermediate aggregates. Thus, vesicle to micelle transformation was mainly governed by the progressive formation of mixed micelles within the bilayer. A subsequent separation of these micelles from the liposome surface (vesicle perforation by the formation of surfactant-stabilized holes on the vesicle surface) led to a complete solubilization of liposomes.z 1998 Federation of European Biochemical Societies.

Enzymatic synthesis of fatty acid esters of di-and trisaccharides is limited by the fact that most biological catalysts are inactivated by the polar solvents (e.g. dimethylsulfoxide, dimethylformamide) where these carbohydrates are soluble. This article reviews the methodologies developed to overcome this limitation, namely those involving control over the reaction medium, the enzyme and the support. We have proposed the use of mixtures of miscible solvents (e.g. dimethylsulfoxide and 2-methyl-2-butanol) as a general strategy to acylate enzymatically hydrophilic substrates.We observed that decreasing the hydrophobicity of the medium (i.e. lowering the percentage of DMSO) the molar ratio sucrose diesters vs. sucrose monoesters can be substantially enhanced. The different regioselectivity exhibited by several lipases and proteases makes feasible to synthesize different positional isomers, whose properties may vary considerably. In particular, the lipase from Thermomyces lanuginosus displays a notable selectivity for only one hydroxyl group in the acylation of sucrose, maltose, leucrose and maltotriose, compared with lipase from Candida antarctica. We have examined three immobilisation methods (adsorption on polypropylene, covalent coupling to Eupergit C, and silica-granulation) for sucrose acylation catalyzed by T. lanuginosus lipase. The morphology of the support affected significantly the reaction rate and/or the selectivity of the process.

The structural transition stages induced by the interaction of the non-ionic surfactant Triton X-100 on phosphatidylcholine unilamellar vesicles were studied by means of static and dynamic light-scattering, transmission-electron-microscopy (t.e.m.) and permeability changes. A linear correlation was observed between the effective surfactant/lipid molar ratios (Re) (‘three-stage’ model proposed for the vesicle solubilization) and the surfactant concentration throughout the process. However, this correlation was not noted for the partition coefficients of the surfactant between the bilayer and the aqueous medium (K). Thus a sharp initial K increase was observed until a maximum value was achieved for permeability alterations of 50% (initial step of bilayer saturation). Further surfactant additions resulted in a fall in the K values until 100% of bilayer permeability. Additional amounts of surfactant led to an increase in K until bilayer solubilization. Hence, a preferential incorporation of surfactant molecules into liposomes governs the initial interaction steps, leading to the initial stage of bilayer saturation with a free surfactant concentration that was lower than its critical micelle concentration (c.m.c.). Additional amounts of surfactant increased the free surfactant until the c.m.c. was reached, after which solubilization started to occur. Thus the initial step of bilayer saturation was achieved for a smaller surfactant concentration than that for the Resat, although this concentration was the minimum needed for solubilization to start. Large unilamellar vesicles began to form as the surfactant exceeded 15 mol% (50% bilayer permeability), the maximum vesicle growth being attained for 22 mol% (400 nm). Thereafter, static light-scattering started to decrease gradually, this fall being more pronounced after 40 mol%. The t.e.m. picture for 40 mol% (Resat.) showed unilamellar vesicles, although with traces of smaller structures. From 50 mol% the size distribution curves began to show a bimodal distribution. The t.e.m. pictures for 50-64 mol% revealed tubular structures, together with open bilayer fragments. Thereafter, increasing amounts of surfactant (65-69 mol%) led to planar multilayered structures which gradually tended to form concentric and helicoidal conformations. The scattered intensity decreased to a low constant value at more than 71-72 mol%. However, the surfactant concentration for the Re(sol) (72.6 mol %) still presented traces of aggregated structures, albeit with mono-modal size-distribution curves (particle size of 50 nm). This vesicle size corresponded to the liposome solubilization via mixed-micelle formation.

Our group has recently observed a nonlinear tendency in antioxidant capacity of different hydroxytyrosol fatty acid esters in fish oil-in-water emulsions, where a maximum of antioxidant efficiency appeared for hydroxytyrosol octanoate. These results appear to disagree with the antioxidant polar paradox. Because the physical location of the antioxidants in an oil-water interface has been postulated as an important factor in explaining this behavior, we have prepared a series of tyrosol and hydroxytyrosol fatty acid esters with different chain length and studied their surface-active properties in water, because these physicochemical parameters could be directly related to the preferential placement at the interface. We have found that tyrosol and hydroxytyrosol fatty acid esters are relevant surfactants when the right hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) is attained and, in some cases, as efficient as emulsifiers commonly used in industry, such as Brij 30 or Tween 20. Moreover, a nonlinear dependency of surfactant effectiveness is observed with the increase in chain length of the lipophilic antioxidants. This tendency seems to fit quite well with the reported antioxidant activity in emulsions, and the best antioxidant of the series (hydroxytyrosol octanoate) is also a very effective surfactant. This potential explanation of the nonlinear hypothesis will help in the rational design of antioxidants used in oil-in-water emulsions.

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