Modeling of depth‐induced wave breaking under finite depth wave growth conditions

Westhuysen, A. J. Van der

doi:10.1029/2009jc005433

Cited by 62 publications

(45 citation statements)

References 40 publications

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“…were optimising γ b to provide the best fit between field data and the parametric wave transformation model of Baldock et al [1998], which includes γ b as a free parameter, and a decreasing γ b was required to achieve sufficient energy dissipation in nearshore sandbar troughs. Very recently, van der Westhuysen [2010] applied the original wave transformation model of Battjes and Janssen [1978] and derived a new parameterization for γ b that also reduces in shallow water. It is worth noting that Janssen and Battjes [2007] and Alsina and Baldock [2007] recently modified the Baldock et al [1998] model to increase the rate of energy dissipation in shallow water.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Nearshore wave height variation in unsaturated surf

et al. 2010

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[1] The nearshore evolution of wave height is presented from field observations during unsaturated surf conditions from 10 different beaches characterized by microtidal conditions and predominantly swell-dominated wave climates. Wave evolution is presented in terms of wave height to water depth ratio (g) for comparison with previous data from saturated surf. Both conventional time-averaged (g rms ) and a new wave-bywave analysis (g w ) are performed. Values of g increase with increasing offshore wave height, indicating unsaturated surf. The observations show a variation in g values from near constant values in the mid surf zone to rapidly and asymptotically increasing g values in the inner surf zone. In contrast to previous data from saturated surf, g shows no dependence on either the absolute beach slope or the relative beach slope b/kh. The skewness of the distributions of g w is consistent with waves that are not depth limited. The inner surf zone wave heights are approximately equally dependent on the water depth and offshore wave height. The previous observations of g from saturated surf are shown to be consistent with a terminal bore height at the shoreline which is in excellent agreement with a previously derived value for the Miche parameter. In contrast, for the present unsaturated surf conditions, the terminal bore height at the shoreline can be approximated by H b ≈ 0.12H o , which is consistent with recent laboratory data sets.Citation: Power, H. E., M. G. Hughes, T. Aagaard, and T. E. Baldock (2010), Nearshore wave height variation in unsaturated surf,

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Nearshore wave height variation in unsaturated surf

et al. 2010

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“…It has been stressed by several authors [e.g., Miche , 1944; Stive , 1984; Svendsen , 1984] that the shallow water breaking limit γ is a function of the beach slope [e.g., van der Westhuysen , 2010] and of kh. Ruessink et al [2003] performed a careful analysis of depth‐induced breaking data and proposed the following parameterization for γ :

γ = 0.76 k h + 0.29

that allows significant improvements in the model results.…”

Section: Verificationmentioning

confidence: 99%

A unified spectral parameterization for wave breaking: From the deep ocean to the surf zone

Filipot¹,

Ardhuin²

2012

J. Geophys. Res.

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[1] A new wave-breaking dissipation parameterization designed for phase-averaged spectral wave models is presented. It combines wave breaking basic physical quantities, namely, the breaking probability and the dissipation rate per unit area. The energy lost by waves is first explicitly calculated in physical space before being distributed over the relevant spectral components. The transition from deep to shallow water is made possible by using a dissipation rate per unit area of breaking waves that varies with the wave height, wavelength and water depth. This parameterization is implemented in the WAVEWATCH III modeling framework, which is applied to a wide range of conditions and scales, from the global ocean to the beach scale. Wave height, peak and mean periods, and spectral data are validated using in situ and remote sensing data. Model errors are comparable to those of other specialized deep or shallow water parameterizations. This work shows that it is possible to have a seamless parameterization from the deep ocean to the surf zone.Citation: Filipot, J.-F., and F. Ardhuin (2012), A unified spectral parameterization for wave breaking: From the deep ocean to the surf zone,

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“…The SWAN computations have been carried out in stationary mode with SWAN version 40.72AB. Apart from the formulations suggested by Van der Westhuysen et al (2007) for wind generation and whitecapping and the bi-phase model for depth-induced breaking, developed by Van der Westhuysen (2009, 2010, the default settings are applied.…”

Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 99%

A Probabilistic Model for the Determination of Hydraulic Boundary Conditions in a Dynamic Coastal System

Groeneweg

Beckers

Gautier

2011

Int. Conf. Coastal. Eng.

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In 2011 new Hydraulic Boundary Conditions must be established for the statutory assessment of flood protection in the Wadden Sea area, which is a complex tidal system in the northern part of the Netherlands. The aim is to base these normative wave conditions on the wave simulation model SWAN and the probabilistic method Hydra-K, to be consistent with other systems as the Holland Coast and the Zeeland Delta. Assumptions made for the latter water systems, like steady state wind forcing, uniform water levels and neglect of currents, are not valid in the tidal basin of the Wadden Sea. A schematic temporal variation of both wind direction and wind speed is applied to define wind fields that drive the hydrodynamic computations. Both wind fields and resulting water level and current fields form the input of SWAN computations for a large number of combinations of basic wind speed and wind direction, offshore surge level and phase difference between tide and maximum wind speed. The result is a large database of SWAN results that is used as a lookup table in Hydra-K to transform the offshore statistics to the load on the primary sea defenses. In general the more advanced method leads to wave heights that are up to 10% lower and wave periods that are 10-20% smaller than those obtained with the method that is presently applied for the Holland Coast and the Zeeland Delta. These differences can be ascribed to the inclusion of currents and positive shoreward tilt in water level. The inclusion of relevant physics in the hydrodynamic computations increases the accuracy of the resulting HBC. Therefore, the more advanced method will be applied to determine the HBC for 2011.

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Modeling of depth‐induced wave breaking under finite depth wave growth conditions

Cited by 62 publications

References 40 publications

Nearshore wave height variation in unsaturated surf

Nearshore wave height variation in unsaturated surf

A unified spectral parameterization for wave breaking: From the deep ocean to the surf zone

A Probabilistic Model for the Determination of Hydraulic Boundary Conditions in a Dynamic Coastal System

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