New parameterizations for the spectral dissipation of wind-generated waves are proposed. The rates of dissipation have no predetermined spectral shapes and are functions of the wave spectrum, in a way consistent with observation of wave breaking and swell dissipation properties. Namely, swell dissipation is nonlinear and proportional to the swell steepness, and wave breaking only affects spectral components such that the non-dimensional spectrum exceeds the threshold at which waves are observed to start breaking. An additional source of short wave dissipation due to long wave breaking is introduced, together with a reduction of wind-wave generation term for short waves, otherwise taken from Janssen (J. Phys. Oceanogr. 1991). These parameterizations are combined and calibrated with the Discrete Interaction Approximation of Hasselmann et al. (J. Phys. Oceangr. 1985) for the nonlinear interactions. Parameters are adjusted to reproduce observed shapes of directional wave spectra, and the variability of spectral moments with wind speed and wave height. The wave energy balance is verified in a wide range of conditions and scales, from the global ocean to coastal settings. Wave height, peak and mean periods, and spectral data are validated using in situ and remote sensing data. Some systematic defects are still present, but the parameterizations probably yield the most accurate overall estimate of wave parameters to date. Perspectives for further improvement are also given.

[1] Breaking probabilities and breaking wave height distributions (BWHDs) in deep, intermediate, and shallow water depth are compared, and a generic parameterization is proposed to represent the observed variability of breaking parameters as a function of the nondimensional water depth. In intermediate and deep water, where waves of different scales may have markedly different breaking probabilities, a BWHD as a function of wave frequency is proposed and validated with intermediate-depth and deep water observational data. The current study focuses on waves with frequencies between 0.55 and 3.45 times the peak frequency f p . For the dominant frequency, the integration of the frequency-dependent BWHD provides a breaking probability that reproduces the known threshold-type behavior of the breaking probability for dominant waves. In shallow water, the present breaking statistics parameterization is consistent with other independent formulations validated by shallow water-breaking observations. Citation: Filipot, J.-F., F. Ardhuin, and A. V. Babanin (2010), A unified deep-to-shallow water wave-breaking probability parameterization,

Modelling three-dimensional wave-current-turbulence interactions in extreme tidal environments is still challenging and necessary for the development of the tidal industry, particularly for the dimensioning of tidal converters. Following this objective, we focus our study on the most energetic tidal site in Western Europe, the Alderney Race (France). Due to the strong tidal current at this location, wave-current interactions were poorly studied by the past and often neglected. We propose to assess how they impact the Alderney Race hydrodynamic by the use of numerical modelling and in-situ measurements. In this study, the following wave-current interactions were observed: (i) Stokes drift effects inducing an increase/decrease in the current depending on the angle between waves and current, with a maximum influence near the surface, (ii) wave enhancement of the bottom friction reducing the tidal current, (iii) refraction of waves by the current, generating changes in waves directions, and (iv) wave breaking ascribed to tidal current, increasing the turbulent mixing. A non-stationary time delay, varying within a same tidal cycle, was noted, which is reduced by including the local wind effects and by adjusting the bottom stress formulation. This study shows that wave-current interactions play a non-negligible role in Alderney Race although the strong tidal current and that they need to consider by the tidal industry.

Monitoring of dune erosion and accretion on the high-energy macrotidal Vougot beach in North Brittany (France) over the past decade (2004)(2005)(2006)(2007)(2008)(2009)(2010)(2011)(2012)(2013)(2014) has revealed significant morphological changes. Dune toe erosion/accretion records have been compared with extreme water level measurements, defined as the sum of (i) astronomic tide; (ii) storm surge; and (iii) vertical wave runup. Runup parameterization was conducted using swash limits, beach profiles, and hydrodynamic (Hm0, Tm0,-1, and high tide water level-HTWL) data sets OPEN ACCESS J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2015, 3 675 obtained from high frequency field surveys. The aim was to quantify in-situ environmental conditions and dimensional swash parameters for the best calibration of Battjes [1] runup formula. In addition, an empirical equation based on observed tidal water level and offshore wave height was produced to estimate extreme water levels over the whole period of dune morphological change monitoring. A good correlation between this empirical equation (1.01Hmoξo) and field runup measurements (Rmax) was obtained (R 2 85%). The goodness of fit given by the RMSE was about 0.29 m. A good relationship was noticed between dune erosion and high water levels when the water levels exceeded the dune foot elevation. In contrast, when extreme water levels were below the height of the toe of the dune sediment budget increased, inducing foredune recovery. These erosion and accretion phases may be related to the North Atlantic Oscillation Index.

Velocity measurements collected by an upward-looking acoustic Doppler current profiler were used to provide the first study of ambient turbulence in Alderney Race. Turbulence metrics were estimated at middepth during peak flooding and ebbing tidal conditions. The dissipation rate ε and the integral lengthscale (L) were estimated using two independent methods: the spectral method and the structure function method. The spectral method provided ε and (L) estimates with standard deviations twice lower than that obtained from the structure function method. Removal of wave and Doppler noise-induced bias when estimating the dissipation rate was shown to be a crucial step in turbulence characterization. It allowed for a significant refining in (L) estimates derived from the spectral and structure function methods of 35 and 20 respectively. The integral lengthscale was found to be 2-3 times the local water depth. It is considered that these findings could be valuable for current turbine designers, helping them optimizing their designs as well as improving loading prediction through the lifetime of the machines. Highlights ► The first study of ambient turbulence in Alderney Race is provided. ► Two independent methods are used to quantify turbulence metrics. ► Removal of wave and Doppler noise-induced bias is a crucial step. ► The integral lengthscale was found to be 2-3 times the local water depth. ► Unique dataset of turbulence metrics computed at mid-depth are provided.