Mechanism of action of a lipophilic derivative of salicylic acid on normal skin

Abstract

Salicylic acid, and more markedly its lipophilic derivative (LSA), appear to have a significative effect on the renewal of the living epidermis. This probably explains the cosmetic improvement of the skin obtained after a 1-month treatment with a cream containing this new molecule.

Histometric Assessment of the Age-Related Skin Response to 2-Hydroxy-5-Octanoyl Benzoic Acid

“…ß-LHA is expected to exert a superficial desquamating effect [4][5][6], which is reflected in the aged group of the present study. In addition, the topical 1% ß-LHA formulation stimulated a 10 and 12% average increase in epidermal cycling cells in aged and young subjects, respectively.…”

“…It displays a diverse array of direct and indirect biologic activities in the epidermis and superficial dermis. In particular, previous studies suggested a histologic and cosmetic improvement of ageing skin by ß-LHA [4][5][6]. The compound appears to modulate a great variety of cellular functions, such as changing desmosome integrity, affecting cell proliferation and differentiation, probably modulating the activity of some enzymes and the release of various mediators [6,7].…”

The use of hydroxy acids on the skin: characteristics of C8‐lipohydroxy acid

“…The daily application of creams containing 4% GA or other AHAs over several weeks has been found to accelerate normal desquamation of the stratum disjunctum and result in a more compact stratum corneum 5,6 . Similarly, creams containing 2% SA or C8‐LHA were found to enhance the shedding of corneocytes and reduce the thickness of the stratum corneum 7–10 …”

“…2) and therefore more closely mimics the physiologic process 4 . Examination of detached skin fragments has revealed that C8‐LHA treatment is more likely to result in the shedding of isolated intact corneosomes than does SA 9 …”

Phase behavior of beta hydroxy-acids with laureth 4

“…4 Studies of cosmetic an dermatological efficiency have demonstrated that a low level of salicylic acid is as effective as a middle level of AHAs, but causes less irritation and in addition has other dermatological benefits, such as working beneath the skin surface to prevent flareups of acne. 1,11 These obvious advantages have led to several investigations outlining some cosmetic and dermatological factors. 4,[12][13][14] These have provided valuable information for the application of beta acids, but have focused on the acid per se neglecting the role that the colloidal structure of the formulation; especially after evaporation, may have on its effect.…”