The reader will be introduced to the origins of skin colours and with basic principles of their measurements. Methods of colour reading are reviewed with particular insight into practical procedures, pitfalls and correct interpretation of data.

Sebaceous gland activity has four distinct components which are sebum production (a secretion rate function), storage (a volume function), surface output (a delivery rate function) and stratum corneum permeation (an influx rate function). The oily appearance of skin results from an excess of sebum excretion and spreading over the body surface and its interaction with the skin surface. A multi-pronged approach is often useful to assess skin greasiness with precision. The clinical evaluation of skin greasiness and its shiny appearance should be further complemented by quantifying the large pores, follicular plugs and comedones. The sebum amount present at the skin surface can be measured non-invasively using one of several methods based on solvent extraction, cigarette paper pads, photometric assessment, bentonite clay and lipid-sensitive tapes. Quantitative parameters include the sebum casual level, the sebum excretion rate, the sebum replacement time, the instant sebum delivery, the follicular excretion rate, the density in sebum-enriched reservoirs and the sustainable rate of sebum excretion. A series of environmental and biological features influence the data. Hence rigorous methodological designs are mandatory to support claims. As a rule, accuracy of the methods is adversely affected by skin temperature, degree of hydration and surface roughness. An additional confounding factor is the inherent difficulty of collecting the surface lipids without a contribution from the follicular reservoir. A better understanding of factors that alter the sebum amount at the skin surface may well assist in the development of sebosuppressive agents to help the reduction of the skin greasiness and improve acne.

A keratinolytic protease, secreted as the major component by a feline clinical isolate of Microsporum canis cultivated in a minimal medium containing cat keratin, was purified by affinity chromatography on bacitracin agarose and gel filtration. The apparent molecular mass of the enzyme was 31.5 kDa and the pI was 11.8. The enzyme was not glycosylated and its first 15 N-terminal amino acids showed numerous similarities with other fungal subtilisins. The optimum pH was around 9 while inactivation of the enzyme was reversible at pH 4, but not at pH 11. The enzyme was stable at 37 degrees C with an apparent optimum temperature around 55 degrees C. PMSF, soybean trypsin inhibitor (SBTI) and chymostatin strongly inhibited the proteinase. The highest affinity (Km of 0.37 mM) and physiological efficiency (k(cat)/Km) were obtained for the synthetic substrate N-Suc-Ala-Ala-Pro-Phe-p-nitroanilide. These results indicate that the keratinase belongs to the subtilisin-like serine protease family. Purified rabbit immunoglobulins G prepared against the keratinase and used in an immunohistochemical test allowed the detection of the keratinase produced by the fungus invading hair structures in naturally infected cats. The in vitro keratinolytic activity of the enzyme and its production in vivo suggest that it may contribute to pathogenicity.

Classical Ehlers-Danlos syndrome (EDS) is characterized by skin hyperelasticity, joint hypermobility, increased tendency to bruise, and abnormal scarring. Mutations in type V collagen, a regulator of type I collagen fibrillogenesis, have been shown to underlie this type of EDS. However, to date, mutations have been found in only a limited number of patients, which suggests genetic heterogeneity. In this article, we report two unrelated patients with typical features of classical EDS, including excessive skin fragility, in whom we found an identical arginine-->cysteine substitution in type I collagen, localized at position 134 of the alpha1(I) collagen chain. The arginine residue is highly conserved and localized in the X position of the Gly-X-Y triplet. As a consequence, intermolecular disulfide bridges are formed, resulting in type I collagen aggregates, which are retained in the cells. Whereas substitutions of glycine residues in type I collagen invariably result in osteogenesis imperfecta, substitutions of nonglycine residues in type I collagen have not yet been associated with a human disease. In contrast, arginine-->cysteine substitutions in type II collagen have been identified in a variety of chondrodysplasias. Our findings show that mutations in other fibrillar collagens can be causally involved in classical EDS and point to genetic heterogeneity of this disorder.

Skin colour typology depends on the amount and location of its chromophores. Among them, eumelanins derived from 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid (DHICA) and 5,6-dihydroxyindole (DHI), and phaeomelanins are of utmost importance. These biomolecules result from the multi-step enzymatic and non-enzymatic conversion of tyrosine into melanins. Pigmentation disorders are multiple and depend on alterations in the density in active melanocytes, and on specific abnormalities of any of the complex melanogenesis mechanisms. This review presents some of the main skin-lightening agents with respect to their mechanisms of action and side-effects. Some of the novel compounds may lead to new perspectives in the fields of dermatology and cosmetology. The methods commonly used to assess efficacy of skin-lightening products rely on in vitro models including cell-free enzymatic assays, melanocyte cultures and reconstructed epidermis bioassays. Animal models have little relevance. By contrast, human testing with the support of instrumental evaluations is the most informative.