Injury Prevention

Jones, Gareth; Ehiogu, Uzo Dimma; Johnson, Mark I.

doi:10.1007/978-3-030-72184-8_21

Cited by 2 publications

(5 citation statements)

References 88 publications

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“…Fewer overuse issues in our study may be caused by patient referral patterns or more definitive diagnoses. The role of warming up before climbing activities may reduce the incidence of overuse issues, 29,30,44,59,72 and it was noted that almost all climbers in our cohort appropriately warmed up and preferred the hanging finger position over the crimping hand position. It is known that the latter is associated with a higher risk of finger injuries.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 75%

Wrist Injuries in Climbers

Schöffl,

von Schroeder,

Lisse

et al. 2023

Am J Sports Med

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Background: Acute and chronic injuries to the wrist are among the most common sport-related complaints of climbing athletes but have not been extensively evaluated in this population. Therefore, it is important to categorize climbing injuries to the wrist, analyze risk factors, and assess treatment outcomes. Purpose: To evaluate the distribution, outcomes, and influencing factors of wrist injuries in climbers. Study Design: Case series; Level of evidence, 4. Methods: Climbing athletes with wrist injuries who presented to our specialized sports medical center over the course of 4 years (2017-2020) were selected. All had prospectively completed questionnaires including their climbing-specific background (years of training, climbing level, training methods, etc). Injuries were analyzed (International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation [UIAA] grade and diagnosis), and treatment methods and outcomes were retrospectively assessed with a minimum follow-up of 2 years. Parameters included the climbing score, visual analog scale for pain score, Patient-Rated Wrist Evaluation (PRWE) score, and shortened version of the Disabilities of the Arm, Shoulder and Hand (QuickDASH) score including the sport component (DASH–Sport) score before and after treatment as well as time to return to climbing. Results: A total of 69 patients (25 female, 44 male) with 78 wrist injuries were identified and analyzed. Of these, 7 injuries were bilateral, occurring at the same time, and 2 injuries were independent reinjuries to either the same or the contralateral side. In addition, 24 injuries (30.8%) were acute, while 54 (69.2%) were chronic. Overall, 2 injuries had a UIAA grade of 3; all others had a UIAA grade of 2. The most frequent injuries were synovitis of the ulnocarpal recess, ulnar impaction, bone marrow edema of the lunate, wrist sprains (joint capsular pain with stress, with no pathological finding on magnetic resonance imaging), and wrist ganglion cysts. Nonoperative treatment was performed for 61 of the injuries, while 17 were treated surgically. In 51 cases (65.4%), injuries healed without consequences; in 27 cases (34.6%), discomfort remained. The visual analog scale pain score decreased from 4.8 ± 1.9 before treatment to 0.7 ± 1.0 after treatment ( P < .001), the PRWE score decreased from 53.6 ± 24.9 to 10.3 ± 13.1 ( P < .001), the QuickDASH score improved from 53.0 ± 16.6 to 20.0 ± 20.2 ( P < .001), and the DASH–Sport score improved from 82.0 ± 16.1 to 38.1 ± 23.5 ( P < .001). The climbing score improved from 2.5 ± 1.1 to 4.3 ± 1.0 points ( P < .001). The patient-reported number of days with pain was negatively correlated with changes in the PRWE score ( r = −0.351; P < .001), QuickDASH score ( r = −0.316; P = .007), and climbing score ( r = −0.264; P = .025) as well as the number of days without climbing ( r = −0.266; P = .025). The number of days without climbing was positively correlated with changes in the PRWE score ( r = 0.369; P < .001). Conclusion: Wrist injuries in climbers constituted a diverse set of diagnoses. Ulnar-sided injuries were most common, and many patients had >1 diagnosis. Outcomes for all treatment methods (surgery and nonoperative care) were favorable, but approximately one-third of climbers had persistent wrist discomfort after treatment, underscoring the need for accurate diagnoses and acute and expert care.

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 75%

Wrist Injuries in Climbers

Schöffl,

von Schroeder,

Lisse

et al. 2023

Am J Sports Med

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“…Comparing our study results with other climbing studies is complicated by different study designs and therefore limited 27 . In addition, the use of different terms to correctly identify and attribute an injury mechanism makes it harder to draw conclusions from the outcome of other studies.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 87%

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Jones et al pointed to the importance of an awareness of the climber for his or her own body 27 . Particularly physical preparation is a cornerstone of performance and injury prevention 27 . Also Paine and Voight 28 emphasize the importance of scapular stabilization for professional athletes from a physical therapy point of view.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…In the present study we only differentiated between acute and chronic injuries. Jones et al 27 instead propose that classification systems need to clearly differentiate between acute impact injuries, acute non-impact injuries and chronic overuse injuries to make interpretations easier.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Evaluation of a four-week Adjunct Compensatory Training for the treatment of climbing-specific overstrain syndromes of the shoulder

Grohnert

Bonato

Schöffl

2022

Sportverletz Sportschaden

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Background Although climbing is an increasingly popular sport, there is a lack of scientific evaluation of suitable training methods for climbers, especially with a view to prevention and rehabilitation. A specific rehabilitation program, Adjunct Compensatory Training (ACT), has recently been presented, but it has not been evaluated scientifically to date. Objective To investigate the effects of Adjunct Compensatory Training on climbing-specific overstrain syndromes of the shoulder. Methods Twenty active boulderers and climbers with an average age of 28.9 (± 7.4) years performed a guided shoulder program of six specific exercises from the ACT program over a period of four weeks. They were examined before and after the intervention. Pre- and post-interventional measurements included the Constant-Murley Score, the QuickDASH Score and the measurement of shoulder ROM (range of motion). Results The Constant-Murley Score increased from 82 (± 10.0) to 104.1 (± 8.2) at follow-up (p < 0.001). The VAS value for bouldering and climbing decreased from 5.25 (± 1.4) before to 2.4 (± 1.6) after the intervention (p < 0.001). Shoulder flexion increased from 167.5 (± 14.9) to 173.1 (± 7.7) after the intervention (p < 0.05), abduction from 172.5 (± 14.9) to 179.6 (± 5.9) (n. s.), external rotation from neutral zero position from 77.6 (± 16.8) to 86.3 ± (8.3) (p < 0.05). Feasibility and acceptance of the intervention were good. Ninety-five percent of the participants continued to exercise, and 100 percent recommended the program to others. Conclusion The ACT led to an improvement in pain, activities of daily living, range of motion and strength in boulderers and climbers with overstrain symptoms of the shoulder. It is also classified as a realistically feasible workout. The extent to which this effect will continue, and whether or not the program can prevent injuries, remains to be seen. It can only be presumed that regular exercises prevent shoulder injuries in the climbing population.

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Injury Prevention

Cited by 2 publications

References 88 publications

Wrist Injuries in Climbers

Wrist Injuries in Climbers

Evaluation of a four-week Adjunct Compensatory Training for the treatment of climbing-specific overstrain syndromes of the shoulder

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