Influence of Brazilian vegetable oils on mechanical resistence of hair fiber

Abstract

Biopharmaceutical Sciences│Ciências BiofarmacêuticasBiomed Biopharm Res. , 2015; (12) 1: , 99-106 99 Biomedical and Biopharmaceutical Research J o r n a l d e I n v e s t i g a ç ã o B i o m é d i c a e B i o f a r m a c ê u t i c a Influence of Brazilian vegetable oils on mechanical resistence of hair fiber Influência de óleos vegetais brasileiros na resistência mecânica da fibra capilar AbstractAssociating the global trend of incorporating active compounds and plants in cosmetic formulations and the vast Brazilian biodiversity, the present work aimed to study the incorporation of Brazilian vegetable oils in hair conditioner formulations, evaluating the mechanical resistance of hair fibers. The following oils were incorporated into base formulations at 5.0 % (w/w): babassu, buriti, andiroba and pequi. The formulations were applied to samples of Caucasian hair, followed by several washing steps, then the evaluation of mechanical strength. It was found that there was no statistically significant difference in mechanical resistance between samples treated with oils and the control between the first and seventh wash cycles. This fact can be explained by the possible low penetration of oils into the cortex, a region responsible for the mechanical properties of the hair fiber, since the grease composition disfavors its diffusion. The common effects of vegetable oils on the cuticle, such as filling in cracks or cavities, lubrication, and increased protein hydrophobicity cannot be excluded. The oils tested in this work were not able to raise or protect hair tresses. However, additional studies are required in order to establish the effects of oil treatments, particularly in damaged hair. Keywords: hair, emulsion, vegetable oils, mechanical properties ResumoAssociando a tendência global de incorporar ingredientes ativos derivados de plantas em formulações cosméticas e da enorme biodiversidade brasileira, o presente trabalho teve como objetivo estudar a incorporação de óleos vegetais brasileiros em condicionadores capilares, avaliando-se seu efeito na resistência mecânica da fibra do cabelo. Os seguintes óleos foram incorporados a uma formulação base a 5,0 % (p/p): babaçu, buriti, andiroba e pequi. As formulações foram aplicadas a mechas de cabelo Caucasiano, seguido de um procedimento de lavagem, sendo resistência mecânica posteriormente avaliada. Verificou-se que não havia nenhuma diferença estatisticamente significativa na resistência mecânica entre as mechas tratadas com os diferentes óleos e o controle entre o primeiro e o sétimo ciclos de lavagem. Este fato pode ser explicado pela baixa penetração dos óleos no córtex, uma região responsável pelas propriedades mecânicas da fibra capilar, uma vez que sua composição desfavorece a difusão. Os efeitos comuns de óleos vegetais na cutícula, como preencher fendas ou cavidades, lubrificação e aumentar a hidrofobicidade não pode ser excluída. Portanto, os óleos testados neste trabalho não foram capazes de aumentar ou proteger as mechas de cabelo nas condições experimenta...

In Vitro Methodologies to Evaluate the Effects of Hair Care Products on Hair Fiber

“…Maintaining the value of the constant force applied, the fibers stretch proportionally to the load until rupture occurs [59,60]. The lower the value of the breaking strength, the more damaged is inflicted on the cortex [12,16].…”

“…Hair strands are fixed on a support, oriented from root to tip; the device applies a force or load to disrupt the fibers, which is registered by software, converting the information into a load graph of elongation [12,14,16,61].…”

“…Straightening and bleaching alter the resistance to breakage and tensile properties of human hair [12,62], while conditioner does not interfere with the test results [14,16].…”

“…Protein loss [11,12,[44][45][46][47][48]; Electrophoresis [13,25]; Scanning Electron Microscopy [5,[19][20][21][22]; Transmission Electron Microscopy [6,24,25]; Atomic Force Microscopy [7,26,[28][29][30][31]; Optical Coherence Tomography [8,33]; RAMAN spectroscopy [10,[32][33][34] Hair Shine-Gloss Diffuse reflectance spectrophotometry [14,33,43,46,50] Easy to comb Combing resistance [12,64,65] Strength properties Resistance to breakage [12,14,16,33,61,62] Photoprotection Photoluminescence spectroscopy [40][41][42][43] Long-lasting color Diffuse reflectance spectrophotometry [14,…”

“…Properties and effects of cosmetic products on hair fiber can be assessed through many methods, such as Scanning Electron Microscopy [5], Transmission Electron Microscopy [6], Atomic Force Microscopy [7], Optical Coherence Tomography [8], Infrared Spectroscopy [9], Raman Spectroscopy [10], Protein Loss [11,12], Electrophoresis [13], color and brightness [14], Thermal Analysis [15] and measuring mechanical resistance against combing and elasticity [12,16].…”