No abstract

Our results indicate that the choline-based ILs were effective functional ingredients, since, when used at nontoxic concentrations, they allowed a higher drug loading, while maintaining the stability of the formulations.

The hair thread is a natural fiber formed by keratin, a protein containing high concentration of sulfur coming from the amino acid cystine. The main physical proprieties of the hair depend mostly on its geometry; the physical and mechanical properties of hair involve characteristics to improve: elasticity, smoothness, volume, shine, and softness due to both the significant adherence of the cuticle scales and the movement control (malleability), as well as the easiness of combing, since they reduce the fibers static electricity. The evaluation of these effects on hair may be carried out by several methods, as: optical and electron microscopy, mechanical resistance measuring, shine evaluation and optical coherence tomography (OCT).Uniterms: Hair/properties/evaluation. Hair fibers/properties/evaluation. Hair fibers/characteristics. Optical coherence tomography/analytical application. Optical microscopy/analytical application. Electron microscopy/analytical application O cabelo é uma fibra natural formada por queratina, uma proteína composta por teor elevado de enxofre proveniente da cistina. As propriedades principais do cabelo dependem de sua geometria, estrutura física. Características físicas e mecânicas das fibras capilares envolvem propriedades que melhoram: elasticidade, maciez, volume, maleabilidade, facilidade para o ato de pentear e brilho. A avaliação de tais propriedades do cabelo pode ser obtida por métodos diversos, como: microscopia óptica e eletrônica, mensuração da resistência mecânica, determinação do brilho e tomografia por coerência óptica (OCT).Unitermos: Cabelo/propriedades/avaliação. Fibras capilares/propriedades/avaliação. Fibras capilares/ características. Tomografia por coerência óptica/aplicação analítica. Microscopia óptica/aplicação analítica. Microscopia eletrônica/aplicação analítica.

No abstract

Hair color change by dye application is a common procedure among women. Hair dyes are classified, according to color resistance, into temporary, semipermanent, demipermanent and permanent. The first two are based on molecules which are already colored. Temporary dyes act through dye deposition on cuticles, but semipermanent may penetrate a little into the cortex and so the color resists up to six washes. Demipermanent and permanent dyes are based on color precursors, called oxidation dyes, and the final shade is developed by their interactions with an oxidizing agent, but they differ from the alkalizing agent used. In oxidation systems, there is an intense diffusion of the molecules into the cortex, what promotes a longer color resistance. Dyes and color precursors present differences related to chromophore groups, hair fiber affinity, water solubility, and photo stability. The aim of this review is to discuss the differences among hair dye products available in the market and their action mechanisms, molecular structures, application methods, and some aspects of formulations.

Ultraviolet radiation can damage the DNA, cause immunosuppression, chemical and histological alterations in the epidermis, early photoaging, cataracts and carcinogenesis, among others. Photoprotection prevents these and other harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation. Sunscreens, protective clothing, proper accessories and safe sun exposure are essential photoprotection tools. The main forms of photoprotection are presented and discussed in this article, including sunscreens containing organic and inorganic filters, the assessment of their efficacy and current developments on the topic. Keywords: Protection; Radiation protection; Solar radiation; Sunscreening agents; Ultraviolet filters Resumo: A radiação ultravioleta pode provocar danos ao DNA, imunossupressão, alterações químicas e histológicas na epiderme, envelhecimento precoce, cataratas e carcinogênese, dentre outras deteriorações. A fotoproteção previne estes e outros efeitos danosos da radiação ultravioleta. Protetores solares, vestimentas, acessórios adequados e exposição segura ao sol são ferramentas essenciais da fotoproteção. Neste artigo, são apresentadas e discutidas as principais formas de fotoproteção, incluindo os protetores solares com filtros inorgânicos e orgânicos, a avaliação da eficácia dos mesmos e atualizações envolvendo o tema.

The development of effective forms to incorporate poorly soluble drugs into delivery systems remains a problem. Thus, it is important to find alternatives such as finding excipients that increase drug solubility. Ionic liquids (ILs), particularly choline-based ILs, have been studied as solubility enhancers in drug delivery systems. Nonetheless, to acknowledge this property as a functionality, it needs to be proven at non-toxic concentrations. Hence, herein two choline-amino acid ILs were studied as functional excipients by evaluating their influence on the solubility of the poorly water-soluble ferulic acid and rutin, while considering their safety. The solubility of the drugs was always higher in the presence of the ILs than in water. Ionic liquids did not affect the radical scavenging activity of the drugs or the cell viability. Moreover, stable oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions were prepared containing each drug and the ILs, allowing a significantly higher drug loading. Globally, our results suggest that choline-based ILs may act as green functional excipients, since at non-toxic concentrations they considerably improve drug solubility/loading, without influencing the antioxidant activity of the drugs, the cell viability, or the stability of the formulations.

Peel off facial masks, based on polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), are formulations that, after application and drying, form an occlusive film over the face. After removing, they provide cleanness, tensor and moisturizing effects, removing dead cells, residues and other materials deposited on the stratum corneous. The soybean extract fermented by Bifidobacterium animalis has sugars, amino acids, peptides, proteins and free isoflavonoids in high concentrations, when compared to the unfermented extract, providing benefits to the cosmetic formulations like anti-aging effect, moisture, tensor action and emollience. The cosmetic bases of peel off facial masks, added with 5.0% w/w of fermented soybean extract, were submitted to Preliminary and Accelerated Stability Studies. Eight (8) preparations were evaluated in several conditions of temperature (-10.0, 5.0, 22.0 and 45.0 ºC) and time (maximum of 15 days), comparing the results with the initial condition (48 h after preparation). The variables observed were: organoleptic characteristics, pH and appearing viscosity value and film drying time. The preparation containing 17.0% w/w of PVA and 0.5% w/w of guar gum was selected between the eight preparations initially prepared, because it presented the best performance in the stability test, being recommended storage at low temperatures (5.0 ºC). Uniterms:Cosmetic formulations/physical and physicochemical stability. Facial mask peel off. Polyvinyl alcohol. Soybean extract. Bifidobacterium animalis/fermentation.As máscaras faciais peel off a base de álcool polivinílico (PVA) são formulações que, após a aplicação e secagem, formam um filme oclusivo sobre a face e, após sua remoção, conferem limpeza, ação tensora e hidratação à pele, retirando células mortas do estrato córneo, resíduos e outros materiais depositados. O extrato de soja fermentado por Bifidobacterium animalis possui açúcares, aminoácidos, peptídeos, e alto teor de isoflavonas na forma livre, quando comparado ao leite não fermentado, propiciando benefícios às formulações cosméticas, como ação antienvelhecimento, hidratação, efeito tensor e emoliência. As bases cosméticas de máscaras faciais peel off, acrescidas de extrato de soja fermentado 5,0% p/p, foram submetidas aos ensaios de Estabilidade Preliminar e Acelerada, avaliando-se 8 preparações em diversas condições de temperatura (-10,0; 5,0; 22,0 e 45,0 ºC) e tempo (máximo de 15 dias), em relação à condição inicial (48 h após o preparo). As variáveis observadas envolveram: características organolépticas, valor de pH, viscosidade aparente e tempo de secagem do filme. A preparação contendo 17,0% p/p de PVA e 0,5% p/p de goma guar foi a selecionada dentre as oito preparações elaboradas inicialmente, por ter apresentado melhor desempenho no teste de estabilidade, sendo recomendado o armazenamento em temperatura reduzida (5,0 ºC).Unitermos: Formulações cosméticas/estabilidade física e físico-química. Máscara facial peel off. Álcool polivinílico. Extrato de soja. Bifidobacterium animalis/fermentação.