In vitro techniques to assess the proficiency of skin care cosmetic formulations

Roy, Amit; Sahu, Ram Kumar; Matlam, Munglu; Deshmukh, Vinay Kumar; Dwivedi, Jaya; Jha, Arvind Kumar

doi:10.4103/0973-7847.120507

Cited by 30 publications

(9 citation statements)

References 88 publications

(85 reference statements)

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“…When the human skin is overexposed to UV radiation, it induces the Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) production and subsequently generates oxidative stress. Consequently, these oxidative stress can lead to skin disorders such as hyperpigmentation (dark spots), premature aging and dryness [2,3]. ROS accumulation enhances the activity of tyrosinase which results in abnormal production of melanin, a pigment responsible for skin color.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Comparative study on skin protection activity of polyphenol-rich extract and polysaccharide-rich extract from Sargassum vachellianum

Jesumani

Pei

et al. 2020

PLoS ONE

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Seaweed polyphenols and polysaccharide plays a broad range of biological activity. The objective of the present study was to study and compare the skin protection activity of fucoidan rich polysaccharide extract (SPS) and polyphenol-rich extract (SPP) from the seaweed Sargassum vachellianum. The skin protection activity was analyzed based on their ability to scavenge free radicals such as hydrogen peroxide and hydroxyl radicals, UV absorption potential, tyrosinase inhibition, moisture preservation, and antibacterial activity. From the results, both SPP and SPS protects the skin from UV damage. SPP showed good free radical scavenging ability, antimicrobial activity against E.coli and S. aureus and effectively absorbed the UVB and UVA rays whereas SPS hardly absorbs the UVA and UVB rays and showed weak free radical scavenging ability and no antimicrobial activity. SPS showed considerable inhibition on tyrosinase (51.21%) and had better moisture absorption (52.1%) and retention (63.24%) abilities than SPP. The results specified that both SPS and SPP have balancing potential on skin protection and suitable combinations of both could act as an active ingredient in cosmetics.calculating skin-lightening activity. In addition, Melanogenesis is described to result in the generation of free radicals like hydrogen peroxide in the melanocytes which again result in oxidative stress. Therefore ROS plays a significant role in the regulation of melanin synthesis and so ROS scavengers help in reduce the UV-induced melanogenesis [5]. Hyperpigmentation can be reduced by free radical scavengers and tyrosinase inhibitors that suppress melanogenesis in the skin [6]. Moisture absorption and retention capacity of the skin is getting disturbed due to age factor and exposure to environmental stress. Once the moisture in the skin is reduced, then the skin will become dry with wrinkles which also results in premature aging. Retaining moisture in the skin is also another important function of the skincare products. Compound that is rich in antioxidant activity associated with anti-tyrosinase and moisture-preserving properties and also has the ability to block the UV rays plays an important role in skin whitening and sunscreen products.Many synthetic chemicals like arbutin, hydroquinone and kojic acid are being used as tyrosinase inhibitors in skin whitening product, but it was testified to side effect like dermatitis, genotoxicity and also induce cancer. Hence, the exploration of an effective skin care agent is still continuing in cosmetic research. In recent years, natural products have become more attractive in the cosmetic industry due to no side effects. The sea harbors a natural compound that is promising to act as biologically active metabolites. Marine algae are highly studied for their potent antioxidant capability [7,8,9,10]. The seaweed bioactive compound can play a vital role in skincare formulation because of its antioxidant properties. The active compound protects the skin in several ways, which includes scavenging the ROS, supp...

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Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Comparative study on skin protection activity of polyphenol-rich extract and polysaccharide-rich extract from Sargassum vachellianum

Jesumani

Pei

et al. 2020

PLoS ONE

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“…The type I collagen helps in the maintenance of the skin dermis structure. [ 5 17 ] Aging and irradiation accelerate the degradation of the ECM, resulting in a decrease in dermal collagen and an increase in the level of the matrix MMP-1, which cleaves interstitial collagen leads the skin appear to be aged. [ 5 18 19 20 ] The presented research results show that exposure of human skin fibroblast to UVA exposure is less harmful on collagen formation when 0.1% AO concentration is used.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…The SPF label is the indicator only for a protection against erythemally-effective solar UV, largely confined to the UVB, and partially short-wavelength UVA radiation. [ 5 ] There is a continuous need of quantitative determination of different parameters, such as SPF, protection against UV radiations, to support the efficacy and safety of the products. [ 5 15 ]…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…The UV generation of ROS and reactive nitrogen species can outcome in the structural and functional alteration of cutaneous proteins, for example, collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycans, which may contribute to photoaging. [ 5 ] It has been postulated that UVA upregulates the formation of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), enzymes that degrade the matrix protein's elastin and collagen. Degradation in these proteins can result in marked reduction in skin elasticity and increased wrinkling.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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The possible pre -and post -UVA radiation protective effect of amaranth oil on human skin fibroblast cells

Wołosik¹,

Zaręba²,

Surażyński³

et al. 2017

Phcog Mag

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Background:The health effects of Amaranth Oil (AO) are attributed to its specific chemical composition. That makes it an outstanding natural product for the prevention and treatment of ultraviolet (UV) irradiation-related pathologies such as sunburn, photoaging, photoimmunosuppression, and photocarcinogenesis. Most of the studies are taken on animal model, and there is a lack of research on the endogenous effect of AO on fibroblast level, where UVA takes it harmful place.Objective:The aim of this study was evaluation if AO can protect or abolish UVA exposure effect on human skin fibroblast.Materials and Methods:The 0.1% AO, 0.25% AO, and 0.5% AO concentration and irradiation for 15 min under UVA-emitting lamp were studied in various condition. In all experiments, the mean values for six assays ± standard deviations were calculated.Results:Pretreatment with various concentrations of AO was tested. The highest concentration of AO where cell survival was observed was 0.5%. Cytotoxicity assays provided evidence for pre- and post-UVA protective effect of 0.1% AO among three tested concentrations. The results also provide evidence that UVA has inhibitory effect on collagen biosynthesis in confluent skin fibroblast, but presence of 0.1% AO abolishes pre- and post-UVA effect comparing to other used AO concentration. The assessment results on DNA biosynthesis show the significant abolished post-UVA effect when 0.1% and 0.5% of AO were added.Conclusion:AO gives pre- and post-UVA protection in low concentration. This provides the evidence for using it not as a main protective factor against UV but as one of the combined components in cosmetic formulation.SUMMARY The recommended Amaranth Oil (AO) concentration in cosmetic formulation is between 0.1 and 5%Pretreatment with various concentrations of AO suggests to use the highest 0.5% concentration of AO in human skin fibroblast culturesThe 0.1% of AO in fibroblast cultures, protects and abolishes effect of ultraviolet A (UVA) exposureUVA has inhibitory effect on collagen biosynthesis in skin fibroblast, but presence of 0.1% AO abolishes pre- and post-UVA effectThe abolished post-UVA effect occurs when 0.1% and 0.5% of AO were added on DNA biosynthesis. Abbreviations used: AO: Amaranth Oil.

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“…The fibrous molecule of collagen is responsible for skin tensile strength and firmness, and constitutes therefore one of the structural units of the extracellular matrix. Collagenases are enzymes that cleave the collagen molecule within its helical region and that are more generally involved in the degradation of extracellular matrix components, thus leading to skin wrinkling [ 26 ]. The assays are performed as follows: 150 µL of a solution of collagenase prepared at a concentration of 53 U/mL in tricine buffer (pH = 7.5) are distributed in each well, together with 7.5 µL of essential oil.…”

Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Vetiver Essential Oil in Cosmetics: What Is New?

Burger

Landreau

Watson³

et al. 2017

Medicines

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Background: Vetiver is a key ingredient for the perfume industry nowadays. However, with the constant and rapid changes of personal tastes, this appeal could vanish and this sector could decline quite quickly. New dissemination paths need to be found to tap this valuable resource. Methods: In this way, its potential use in cosmetics either as an active ingredient per se (with cosmeceutical significance or presenting antimicrobial activity) has hence been explored in vitro. Results: In this contribution, we demonstrated that vetiver essential oil displays no particularly significant and innovative cosmetic potential value in formulations apart from its scent already largely exploited. However, evaluated against twenty bacterial strains and two Candida species using the in vitro microbroth dilution method, vetiver oil demonstrated notably some outstanding activities against Gram-positive strains and against one Candida glabrata strain. Conclusions: Based on these findings, vetiver essential oil appears to be an appropriate aspirant for the development of an antimicrobial agent for medicinal purposes and for the development of a cosmetic ingredient used for its scent and displaying antimicrobial activity as an added value.

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In vitro techniques to assess the proficiency of skin care cosmetic formulations

Cited by 30 publications

References 88 publications

Comparative study on skin protection activity of polyphenol-rich extract and polysaccharide-rich extract from Sargassum vachellianum

Comparative study on skin protection activity of polyphenol-rich extract and polysaccharide-rich extract from Sargassum vachellianum

The possible pre -and post -UVA radiation protective effect of amaranth oil on human skin fibroblast cells

Vetiver Essential Oil in Cosmetics: What Is New?

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