Fifty years of research and development of cosmeceuticals: a contemporary review

Abstract

Facial rejuvenation can be categorized into skincare and facial contouring. Research and development of cosmeceuticals is aimed at addressing the major signs of photoaging: wrinkles, dyschromia, and sallowness. Assessment of photoaging comes in clinical and photographic forms; a photonumeric scale developed by Griffiths et al. has been assured of its validity and reliability for the assessment of severity of photoaging in qualitative studies. Treatment of photoaging comes in two categories: preventive and reversal of signs; whilst sunfactors are the most efficient and essential in preventing photodamage, research and development of cosmeceuticals for facial rejuvenation has been robust, thanks to several landmark studies in the last fifty years, funded by some of the forerunners in contemporary cosmetic industry. Stem cell research remains the current forerunner in research concerning cosmeceuticals. Nevertheless, high-quality, randomized control trials remain scarce within the contemporary literature, and more research and trials without funding by the industry are required to give rise to impartial comparisons between various cosmeceutical products. The "perfect cream" for facial rejuvenation remains elusive.

The biology of ergothioneine, an antioxidant nutraceutical

“…Just as processed foodstuffs 'age', so do tissues such as the skin, and although the same principles apply (540) , it is common to refer to nutraceuticals that are also aimed at having cosmetic benefits as 'cosmeceuticals' (541)(542)(543) . Here too, ERG has been widely used (543)(544)(545)(546)(547) , since much skin damage is caused by UV-mediated reactive oxygen species production (548) ; indeed, ERG is known as a skin protectant (240)(241)(242)(243)(244)(549)(550)(551) .…”

Dermal Histology in Mouse Skin Exposed to Cosmeceuticals

“…Critical scientifically tested experiments should be encouraged about many of these compounds before incorporation into clinical practice since they can affect structure and function of many important skin elements. 34,35 The present report is an exploration of the dermal histopathological response of some popular over-the-counter cosmeceuticals, and it has revealed some interesting differences in their efficacy. These baseline data will be helpful for future comparative studies on these products in suitably photoaged skin specimens.…”

Development of Multifunctional Cosmetic Cream Using Bioactive Materials from Streptomyces sp. T65 with Synthesized Mesoporous Silica Particles SBA-15

“…Over-produced melanin should be controlled to maintain the skin integrity. That is why the discovery of novel tyrosinase inhibitors for the development of cosmeceutical formulations has received a significant interest [23][24][25].…”

“…There are numerous studies on bioactive materials isolated from plants that are currently used in cosmeceutical formulations, but very few studies on bioactive materials from bacteria are available [9,21,[24][25][26][27]31]. This study aimed to evaluate the cosmeceutical potential of ethyl acetate extracts from the bacterial strain Streptomyces sp.…”