Features of Conventional Static and New Dynamic Drape Coefficients of Woven Silk Fabrics

Matsudaira, Mitsuo; Yang, Minzhang

doi:10.1177/004051750307300309

Cited by 11 publications

(11 citation statements)

References 20 publications

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“…Differences between the fabrics tested became clearer by using a function of the combination of these five parameters produced by discriminate analysis [82].…”

Section: Dynamic Drape Parametersmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Fabric objective measurement and drape

Sanad

Cassidy

2015

Textile Progress

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“…Differences between the fabrics tested became clearer by using a function of the combination of these five parameters produced by discriminate analysis [82].…”

Section: Dynamic Drape Parametersmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…These equations were applied in several further studies investigating drape in terms of studying different features of fabrics [57,[80][81][82][83] and the effect of finishing on fabric drape behaviour [92,110].…”

Section: DCmentioning

confidence: 99%

Fabric objective measurement and drape

Sanad

Cassidy

2015

Textile Progress

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“…The chirimen silk fabric is characterized by its large drape coefficient compared with crepe de Chine and Georgette crepe fabrics [7], owing to the large crepe structure in the chirimen fabrics. The mechanical properties and handle of chirimen fabrics have also been compared with those of suiting fabrics by using KES-FB [8].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Silhouette and Handle Design of Silk Chirimen Fabrics for Women^|^prime;s Thin Dress Based on the Mechanical Properties

2013

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The purpose of this paper is to establish a basis for silhouette and handle design of traditional Japanese silk chirimen fabrics for Western-style women's thin dresses. We collected 10 chirimen kimono fabrics with different crepe structures to clarify the fabric characteristics. The mechanical and surface properties of the fabrics were measured by using the KES-FB system. The primary hand values of chirimen fabrics were obtained by an objective evaluation method developed by Kawabata. Silhouette formability was investigated by using the silhouette classification equation with fabric mechanical data. The tactile feel of chirimen fabrics was assessed by 60 female students.Large values for the mean deviation of the coefficient of friction (MMD) and compression linearity (LC) were observed in chirimen fabrics as compared with women' s thin dresses (n＝120). In terms of the primary hand values, high Koshi and low Shinayakasa were identified as distinctive features of the chirimen fabrics. Applying the silhouette type for Western-style garments, the chirimen fabrics can form drape-type or hari (anti-drape) -type silhouettes. The subjective hand values of softness, smoothness, and preference with regard to chirimen fabrics were closely related to the small value of thickness (T0), which can be used as a key parameter for the design of chirimen fabric.

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“…Matsudaira et al (2008) have investigated the dependency of dynamic drapability of polyester fabrics on yarn and fabric constructions. Matsudaira et al (2000Matsudaira et al ( , 2002Matsudaira et al ( & 2003 have studied the dynamic drape behaviour of polyester-fibre "Shingosen" fabrics and silk fabrics.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Improved Discrimination and Prediction of Drapability of Fabrics

Tandon¹,

Matsudaira

2010

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel

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A garment is regarded as desirable and beautiful if it covers the body with harmony and gracefulness. High drape, lightweight and soft handle fabrics are in demand, particularly for womenswear garments such as dresses, shirts, skirts, trousers and suits. Fabric drapability can be measured by a number of drapemeters for different modes of drapability such as static, dynamic and revolving. It has been shown that the drape coefficients, Ds , Dd and Dr , associated with these respective modes of drapability can be predicted from a combination of measurements from the KES-F system (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics). In this paper we present the results of our studies on the prediction of drapability of lightweight wool fabrics, based on the KES-F system and drape coefficient predictive equations. It has been shown that the parameters Dr/Ds and Dd/Ds , called Indices of Drape Fluidity, Ir and Id , express the fluid drape behaviour better than Ds , Dr , D200 and Dd . This is because they discriminate and predict the drapability of fabrics better. Ir and Id have higher CV% than the Dr and Dd data, and therefore represent greater relative dispersion in a fabric group for drape. Various drape parameters of a group of wool fabrics have been compared with the four groups of polyester Shingosen fabrics, namely, New Silky, New Worsted, Rayon Touch and Peach Face, which are recognised for their soft fluid drape.

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Features of Conventional Static and New Dynamic Drape Coefficients of Woven Silk Fabrics

Cited by 11 publications

References 20 publications

Fabric objective measurement and drape

Fabric objective measurement and drape

Silhouette and Handle Design of Silk Chirimen Fabrics for Women^|^prime;s Thin Dress Based on the Mechanical Properties

Improved Discrimination and Prediction of Drapability of Fabrics

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