Improved Discrimination and Prediction of Drapability of Fabrics

Abstract

A garment is regarded as desirable and beautiful if it covers the body with harmony and gracefulness. High drape, lightweight and soft handle fabrics are in demand, particularly for womenswear garments such as dresses, shirts, skirts, trousers and suits. Fabric drapability can be measured by a number of drapemeters for different modes of drapability such as static, dynamic and revolving. It has been shown that the drape coefficients, Ds , Dd and Dr , associated with these respective modes of drapability can be predicted from a combination of measurements from the KES-F system (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics). In this paper we present the results of our studies on the prediction of drapability of lightweight wool fabrics, based on the KES-F system and drape coefficient predictive equations. It has been shown that the parameters Dr/Ds and Dd/Ds , called Indices of Drape Fluidity, Ir and Id , express the fluid drape behaviour better than Ds , Dr , D200 and Dd . This is because they discriminate and predict the drapability of fabrics better. Ir and Id have higher CV% than the Dr and Dd data, and therefore represent greater relative dispersion in a fabric group for drape. Various drape parameters of a group of wool fabrics have been compared with the four groups of polyester Shingosen fabrics, namely, New Silky, New Worsted, Rayon Touch and Peach Face, which are recognised for their soft fluid drape.

Fabric objective measurement and drape

“…As the coefficient of variation CV% was used to measure the drape coefficient's dispersion within a group of fabrics. The higher the CV% was, the higher the sensitivity to differentiate between fabrics within one group.I ,I , I showed significantly higher CV% values than the relative D , D and D which indicated that these new parameters significantly distinguished between different fabrics [83].…”

“…This means that wool fabrics with high drapeability could be engineered using suitable production parameters for the fabric starting with the fibre content through the yarn to the fabric structure and mechanical properties endowed by the finishing process. This would be useful information for researchers working on engineering fabrics for certain purposes (fit for purpose), as they are able to engineer fabrics with high drapeability using the existing knowledge and rules with respect to the selection of fibre, yarn, fabric and finishing production and process criteria (see Table 3.1Table 4.1) [83]. …”

“…Bending stiffness, ability to shear, tensile behaviour, surface friction, mass per unit area and thickness had impact on fabric drape. Stiffness to weight ratio affected fabric drapeability negatively [83].…”

“…These equations were applied in several further studies investigating drape in terms of studying different features of fabrics [57,[80][81][82][83] and the effect of finishing on fabric drape behaviour [92,110].…”

Elaboration of a Conductive Textile by Coating for Clothes Equipped with Fourth-Generation Photovoltaic Cells

“…Air permeability is an important factor in the comfort of a fabric as it plays a role in transporting moisture vapor from the skin to the outside atmosphere. The assumption is that vapor travels mainly through fabric spaces by diffusion in air from one side of the fabric to the other [9]. Air permeability was measured via standard norm ISO 9237, it is defined as the volume of air in liters which is passed through 10 cm² of the fabric in one minute at a pressure of 500 Pa. Due to the way which yarns, and fabrics are constructed, a large proportion of the total volume occupied by a fabric is usually airspace.…”