The static and dynamic drape behavioar of polyester-fibre shingosen fabrics was investigated precisely and analyzed by using the new mechanical parameters of the dynamic drapability of fabrics, such as the revolving drape-increase coefficient, />^, and the revolving drape coeffideDt at 200 r/min, />^. It is shown that the value of D^ of Peach Face type was small and that of New Worsted type was large. The value of i?^ of New Worsted type was larger than that for other shingosen types. On the other hand, there was DO dUTereoce between each group of shiogosen fiabrics in node numbers and conventional static drape coefGciente. In the classification by production characteristics, yam-processing-type fabrics showed larger values niD^ and D^t han fihre-production-and fahric-finishing-type fabrics. In the classification by fibre characteristics, contractile-fibre-type shingosen fabrics showed the smallest values of D^ and D.j^. These features of shingosen fabrics in static and dynamic drape behaviour became more distinct by means of discriminant analysis using tbe parameters of the revolving drape coefiBcients and also the conventional static drape coefGcient and node number as variables.
The static and dynamic drape behavior of polyester Shingosen fabrics is investigated using the new mechanical parameter of dynamic drapability, that is, the dynamic drape coefficient with swinging motion Dd. The Dd of the Peach Face fabric is small and that of the New Worsted fabric is large. On the other hand, there are almost no differences between each group of Shingosen fabrics in node numbers and conventional static drape coefficients. In classifying production characteristics, yam-processing fabrics show larger values of Dd than other fiber-production and fabric-finishing samples. In classifying fiber characteristics contractile fiber and ultra-fine fiber Shingosen fabrics show smaller values of Dd than irregular fiber fabrics.
Conventional static and new dynamic drape coefficients of silk woven fabrics are examined precisely to distinguish those features of each classified fabric by its yarn structure using our regression equations. We find that Shantung has large values of static drape coefficient D, and small node number n, revolving drape increase coefficient D,., and dynamic drape coefficient with swinging motion Dd. Chirimen is characterized by large values of Dr and Dd. Georgette has small values of revolving drape coefficient at 200 rpm, D200. Habutae has relatively large values of Ds and small n, and Dechine has relatively large values of Dr and Dd, but Fujiginu has no peculiar features. The differences between Fujiginu, Dechine, and Georgette become clear from the discriminant analysis, using the five drape parameters as variables. New dynamic drape coefficients are more useful for characterizing each classified silk fabric.
Static and dynamic drape behaviors of polyester woven fabrics are s died through representative finishing stages using two sets of fabrics with different conditions of relaxation and weight reduction. The node number n, the revolving drape increase coefficient Dr, and the dynamic drape coefficient Dd increase through the finishing stages, especially with relaxation. The static drape coefficient D, and revolving drape coefficient at 200 rpm D200 decrease through the finishing stages, especially with relaxation. These parameters do not change much after dyeing and raising. The effect of elaxation in a washer is stronger than in a jet-dyeing machine for these parameters. The e fect of weight reduction on D, and D200 appears clearly: the former increases and the latter decreases with a higher ratio of weight reduction.
The effect of weight reduction on static-and dynamic-drape coefficients of polyester-fiber fabrics was studied precisely using 2 sets of fabric samples, one of which had various weave densities of weft yarns. Following conclusions were obtained: (1) Node number; n, the revolving drape increase coefficient; Dr, and the dynamic drape coefficient at swinging motion; Dd, increase with the increase of weight reduction ratio, and saturate around the ratio of 23%. (2) Static drape coefficient; Ds, and the revolving drape coefficient at 200 rpm; D200, decrease with the increase of ratio, however, the former also saturates around 20 %. (3) The effect of yarn weave density at the same weight reduction appears clearly on Dd, D200, and Dr, and these drape parameters increase with the increase in yarn weave density.
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