Fabric design considering the optimisation of seam slippage

Abstract

PurposeThe dependence of seam slippage values on fabric construction parameters makes this property an interesting case for study.Design/methodology/approachIn this study, made on a significant wool and blended fabrics sample, the seam slippage was measured, either in warp direction (weft yarns slip), or in weft direction (warp yarns slip), using a specially equipped load‐elongation tester. Testing was done following the TM 117 Woolmark Company test method.FindingsFor most fabrics, the conventional variables that impact seam slippage most seriously are opacity, polyamide content, finish type and cover factor.Research limitations/implicationsSince this research does not deal with the variable of yarn crimp in fabrics, it is the cover factor that plays the central role, as the property determining seam slippage. The yarns with lower cover factor (less crimped) are in less danger of slipping between the perpendicular yarns (more crimped) and vice versa.Practical implicationsBased on the equations given, and changing the most relevant variables concerning the explanation of the fabric seam slippage property, the fabric properties can be optimised for specific end‐uses.Originality/valueOptimisation of seam slippage in fabric design.

The Evaluation of Yarn Slippage at the Sewn Seam in Woven Fabrics Using the New Methods

“…The high difference between the applied test methods was determined for woven fabrics KR, P11z, D and R. For other fabrics the seam opening d was equal to about 10 mm. The reason for this was that the low stability of textile materials without finishing [4,5,7]. Two typical cases were determined according to the distribution of fabrics' seam slippage parameters h, d v and d a in respect to the total seam opening d (Fig.…”

“…The results have shown, that the lowest yarn pull-out force demonstrate fabrics R and KR which are with longer flats compared with plain weave fabrics [5,6]. D, K, KR fabrics also had the lowest yarn pull-out displacement because these fabrics were not treated.…”

Influence of different sewing parameters on seam quality

“…5,11 Fabrics with higher cover factor shows high resistance to seam slippage as there is high number of contact points between the yarns, high crimp of yarns and as a result increase of friction between the yarns. 12,13 Plain weave is the most resistant weave type to seam slippage. Twill weave, satin weave and panama weave are prone to seam slippage bacause they have less interlacements of yarns and longer floats, and therefore more flexible structures.…”