Expertise effects on the perceptual and cognitive tasks of indoor rock climbing

Whitaker, Mirinda; Pointon, Grant; Tarampi, Margaret R.; Rand, Kristina M.

doi:10.3758/s13421-019-00985-7

Cited by 20 publications

(41 citation statements)

References 40 publications

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“…One of the best examples of disciplines of this kind, requiring accurate vision and the ability to read environmental nuances for high sport performance is rock climbing. Expert climbers must combine complex motor skills with accurate and adaptive environmental perception (Whitaker et al., 2019).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Sport Practice Enhances Athletes’ Observation Capacity: Comparing Scenic Change Detection in Open and Closed Sports

Grosprêtre¹,

Gabriel

2020

Percept Mot Skills

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Domain-specific knowledge guides our attention and thus influences our perception. Prior change-blindness research has shown that expert athletes can spot meaningful scene changes more quickly than novices, but less is known of whether this expertise is modulated differentially between open and closed sporting activities. We presented 81 individuals (20 gymnasts, 19 rock climbers, 22 parkour practitioners, and 20 control participants) with alternating sequences of images that corresponded to the habitual training landscapes of each group (gymnasiums, rock cliffs, and urban environments, respectively). We included contextual and non-contextual scenic changes to evaluate whether athletes were generally aware of their environments, or whether their observation strategies only targeted sport-related environmental elements. Among these three athletic endeavors, we found that gymnasts were faster at detecting changes in their environment, irrespective of whether or not these changes were contextual to the sports involved. Expert rock climbers presented a domain-specific expertise that was improved even further for contextual changes. Parkour practitioners presented the fastest reaction times in the urban environment and some of the best reaction times for all types of changes. These results confirm that an ability to read the environment is an integral aspect of practice in open-skilled sports, while skills of athletes in closed-skilled sports are more closely related to motor skill repetitions in constant environments. Thus, open skill training may benefit athletes’ guidance of attention. Our finding that parkour practitioners appeared to have developed the widest perceptual abilities was probably linked to these athletes’ extremely wide range of practice environments and with the constant demands of this sport to find solutions in random natural environments that that are not purposely designed for the sport.

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Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Sport Practice Enhances Athletes’ Observation Capacity: Comparing Scenic Change Detection in Open and Closed Sports

Grosprêtre¹,

Gabriel

2020

Percept Mot Skills

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“…In addition, in the "Lead" and the "Bouldering" disciplines, this is a similar technique, especially for the lowest stages in the "Lead" discipline (Schweizer, Andreas &Furrer, 2007;Sibella, 2007;Whitaker, Pointon, Tarampi, & Rand, 2019). These provisions explain why success in the "Climbing Combined" discipline is more likely for athletes specializing in the "Lead" and "Bouldering" disciplines, since these disciplines are similar in motor structure (Schweizer, Andreas &Furrer, 2007;Sibella, 2007;Whitaker, Pointon, Tarampi, & Rand, 2019). In order for an athlete to show high results in the Climbing Combined due to the equal contribution of results in all three disciplines, endurance strength, explosive strength and speed must be developed equally, but it becomes impossible to achieve maximum success in a separate type of climbing.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…It is worth noting that the search for ways to predict the results in the Olympic Climbing Combined climbing discipline is not accidental. Different types of competitive climbing activities require the inclusion of different energy supply mechanisms (Ignjatović, Stanković, Pantelić, Puletić, 2017;Kozina, Ryepko, Prusik, Prusik, &Cieślicka, 2014;Sheel, Newbury, Sulentic, 2004Schweizer, Andreas &Furella, 2007Whitaker, Pointon, Tarampi, & Rand, 2019). This complicates the training process, and requires coaches to deeply analyze the athlete's abilities to choose a specialization.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Bouldering is considered to be trails with a length of 6 to 14 interceptions (competition rules), during the passage of which the result is affected by the number of attempts spent on reaching the finish line. Climbing takes place on tall mats that protect the safety of athletes (Kozin, 2019;Kozina, Repko, Safronov, Kozin, Evarnickii, &Grebniova, 2018;Schweizer, Andreas &Furrer, 2007;Sibella, 2007;Whitaker, Pointon, Tarampi, &Rand , 2019).…”

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confidence: 99%

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Untitled

2020

JPES

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Climbing will be presented at the 2020 Olympic Games as an independent competitive discipline in the "Climbing Combined" format, which will include all competitive disciplines. The aim of the study: identifying the relationship between the ranking in certain types of sports climbing and the ranking in the Olympic discipline of climbing "Climbing Combined" in men according to the results of the 2018 World Cup. Material and methods. The study involved 87 climbers (men) who took part in the 2018 World Cup. The data presented in the competition protocols on lead, speed, bouldering and Climbing Combined were summarized (places occupied by the athlete, points were awarded to him to summarize the results). Pearson's correlation analysis was performed to identify the relationship between rating in various climbing disciplines and Climbing Combined rating. Using the analysis of variance, the effect of the results in various disciplines on the result in Climbing Combined was determined. Results There is no significant relationship between the rating disciplines "Speed" and "Lead". Also, no reliable relationship between the rating in the disciplines "Speed" and "Bouldering" was revealed. ANOVA of the impact of the results in some types of climbing on the result in Climbing Combined showed the presence of reliable dependence of the result in the discipline "Bouldering" on the result in Climbing Combined (p <0,05), of the result in the discipline "Lead" on the result in the Climbing Combined (p <0,05) and from the combined interaction of results in these types of climbing on the result in the Climbing Combined (p <0.05). Conclusions. It is shown that athletes who specialize in the Lead and Bouldering disciplines are more likely to compete in the Climbing Combined, as the results in these disciplines are interrelated and significantly affect the result in the All-round.

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“…Contrasting results [ 20 ] show significant differences among soccer players. Whitaker et al [ 21 ] examined the working memory capacity in climbers using the Corsi block test. In their study, skilled climbers did not outperform less experienced climbers.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Executive Functions and Domain-Specific Cognitive Skills in Climbers

Heilmann

2021

Brain Sciences

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Athletes in a particular sport have specific cognitive skills acquired due to regular confrontation with sport-specific requirements. Studies show that the particular type of sport carried out and fostered by general physical activity impacts executive functions (EFs) such as inhibition, working memory, and cognitive flexibility. There are inconsistent results on the connections between domain-specific cognitive skills and executive functions. This study aimed to evaluate the relations between EFs and domain-specific cognitive skills in climbing. Due to that, we examined the executive functions (neuropsychological tests) and domain-specific cognitive skills (climbing-specific test: a preview of the route vs. climbed moves; climbed moves vs. recognition of moves) of 19 climbers (10 novices, 9 experts, grades 5 to 6a vs. 6c+ to 7b). The inter-subject effects analysis shows that novices and experts in sport climbing do not differ in executive functions in this particular case. Concerning domain-specific cognitive skills, there are differences between experts and novices. Experts show a significantly higher level in planning performance or route idea (p < 0.001) as well as in memorizing of climbed moves (p = 0.004). There are no relations between executive functions and domain-specific cognitive skills in climbers.

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Expertise effects on the perceptual and cognitive tasks of indoor rock climbing

Cited by 20 publications

References 40 publications

Sport Practice Enhances Athletes’ Observation Capacity: Comparing Scenic Change Detection in Open and Closed Sports

Sport Practice Enhances Athletes’ Observation Capacity: Comparing Scenic Change Detection in Open and Closed Sports

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Executive Functions and Domain-Specific Cognitive Skills in Climbers

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