Coastal Engineering 1990 1991
DOI: 10.1061/9780872627765.063
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Directional Random Waves Propagation on Beaches

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Cited by 5 publications
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“…The wave directions, θ, span the range θ p − π 3 , θ p + π 3 , where θ p is the peak direction. Then, following Grassa [39], we calculate the wave amplitude components associated with each PWS seasonal spectrum such that:…”
Section: Funwavementioning
confidence: 99%
“…The wave directions, θ, span the range θ p − π 3 , θ p + π 3 , where θ p is the peak direction. Then, following Grassa [39], we calculate the wave amplitude components associated with each PWS seasonal spectrum such that:…”
Section: Funwavementioning
confidence: 99%
“…The directional spectrum was discretised based on an equal energy components method because, when compared with a constant step method, is more efficient for a small number of directional components (Grassa, 1990).…”
Section: àP=2mentioning
confidence: 99%
“…The approach followed here is inspired to the method used by Kirby et al (1992), who separated the whole wave spectrum into several narrow bands and for each of these solved the time-dependent MSE. Here we directly use the Fourier Transform of the time-dependent MSE and we solve the resulting equations in the frequency domain, thus similarly to Grassa (1990) and Panchang et al (1990). The problem therefore reduces to the solution of the traditional elliptic MSE and the time series of the surface elevation is then recovered by means of the Inverse Fourier Transform.…”
Section: Introductionmentioning
confidence: 99%