Deep water observations of extreme waves with moored and free GPS buoys

Waseda, Takuji; Sinchi, Masato; Kiyomatsu, Keiji; Nishida, Tomoya; Takahashi, Shunsuke; Asaumi, Sho; Kawai, Yoshimi; Tamura, Hitoshi; Miyazawa, Yasumasa

doi:10.1007/s10236-014-0751-4

Cited by 29 publications

(19 citation statements)

References 19 publications

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“…Calculation Condition Of HOSM. Two freak waves were observed in the Northwest Pacific Ocean in October 2009 in the point-positioning GPS-based wave measurements [45,46]. The directional spectra of these events hindcast by the third-generation wave model, WAVEWATCH III, are shown in Fig.…”

Section: Short-crested Irregular Wavesmentioning

confidence: 99%

Freak Wave Generation in a Wave Basin With HOSM-WG Method

Houtani

Waseda

Fujimoto

et al. 2015

Volume 7: Ocean Engineering

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A method to produce freak waves with arbitrary spectrum in a fully directional wave basin is presented here. This is an extension of Waseda, Houtani and Tanizawa at OMAE 2013[1], which used “HOSM-WG” based on the higher-order spectral method (HOSM). We used the following three methods to improve the HOSM-WG in [1]: “separation of free waves from bound waves,” “using Biesel’s transfer function in wavenumber space” and “using Schaffer’s 2nd-order wave maker control method.” Modulational wave trains, freak waves in unidirectional irregular waves and freak waves in short-crested irregular waves were generated in a wave basin. The experimental results using the improved HOSM-WG were compared to the HOSM simulation, and good agreements were found. The effectiveness of the improved HOSM-WG was ascertained. We showed that the difference between HOSM-WG and HOSM simulations became larger as wave steepness, frequency bandwidth of the spectrum or directional spreading became larger.

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Section: Short-crested Irregular Wavesmentioning

confidence: 99%

Freak Wave Generation in a Wave Basin With HOSM-WG Method

Houtani

Waseda

Fujimoto

et al. 2015

Volume 7: Ocean Engineering

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“…The vexing issue of what exactly buoys measure, especially in high seas, remains a challenge some 60 years after the first wave spectra were measured using capacitance wire recorders (Tucker and Charnock, 1955;Burling, 1955). Waseda et al (2014) demonstrated that buoys originally meant for meteorological measurements or tsunami monitoring can be equipped with GPS sensors and provide reliable wave measurements in remote deep-water locations. Observations from tropical cyclones showed evidence of nonlinearities in the orbital motion of the highest waves in the centre of wave groups.…”

Section: The 13th Workhopmentioning

confidence: 99%

The international workshop on wave hindcasting and forecasting and the coastal hazards symposium

Breivik

Swail²,

Babanin³

et al. 2015

Ocean Dynamics

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Following the 13th International Workshop on Wave Hindcasting and Forecasting and 4th Coastal Hazards Symposium in October 2013 in Banff, Canada, a topical collection has appeared in recent issues of Ocean Dynamics. Here we give a brief overview of the history of the conference since its inception in 1986 and of the progress made in the fields of wind-generated ocean waves and the modelling of coastal hazards before we summarize the main results of the papers that have appeared in the topical collection.The period around the time of the initial workshop was a very exciting one for wave modelling, forecasting and hindcasting. The WAM model (Hasselmann et al., 1988) was in the process of becoming the first community wave model, arising out of the SWAMP program (SWAMP, 1985) and the plethora of wave models which existed in the early 1980s. The advent of these sophisticated third-generation models, and the rapidly increasing computing capabilities of numerical weather prediction centres, led to the increased use of numerical wave models in operational forecasting.With time more centres began using these models for their operational programs, and an international wave forecast comparison project was established, coordinated by The European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF), to evaluate forecast performance and identify areas of potential improvement (Bidlot et al., 2002). At the same time, hindcasting was becoming the accepted basis for developing wave climatology in general, and particularly for developing the basis for offshore design criteria. Due to the limitations of computing power and the lack of suitable historical wind fields, these early hindcasts covered only the most extreme storms in a limited area of the ocean. They were thus a far cry from today's decades-long, global wave hindcasts forced with atmospheric reanalyses. Yet at the time these hindcasts took a Herculean effort in terms of computing and through the meticulous preparation of suitable wind fields.An important alliance was formed in 2006, when the workshop was first co-sponsored by the WMO-IOC Joint Technical Commission for Oceanography and Marine Meteorology (JCOMM). Subsequently, and following the very successful JCOMM Scientific and Technical Symposium on Storm Surges in October 2007 in South Korea, a symposium on hazard assessment in coastal areas was established, and later held jointly with the Wave Workshop. This has provided an excellent opportunity for cross-pollination of ideas between wave and storm surge prediction. While the primary focus of the workshop was, and remains, wave hindcasting and forecasting, what makes this workshop unique is the treatment of the end-to-end research issues associated with ocean waves, from the basic research on wave physics to the ultimate use of the products. The topics have thus ranged from research and operational aspects of wave and storm surge hindcasting and forecasting, regional hindcasts, storm surge climatology, data collection and instrumentation, data assimilation, wave-cur...

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“…Nikolkina and Didenkulova [3] collected and analyzed freak waves reported in media in 2006-2010. Takuji Waseda et al [4] conducted deep water observation of freak waves in the North West Pacific Ocean. Zakharov et al [5] conducted a study on the statistics of arising of freak waves on a surface of an ideal heavy fluid is studied.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Notes on multi-parameters perturbation method for dispersive and nonlinear partial differential equations

Cahyono¹,

Ngkoimani²,

Ramli³

2015

ijma

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Waves develop amplitude change during the propagation. For the simplest case, this has been shown by bichromatic waves, waves that contain two frequencies. The waves of larger amplitudes and smaller frequency differences showed more significant amplitude deformation. The amplitude deformation can be explained from the so-called side band interactions. Perturbation method for diffusive and 2122 Edi Cahyono et al. nonlinear equation is applied to show the amplitude deformation. The solution is in the form of a series expansion of the amplitude as Stokes' approach for single frequency waves. Stokes' approach shows that the dispersion relation involves the amplitude. However, this does not explain the amplitude deformation. Therefore, this paper discusses bichromatic wave solution of diffusive and nonlinear equation. Moreover, the focus is on a hidden parameter appears in the series expansion, namely the wave number difference. The parameter of wave number difference may affect the convergence of the series expansion. The relation among the parameters of amplitude, wave number and wave number difference for the convergence of the series is presented.

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Deep water observations of extreme waves with moored and free GPS buoys

Cited by 29 publications

References 19 publications

Freak Wave Generation in a Wave Basin With HOSM-WG Method

Freak Wave Generation in a Wave Basin With HOSM-WG Method

The international workshop on wave hindcasting and forecasting and the coastal hazards symposium

Notes on multi-parameters perturbation method for dispersive and nonlinear partial differential equations

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