Comparison between KES-FB and FAST in Discrimination of Fabric Characteristics

Lai, Sang‐Song; Shyr, Tien Wei; Lin, Jer-Yan

doi:10.4188/jte.48.43

Cited by 9 publications

(5 citation statements)

References 1 publication

(2 reference statements)

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“…The Kawabata Evaluation System (KES-F) and the SiroFAST (Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing) system (Kawabata, 1982;Lai et al, 2002;Ly et al, 1991;Minazio, 1995;De Boos, 2005) have been used in industry for predicting the aesthetic qualities perceived by human touch and communicating them both in manufacture and in quality assurance processes. For such purpose, much investigation has taken place to compare the results of Subjective and Objective textile testing (Howorth and Oliver, 1958;El-Mogahzy et al, 2005).…”

Section: Textile Hand Evaluation Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Literature in the textile realm highlights a number of methods, both subjective (Winakor et al, 1980;Philippe et al, 2003;Sular and Okur, 2008;Soufflet et al, 2004) and objective (Kawabata, 1982;Lai et al, 2002;Ly et al, 1991;Minazio, 1995;De Boos, 2005), used in research and industry to predict or discern the tactile properties of textiles. During their education, and through experience in industry, fashion and textile designers are trained to perceive differences in the tactile qualities of textiles.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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The tactile triangle: a design research framework demonstrated through tactile comparisons of textile materials

Atkinson¹,

Baurley

Petreca

et al. 2016

JDR

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Tactile experiences of textile materials are difficult to communicate and elicit. To interrogate this space we propose the tactile triangle, a framework to facilitate systematic analysis and comparison of tactile experiences. The three levels reflect different aspects of tactile experience and possible methods to capture them: physical properties, in which human senses or objective testing measure fabric properties; the perceptual space level in which triadic comparisons reveal combinations of various dimensions which capture and describe tactile experiences; and finally the communication level, in which design games elicit languages communicating tactile perceptions. A case study illustrates the framework's use to compare the tactile experiences of textiles in experts and consumers. The results show expert and consumer perceptions overlapped and correlated well to objective measures except in the perception of temperature. We conclude by discussing the framework's effectiveness, the contribution of individual methods, and its potential as a communication tool for designers.Keywords: textile; fabric; sensory; touch; perception; aesthetics. Biographical notes: Douglas Atkinson is a Research Fellow at The Digital Anthropology Lab, London College of Fashion. His work explores how the digital can be used to infer and represent sensory and emotional aspects of human experience, which are crucial to our identities, relationships to fashion items and the experience of fashion makers. In parallel, he investigates the changes in contemporary design practice due to increasing detachment from material experience. He has previously conducted RCUK, ESRC and EPSRC

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Section: Textile Hand Evaluation Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

The tactile triangle: a design research framework demonstrated through tactile comparisons of textile materials

Atkinson¹,

Baurley

Petreca

et al. 2016

JDR

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

show abstract

“…The KESF consists of multiple instruments that measure individual mechanical and surface properties such as fabric tensile, shear, bending, lateral compression and surface friction properties. Another fabric testing system, Fabric Assurance with Simple Testing (FAST) (Ly et al 1988;Lai et al 2002), was also introduced in the late 1980s, which measured fabric properties and related results to fabric handle and tailorability and to garment appearance. However, the KESF and FAST are configured for woven fabrics and are not well suited to testing lightweight knitted fabrics used for next-to-skin wear.…”

Section: Measurement Of Fabric Properties Associated With Fabric Handlementioning

confidence: 99%

Measuring fabric handle to define luxury: an overview of handle specification in next-to-skin knitted fabrics from Merino wool

Mahar

Wang

2010

Anim. Prod. Sci.

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An examination is presented of the relevance of luxury to the wool textile and garment supply chain. This examination leads to a review of the concept and importance of fabric handle as a means of defining important aspects of fabric quality. Examples are given for woven fabrics of the general relationships between subjectively assessed fabric handle attributes such as fabric softness and smoothness and measured low stress, generally high deformation, fabric properties such as fabric bending rigidity and extensibility. A brief overview is presented of the development of a system for predicting a set of subjectively assessed handle attributes for next-to-skin knitted fabrics from measurable fabric properties. Seven handle attributes selected by experienced assessors as being important for defining tactile sensations associated with next-to-skin knitted fabrics were: fabric smoothness, hairiness, softness, tightness, dryness, warmth and weight. Subjective assessments on a 1–10 scale of these seven attributes, plus an assessment of overall handle, were conducted by 12 experienced assessors on 74 next-to-skin knitted fabrics. The precision of the mean assessment of the 12 assessors ranged between 0.8 and 1.1, indicating that there was sufficient consensus on key fabric handle assessments to justify development of a method for predicting them from measurements of the physical properties of fabrics. All fabrics were tested using the PhabrOmeter fabric evaluation system, which records the force exerted during insertion of a fabric into and through an orifice. Geometric parameters were derived to describe the PhabrOmeter force-displacement curve results, and statistical models were developed to predict the average handle assessments of the 12 assessors. The precision of the models in predicting the handle intensities of eight fabric attributes on an independent validation set of 22 fabrics was significantly better than the precision of an individual assessor (confidence limits = 1.4–2.6 and 2.5–3.8, for predicted and assessed ratings, respectively). A case is made that this technology has the potential to assist in the growth of new markets for Merino wool products.

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“…Similarly, the FAST system also predicts the fabric tailorability and appearance. These systems indirectly correlate fabric hand with its physical and mechanical properties using expensive and delicate instruments [9,10]. Moreover, they are limited in function for woven fabrics.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

A New Approach to Evaluate Fabric Hand Based on Three-Dimensional Drape Model

Hussain

Zhong

Naveed

et al. 2020

Autex Research Journal

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Fabric quality and performance is assessed subjectively by the customer using an important and complex phenomenon of fabric hand. Objectively, it is evaluated with complicated and expensive instruments, such as Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics (KES-F) and Fabric Assurance with Simple Testing (FAST). The present research explores a non-touch objective approach, i.e., three-dimensional (3D) drape model to estimate fabric hand. Fabric hand prediction was testified on different commercial fabrics spanning a wide range of areal weight, thickness, yarn count, and fabric density. Fabric objective ranks based on drape indicators using principal component analysis (PCA) were compared with subjective ranks of fabric hand. Additionally, fabric drape is evaluated three dimensionally and a new drape indicator drape height (DH) is proposed. The cosine similarity results have proved fabric drape as an objective alternate to fabric hand.

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Comparison between KES-FB and FAST in Discrimination of Fabric Characteristics

Cited by 9 publications

References 1 publication

The tactile triangle: a design research framework demonstrated through tactile comparisons of textile materials

The tactile triangle: a design research framework demonstrated through tactile comparisons of textile materials

Measuring fabric handle to define luxury: an overview of handle specification in next-to-skin knitted fabrics from Merino wool

A New Approach to Evaluate Fabric Hand Based on Three-Dimensional Drape Model

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