The results of an extensive study are reported involving the variability of measuring low-stress fabric mechanical and surface properties for a range of 30 wool and wool blend suiting fabrics. Seven sets of KESF instruments were used for the interlaboratory tests in Australia, Japan, Germany, the United Kingdom, New Zealand, and the Peo ple's Republic of China. Values are given for the repeatability and reproducibility of 37 parameters and ratios characterizing the elastic and inelastic components of fabric deformation in tension, shear, bending, and lateral compression, as well as fabric surface behavior, that is, surface topography and friction. Measurement precision is also specified in terms of the maximum error for these parameters. The variance of the measurements is quoted in terms of its within-laboratory, between-laboratory, and specimen-laboratory interaction components. Recommendations are made for both the in-house product and process development situations (within laboratory) and for specifications for commercial transactions (between laboratory) as to the number of tests that should be performed in order to achieve a given level of precision. Though varying numbers of tests are recommended for some parameters, a general rule of three tests per sample may be taken as a guide.
An examination is presented of the relevance of luxury to the wool textile and garment supply chain. This examination leads to a review of the concept and importance of fabric handle as a means of defining important aspects of fabric quality. Examples are given for woven fabrics of the general relationships between subjectively assessed fabric handle attributes such as fabric softness and smoothness and measured low stress, generally high deformation, fabric properties such as fabric bending rigidity and extensibility. A brief overview is presented of the development of a system for predicting a set of subjectively assessed handle attributes for next-to-skin knitted fabrics from measurable fabric properties. Seven handle attributes selected by experienced assessors as being important for defining tactile sensations associated with next-to-skin knitted fabrics were: fabric smoothness, hairiness, softness, tightness, dryness, warmth and weight. Subjective assessments on a 1–10 scale of these seven attributes, plus an assessment of overall handle, were conducted by 12 experienced assessors on 74 next-to-skin knitted fabrics. The precision of the mean assessment of the 12 assessors ranged between 0.8 and 1.1, indicating that there was sufficient consensus on key fabric handle assessments to justify development of a method for predicting them from measurements of the physical properties of fabrics. All fabrics were tested using the PhabrOmeter fabric evaluation system, which records the force exerted during insertion of a fabric into and through an orifice. Geometric parameters were derived to describe the PhabrOmeter force-displacement curve results, and statistical models were developed to predict the average handle assessments of the 12 assessors. The precision of the models in predicting the handle intensities of eight fabric attributes on an independent validation set of 22 fabrics was significantly better than the precision of an individual assessor (confidence limits = 1.4–2.6 and 2.5–3.8, for predicted and assessed ratings, respectively). A case is made that this technology has the potential to assist in the growth of new markets for Merino wool products.
By testing fabric extraction properties, the PhabrOmeter Fabric Evaluation System offers the potential for routine objective evaluation of fabric handle. In this paper, a series of simple linear models has been developed using fabric extraction curve data for a series of lightweight next-to-skin knitted wool fabrics. These models predict eight fabric handle characteristics: overall handle, rough-smooth, hard-soft, loose-tight, heavy-light, hairy-clean, warm-cool and greasy-dry. The models were validated using an independent set of fabrics. The prediction precision of the models is significantly better than the precision of an experienced individual assessor.
The concepts of overall handle discussed in Part IV of this series [21] for men's suiting fabrics are explained in this analysis using descriptors called handle attributes. Definitions and English word descriptors are provided for the Japanese primary hand expressions isolated by the Hand Evaluation and Standardisation Committee for these fabric types. Sleekness, fullness, firmness, and drape are isolated as the relatively in dependent descriptors of handle for winter fabrics. Similarly, firmness/hardness, crispness, and fullness also characterize men's suitings. From the results of two inter national studies of handle preferences, judges prefer a sleek, full handle with relatively little stiffness and good drape for winter fabrics. There are strong national preferences for the handle of summer fabrics: there is a common handle assessment for Australian, New Zealand, Indian, U.S., and Hong Kong/Taiwanese panels of judges. There are different, and in some sense opposite, handle preferences for the Japanese and P.R.C. (Chinese) panels, who are mutually consistent. These judges prefer a firm, crisp, hard handle for summer fabrics, while the remaining five national panels exhibit opposite preferences.
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