The results of an extensive study are reported involving the variability of measuring low-stress fabric mechanical and surface properties for a range of 30 wool and wool blend suiting fabrics. Seven sets of KESF instruments were used for the interlaboratory tests in Australia, Japan, Germany, the United Kingdom, New Zealand, and the Peo ple's Republic of China. Values are given for the repeatability and reproducibility of 37 parameters and ratios characterizing the elastic and inelastic components of fabric deformation in tension, shear, bending, and lateral compression, as well as fabric surface behavior, that is, surface topography and friction. Measurement precision is also specified in terms of the maximum error for these parameters. The variance of the measurements is quoted in terms of its within-laboratory, between-laboratory, and specimen-laboratory interaction components. Recommendations are made for both the in-house product and process development situations (within laboratory) and for specifications for commercial transactions (between laboratory) as to the number of tests that should be performed in order to achieve a given level of precision. Though varying numbers of tests are recommended for some parameters, a general rule of three tests per sample may be taken as a guide.
The concepts of overall handle discussed in Part IV of this series [21] for men's suiting fabrics are explained in this analysis using descriptors called handle attributes. Definitions and English word descriptors are provided for the Japanese primary hand expressions isolated by the Hand Evaluation and Standardisation Committee for these fabric types. Sleekness, fullness, firmness, and drape are isolated as the relatively in dependent descriptors of handle for winter fabrics. Similarly, firmness/hardness, crispness, and fullness also characterize men's suitings. From the results of two inter national studies of handle preferences, judges prefer a sleek, full handle with relatively little stiffness and good drape for winter fabrics. There are strong national preferences for the handle of summer fabrics: there is a common handle assessment for Australian, New Zealand, Indian, U.S., and Hong Kong/Taiwanese panels of judges. There are different, and in some sense opposite, handle preferences for the Japanese and P.R.C. (Chinese) panels, who are mutually consistent. These judges prefer a firm, crisp, hard handle for summer fabrics, while the remaining five national panels exhibit opposite preferences.
A torsion-balance apparatus, incorporating a photopotentiometer device and developed to study the torsional-hysteresis and torque-relaxation behaviour of both monofiiament and multililameni yarns under conditions of constant tension, is described. Differences in the shape oJ the torsionalhysteresis curves are studied for nylon monofilament and muhifiiament yarns-these differences in shape are related to friction effects and to the mechanical properties of the constituent filaments.
Spirality arising from loop distortion in single-jersey knitted fabrics is discussed. Test methods for measuring fabric spirality in knitted fabrics are outlined. Results of an experimental investigation are statistically analyzed considering the effects of yarn/fabric construction factors on the spirality behavior of laboratory produced single-jersey fabrics. The study reveals that the steady-state loop shape for the washed/tumbledried knitted specimens is not unique. Accordingly, the construction factors considered in the statistical analyses are yarn linear density, yarn twist factor, fabric tightness factor, and fabric loop shape. The analyses reveal the importance of the yarn twist factor as well as the fabric tightness factor in promoting fabric spirality. Multiple linear regression equations of practical importance for predicting fabric spirality are derived from the experimental results.
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