Comparative Effects of Retinoic Acid, Glycolic Acid and a Lipophilic Derivative of Salicylic Acid on Photodamaged Epidermis

Abstract

Background: Studies comparing purported antiaging compounds are rare. Objective: To compare in a randomized, placebo-controlled double-blind study 10% glycolic acid (GA), 2% 2-hydroxy-5-octanoyl benzoic acid (β-lipohydroxy acid, LSA) and 0.05% all-trans-retinoic acid (RA). Methods: Women volunteers treated one forearm twice daily with one of the active products and the other one with the vehicle. Comparative evaluations of efficacy were made using histochemistry and quantitative immunohistochemistry. Results: Improvement in the various epidermal compartments was the most prominent finding at the RA-treated site. The LSA-treated site also exhibited similar positive changes, although to a lesser degree. GA showed no significant effect. Conclusion: In the presently tested concentrations and formulations, RA had a beneficial impact upon the aging epidermis. LSA mimicked RA but with somewhat lesser efficacy. By contrast, GA appeared almost inactive.

Preventive effect of chemical peeling on ultraviolet induced skin tumor formation

“…Topical ointment containing 2% 2-hydroxy-5-octanoyl benzoic acid (beta-lipohydroxy acid, lipophylic derivative of salicylic acid) has been reported to improve photodamaged epidermis [34]. Therefore, chemical peeling with glycolic acid and salicylic acid might have the advantage in improving photoaged skin compared with that with TCA.…”

Oral fish cartilage polysaccharides in the treatment of photoageing: biophysical findings

“…This results from both intrinsic and extrinsic ageing, which affect dermal properties. The cosmetic products based on different active principles are very active in treating and preventing skin ageing from ‘outside’ the body; indeed, owing to its topical application, they affect mainly the epidermal structures [1]. Dermal effects of such treatments may be visible after several months.…”

Non‐ablative skin remodeling: an 8‐month clinical and 3D in vivo profilometric study with an 810 nm diode laser

“…Numerous treatments including glycolic acid, 4 retinoids, 4 salicylic acid, 4 and a variety of chemical peeling 5 and laser skin resurfacing 6 have been developed to improve photoaging and wrinkling. The major disadvantage is the requisite recovery period following the procedure.…”