Chemical analysis of dyes on an Uzbek ceremonial coat: Objective evidence for artifact dating and the chemistry of early synthetic dyes

Chen, Victor; Smith, Gregory D.; Holden, Amanda; Paydar, Niloo; Kiefer, Kathleen

doi:10.1016/j.dyepig.2016.04.019

Cited by 35 publications

(43 citation statements)

References 22 publications

Supporting

Mentioning

Contrasting

Order By: Relevance

“…However, the discovery of 5,5′-DBI sets a terminus post quem, or date after which, of at least 1907, which is the first reported synthesis of the dye by Engi [12]. This result highlights the use of dye analysis to refine the dating of museum textiles [21]. Of the fifteen twentieth century blue dyed Japanese textiles surveyed at the IMA, 20% of the objects were found to contain 5,5′-DBI, which included 100% of the cotton yukata examined.…”

Section: Handheld Pxrf Analysismentioning

confidence: 96%

Analytical characterization of 5,5′-dibromoindigo and its first discovery in a museum textile

et al. 2019

Self Cite

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

The exploitation of natural sources and later synthetic molecules to generate blue to purple coloration in textiles has a long history in the dyer's craft. Natural indigoids such as indigo, woad, and Tyrian or shellfish purple served this purpose for millennia, but in the late 1800s synthetic analogs, in particular indigotin, quickly replaced natural sources. Halogenated versions of the dye were also created, and some like 5,5′-dibromoindigo were brought to market. Interestingly, these have not been significantly discussed in the literature, nor have they been found in forensic or technical art history investigations of textiles until now. This paper reports the first identification in a museum context of this unusual synthetic brominated analog of indigo, discovered on three twentieth century Japanese yukata. Analytical data collected on reference materials using liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry, UV-visible spectroscopy, Raman microspectroscopy, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, and X-ray fluorescence spectroscopy are provided to assist with future identifications of this relatively unknown colorant. Density functional theory applied to 5,5′-dibromoindigo was used to confirm the experimental Raman spectrum.

show abstract

Section: Handheld Pxrf Analysismentioning

confidence: 96%

Analytical characterization of 5,5′-dibromoindigo and its first discovery in a museum textile

et al. 2019

Self Cite

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

show abstract

“…For both HPLC-DAD and HPLC-DAD-MS analysis, dye components were associated with natural and synthetic dye sources using data measured from reference materials (retention times, UV-Vis spectra and mass measurements) made available by the Getty Conservation Institute (Los Angeles, USA) [61], as well as from the published literature [14,23,24,27,37,38,40,44,[62][63][64]. The dates reported are those attributed based on stylistic interpretation, except for the ikats in which synthetic dyes were found (terminus post quem production dates are reported in bold for these textiles).…”

Section: Hplc-dad-msmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…In the vast majority of the cases, larkspur (Delphinium semibarbatum) was identified based on the presence of kaempferol (Fig. 3b) [26,38]. In addition to the larkspur components, the yellow samples of S2004.…”

Section: Natural Yellow Dyesmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…However, mass spectrometry (MS) detectors have affirmed their advantages, especially in terms of identification of degradation products and relevant non-colored molecules, so that HPLC-DAD-MS is largely applied to dye identification [31,32]. More recently, the application of high resolution mass spectrometry (HRMS) and tandem mass spectrometry (MS/ MS) has opened new possibilities in terms of elucidating structures, distinguishing between isomers and identifying new sources of dyes [33][34][35][36][37][38][39][40][41][42][43]. In particular, these detectors are especially useful when complex isomeric mixtures are present, as they provide an additional level of separation that can sometimes not be achieved by chromatography [44].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

See 1 more Smart Citation

Exploring the transition from natural to synthetic dyes in the production of 19th-century Central Asian ikat textiles

et al. 2020

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

This study focuses on the dye analysis of 26 ikat textiles present in the collection of the Arthur M. Sackler Gallery and originally collected by Dr. Guido Goldman with the aim to gain additional information about their provenance and dating. The investigation exploits the full potential of a multi-analytical approach, starting with a non-invasive survey of all the colors using fiber optic reflectance spectroscopy (FORS), which revealed the presence of indigo and insect-based red dyes. These data were used to select areas from which samples were taken and analyzed by high performance liquid chromatography diode array detector (HPLC–DAD). These results enabled most of the natural sources of dyes to be fully identified, including American cochineal (Dactylopius coccus), madder (probably Rubia tinctorum), lac (probably Kerria lacca), larkspur (Delphinum semibarbatum), pagoda tree flower buds (Sophora japonica), grape vine leaves (Vitis vinifera), indigo and tannins. Complex mixtures of dyes were present in most samples, as a result of both the ikat making process itself and traditional dyeing practices. Synthetic dyes were identified in 9 of the textiles. Samples were re-analyzed using HPLC–DAD coupled to mass spectrometry (HPLC–DAD-MS). Malachite green (basic green 4, C.I. 42000), fuchsine (basic violet 14, C.I. 42510), rhodamine B (basic violet 10, C.I. 45170) and methyl violet (basic violet 1, C.I. 42535) were identified, and a few other tentatively identified synthetic dyes (probably orange I, II and IV, rhodamine 6G, patent blue V and alizarin yellow GG) were detected. As the first synthesis of early synthetic dyes is well documented, their presence was used to refine the dating of these textiles. The contextualization of the results also appeared to support the stylistic assumption that more intricate and colorful designs with a higher level of complexity are dated earlier than simpler, larger and more graphic ones. The overall information acquired reveals a dynamic scenario and an interesting window into the dyers’ experiments and adjustments to the economic and technological changes of the nineteenth century.

show abstract

“…The workshops started flourishing and the new invented synthetic dyes, especially red, came to the fore, leading to the appearance of richer hues [4,5]. Consequently, various scientific studies have been carried out on textiles from Central Asia [6,7], and Iran [8], belonging to the period between the late nineteenth to the early twentieth century.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Twentieth century Iranian carpets: investigation of red dye molecules and study of traditional madder dyeing techniques

2019

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

Red is undoubtedly one of the principal colors in Iranian carpets. During the twentieth century, a golden era for Iranian carpet production and export industry, madder was still one of the primary constituents of the red dyestuff, used according to various dyeing methods which is specific for Iran. Compared to the earlier periods, the said period witnessed a clear increase in the hues of the color red and in the alternation of physical and visual properties. We, therefore, aim to get a better insight into the chemical and physical properties of the component which made it all possible-dyes. To this effect, eighteen red wool samples with various hues were collected from seven Iranian carpets belonging to the aforementioned period (from Ali Mirzaei's private collection) and analyzed using three techniques: reversed-phase-high-performance liquid chromatography (RP-HPLC-DAD), scanning electron microscopy with energy dispersive X-ray spectroscopy (SEM-EDX) and colorimetry. We also studied traditional dying recipes to underpin the scientific process involved. We focused on recipes based on madder, which are mordanted with organic additives such as qarehqurut (a kind of Iranian dairy product; also known as Gharehghorut). These substances, additionally, helped control the acidity of the dyebath; a common technique from the period. The effect of these substances on the hue, the associated red dye chemistry, various visual and physical properties, including color fastness, are reported. Our study revealed, among other facts, that the additive qarehqurut is highly efficient at improving color absorption and at increasing lightfastness. Another salient finding was that, besides madder, various synthetic dye sources were used by the twentieth century "traditional" Iranian red dyeing industry.

show abstract

Chemical analysis of dyes on an Uzbek ceremonial coat: Objective evidence for artifact dating and the chemistry of early synthetic dyes

Cited by 35 publications

References 22 publications

Analytical characterization of 5,5′-dibromoindigo and its first discovery in a museum textile

Analytical characterization of 5,5′-dibromoindigo and its first discovery in a museum textile

Exploring the transition from natural to synthetic dyes in the production of 19th-century Central Asian ikat textiles

Twentieth century Iranian carpets: investigation of red dye molecules and study of traditional madder dyeing techniques

Contact Info

Product

Resources

About