Buckling of the woven fabric inside an embroidered element

Abstract

Today technologies of embroidery are applied for the production of composite materials, intelligent (smart) clothing or textiles as well as in medicine. In the modern production of garments, embroidery fulfils decorative, informative, and safety functions. The possible best quality of the embroidered element has to be ensured. The woven fabric covered with embroidery threads is compressed and buckled between the needle pricks. Such effects may result not only in relaxation processes in the embroidery threads after the embroidery process but may also affect the properties of the embroidered material. The behaviour of the material inside an embroidered element may result in the thickness of the material and influence its structure, bending rigidity, formability, shear stiffness, etc. Our aim was to investigate the buckling of materials with different physical properties inside embroidered elements. For investigations woven fabrics with different structure and mechanical properties and polyester embroidery threads were selected. The digital design (width 6 mm, length 60 mm) was generated applying Wilcom Embroidery Software 2006 Software Package. An automated embroidery machine Barudan BEVT-Z901CA was used to prepare the specimens. Embroidering process speed of 700 stitches per minute was applied. Six test specimens were embroidered in the warp and weft directions. The investigation showed that fabric structure indicators such as linear filling and linear porosity influence the formation of the height and shape of the buckling waves inside the embroidered element.

Analysis on the Conformity between the Closed-Circuit Embroidery Elements of Different Widths and the Digitally Designed Elements

“…The filling indexes are not dependent on the sort of the weave of the fabric and the size of the repeat, since they are limited by the same neighboring warp and weft threads' sides, they supplement the characteristics of the fabric density. Fabrics possessing greater value indexes of linear filling can be characterized as having smaller deformations [2,17]. This explains the obtained results width of the closed-circuit square-form embroidery elements in the corners in most cases is obtained, bigger than in other spots of the contour [7].…”

“…In the researches performed by other scientists, it has compresses, crushes textile material, then it penetrates deeper, disrupts its structure, moves its fibers. The stronger activities of thread sliding are related to the increased filling area and also to the number of times when the needle comes out of the fabric [5][6][7]17]. That gives ground to the identified defect of thread sliding in the seam, which have been obtained accomplishing the widest 22 mm contour embroidery elements, where lines of stitches are longer than those in the other tested widths of the embroidery elements.…”

“…The peculiarity of the plain weave fabrics is that threads of the same type get in contact with each other in all intersection corners of the elements of the system, and because of this reason it is impossible to eliminate any gaps between the threads. Therefore, this weave is the busiest and its coefficient is the biggest, equal to 1 [16][17][18][19][20]. While accomplishing the embroidery element of a bigger contour width, the systems are affected mechanically longer than while embroidering a smaller one, as a consequence, the change in the structure of the fabric increases.…”

The Research on the Accuracy of the Geometrical Parameters of the Closed-Circuit Embroidery Element

“…While joining longer successions of stitches by using type T filling, the upper sewing thread more times passes the eye of the needle than in shorter successions of stitches; therefore, the embroidery elements of wider closed contour are more affected mechanically. During the process while making the stitches, stretching is performed vertically towards the direction of the system, the embroidery system is not only stretched, but crushed as well [12,17]. It is obvious from the results of the experiment that in most cases the width of the element Fc in all researched fabrics and the inside width FIc are obtained different in relation to the thread system and a greater change is determined in warp direction.…”

Evaluation of stitch length accuracy of embroidery machine by different speed and step

“…There are many publications dedicated to the influence of technological and design parameters on the embroidery quality [1][2][3][4][5][6][7]. In [1] a case study on the defects in industrial manufacturing of embroidered textiles is done.…”