Purpose-The paper aims to evaluate the influence of mechanical properties of sewing threads on the seam pucker. Design/methodology/approach-The mechanical properties of sewing thread were obtained performing tensile testing research. The seam pucker of lightweight fabric was evaluated after sewing, then after 24 h, after 48 h as well as after washing and drying. To determine dimension changes of fabric, the relaxation shrinkage was calculated. The results of thread properties and seam pucker were compared. Findings-In respect of seam pucker the best results were established sewing with polyester threads, the reversible strain of which were the least. After washing and drying, the highest pucker was typical of the specimens sewn with cotton sewing threads. It was noticed that increasing the amount of layers in sewing the influence of threads on seam pucker decreases. Washing and drying made considerably greater influence on the occurrence of pucker then time. Practical implications-This study has practical implications in the clothing and other nearly related industries. In the paper recommendations involved with application of sewing thread and evaluation of seam pucker are presented. Originality/value-In most cases the changes of sewn thread mechanical properties after sewing is analysed. This study is aimed to determine the influence of thread properties on seam pucker. Recommendations in the area of sewing thread and garment quality are based on the research.
Purpose Production and consumption of textile garments contribute significantly to environment problems. The purpose of this paper is to perform the evaluation of textile waste generated at Lithuanian clothing enterprises based on statistical data analysis and business cases studies. Design/methodology/approach For the evaluation of real situation of waste generation in companies, an original methodology was developed and used during investigation. In order to get an overall view, statistical data of waste generation and management in Lithuania were also analysed. Waste accounting covered data such as wastes from unprocessed textile fibres and wastes from processed textile fibres and textiles (not otherwise specified). Findings The investigation showed that the amount of cutting waste reaches 20-25 per cent of the total quantity of materials used for production. It was found that the waste is not sorted in Lithuanian clothing enterprises and is disposed in landfills in most cases, notwithstanding the positive tendencies of recycling of waste that were observed during past year. However, a practical recycling strategy and broader perception of developing products with greater added value from waste are missing in Lithuania. Originality/value In this research, a simple methodology was developed for determining the quantity of the textile waste generated by enterprises, the introduction of which would allow us to expect better results in waste accounting and management. The results of investigation are useful to gain in-depth understanding of waste generation in various countries.
Purpose The purpose of this paper is to determine the influence made by complex finishing of denim fabrics, i.e. laser treatment and industrial washing, on the change in tension properties of fabric. Design/methodology/approach Test specimens were treated by a laser JG-10050. Lasers main technological parameters: maximum laser beam power is 65 W, laser types are hermetic and detached CO2, laser tube wavelength is 10.62 µm. The test specimens processed by different laser energy density have been exposed to industrial washing and their tensile characteristics have been investigated. Findings The results of the research have demonstrated that complex finishing reduces the breaking force; however, material extensibility remains almost unchanged. Mechanical behaviour and composition characteristics of fabric are determined both by laser motion direction in respect of warp or weft and laser energy density. Originality/value The carried-out analysis of scientific literature has shown that the effect of laser on the fabric surface is relevant both in scientific and practical terms: the scientific literature contains studies on absorptive properties of laser treated materials; however, the behaviour of materials after complex finishing has not been widely investigated thus far.
Today we can clearly see the damage which is caused by fast fashion production and mass consumption. Therefore, a relevant issue is how to reduce consumption, waste, and threat to the environment and human health. Research into the slow fashion designers' approach towards ecofriendly and slow fashion products shows that it is necessary to spread ideas of slow fashion widely and teach users about ecologically friendly clothing. Therefore, this paper analyses theoretical and practical slow fashion principles applied by slow fashion designers; according to this, the collection 'Just Share' was created. The aim of the collection is to spread ideas of slow fashion and adapt them in specific technical projects dealing with the problems of use and production waste minimisation and creating sustainable, easily recyclable, environmentally friendly garments. Products for reducing consumption are developed based on the idea of sharing clothing. Therefore, garments are one size and suitable for different types of figures of men and women. Clothing design is inspired by folding, so models have various pleats, which allow minimal transformation of the garment giving the product its individuality and extending time of wearing. Models are designed with a minimal amount of accessories and minimum division lines, maintaining the uniformity of materials and uncomplicated sewing technology. In this way, timeworn garments can be easily remade. Original constructions of models are based on the 'zero waste' principle. This method reduces waste generation. So this research was prepared using the principles of slow fashion, which has a potential to reduce excessive consumption and stop growth of textile waste.
The constantly encouraged worldwide production and consumption of textile products is leading to an increase in wastes, which causes environmental problems. This research is aimed at identifying the present state of textile waste generation and treatment in Lithuania and compare the trends obtained with other EU countries. The investigation is based on statistical data of textile waste generation and management from 2009 to 2014 in Lithuania. Municipal textile wastes and those from the leather, fur and textile industries as well as other fields of this kind of waste generation were taken for analysis. On average, 6500 tonnes per year of total textile waste was generated during the period analysed. According to these data, Lithuania is in a middle position in comparison with other EU countries. A significant growth in the collection of municipal wastes is observed. From 2012, pre-consumer textile waste amounts to on average 32 percent of the total textile waste collected. The dominant practice of treatment was disposal in landfills, but an increasing tendency to recycle textile waste was observed. Nevertheless a great deal more effort should be made to promote the prevention of waste production and to achieve the average EU waste management indicators.
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