Analysis of Tests Evaluating Sport Climbers’ Strength and Isometric Endurance

Ozimek, Mariusz; Staszkiewicz, Robert; Rokowski, Robert; Stanula, Arkadiusz

doi:10.1515/hukin-2016-0027

Cited by 27 publications

(34 citation statements)

References 19 publications

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“…The specific test used in this study included ledge hangs and pull up holds for a duration of time, which assessed more advanced grips and activated more muscle groups used during climbing than just the simple handgrip dynamometer test. The results from these climbing specific tests showed a greater correlation to climbing ability when compared to the results from the hand grip dynamometer 10 .…”

Section: Handgrip Strength In Sport Climbingmentioning

confidence: 75%

Handgrip Fatigue and Forearm Girth in Intermediate Sport Rock Climbers

MacDonald¹,

Manning²,

Lee³

et al. 2019

Medicine &Amp; Science in Sports &Amp; Exercise

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iii Abstract Handgrip fatigue and forearm girth in intermediate sport rock climbers Background: Rock climbing has been increasing in popularity both recreationally and competitively. Indoor sport rock climbing is a type of climbing where the climber ascends a wall using artificial rocks (hand and foot holds) and is attached to a safety rope. Despite this increase in popularity of the sport, the physiological responses to sport climbing as an exercise to specific muscle groups are not well defined in literature. Purpose: The purpose of this study was to quantify the change in handgrip strength over a 30-minute bout of continuous climbing, specifically in intermediate sport climbers. An additional aim of this study was to quantify any change in forearm girth over a bout of climbing and compare it to the change in strength and to identify if there is a relationship between the two. Methods: Ten intermediate rock climbers [Age: 26.7±6.7 years; Height: 174.5±6.12 cm; Mass: 68.14±8.21 kg; Body Fat %: 15.75± .63 %; Years Climbing: 7.3±4.69 years;] consented to participate and completed baseline handgrip strength (via handgrip dynamometer) and forearm girth (via tape measure) measurements. A climbing questionnaire indicated their rock climbing ability and defined them as intermediate climbers. Each participant ascended one of two 5.9 routes as many times as possible in 30 minutes. After each ascent, heart rate was taken via 15 second radial palpation and handgrip strength and forearm girth was measured. Data were analyzed using repeated measures ANOVA and correlation at the p < .05 level. Results: Dominant handgrip strength decreased by 22% and non-dominant handgrip strength decreased by 23%. Dominant and non-dominant forearm girth increased by 4.4%. The average heart rate reached while climbing was 71±4.2 % of agepredicted HRmax. Conclusion: Our results show that over a 30 minute bout of climbing, intermediate sport climbers' handgrip strength decreases and forearm girth increases. iv

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Section: Handgrip Strength In Sport Climbingmentioning

confidence: 75%

Handgrip Fatigue and Forearm Girth in Intermediate Sport Rock Climbers

MacDonald¹,

Manning²,

Lee³

et al. 2019

Medicine &Amp; Science in Sports &Amp; Exercise

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“…Within the familiarisation trial, an adjustable Jamar® Plus+ (Patterson Medical/Sammons Preston, Illinois, USA) digital hand dynamometer was used to record handgrip maximum voluntary contraction (MVC) (Ozimek, Staszkiewicz, Rokowski, & Stanula, 2016). The participants were seated without leaning with an elbow flexion of 90°, a slight shoulder abduction of about 15°, and the forearms in a neutral supination/pronation position (Trampisch, Franke, Jedamzik, Hinrichs, & Platen, 2012).…”

Section: Experimental Designmentioning

confidence: 99%

Acute effects of kinesio taping on muscular strength and endurance parameters of the finger flexors in sport climbing: A randomised, controlled crossover trial

Limmer

Buck

Marées

et al. 2019

European Journal of Sport Science

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Kinesio taping (KT) is a commonly used intervention in sports and, recently, KT has become popular among athletes competing in sport climbing and bouldering events. However, evidence on the effect of KT on grip strength and endurance is still controversial. Therefore, the purpose of this study was to evaluate immediate effects of KT on muscular strength and endurance of the finger flexor muscles in sport climbers. Twenty recreationally-trained active sport climbers (10 men, 10 women) aged 28.5 ± 10.6 years performed one familiarisation trial and subsequently, in a randomised crossover design, two test trials either with (TAPE) or without (CONTROL) KT over the finger flexor muscles. Test trials consisted of three performance measurements (hand grip strength and endurance, finger hang, and lap climbing) at intervals of 48 h in a randomised order. We observed no significant differences in the parameters of hand grip peak force, fatigue index, finger hang time, lap climbing distance and time, or maximum blood lactate values after lap climbing between the TAPE and CONTROL trials (p > 0.05). The participants' climbing ability was significantly correlated with the intra-individual performance changes between the TAPE and CONTROL conditions for the fatigue index (r = −0.598, p = 0.005), but not in any of the other performance-related parameters. Therefore, KT over the finger flexor muscles neither enhanced hand grip strength and endurance nor the sport climbing performance parameters of finger hang, lap climbing distance and time, and maximum blood lactate values after lap climbing.

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“…Nevertheless, based on these studies, it was difficult to judge the importance of finger and arm strength for achieving the 8c RP climbing level. Ozimek et al [ 9 ] attempted to solve this problem in their study, which demonstrated that finger strength in elite climbers correlates significantly with climbing level; however, no correlation was observed for arm strength. The above study results suggest that in terms of strength abilities, finger strength is important in differentiating professional climbers and enables climbers to achieve the 8c RP climbing level.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

The role of physique, strength and endurance in the achievements of elite climbers

Ozimek¹,

Rokowski²,

Draga

et al. 2017

PLoS ONE

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PurposeThe primary aim of this study is to determine the principal somatic and motor determinants for elite climbers.MethodsTwenty climbers were examined [age: 28.5±6.1 years].The runners were divided into two groups based on their climbing level, according to the International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA). Elite climbers represented a 8b-8c Rotpunkt (RP) climbing level (n = 6), and advanced climbers represented an 7c+-8a RP level (n = 14). The following measurements were assessed: height, weight, lean body mass, upper limb length, arm span, and forearm, arm, thigh and calf circumference. The BMI, Rohrer ratio, and Ape Index were also measured. The following motor tests were assessed: a specific test for finger strength, an arm strength test, and a test of muscle endurance (hanging from 2.5 and 4 cm ledges). In addition, pull ups were used to measure muscle resistance to fatigue.ResultsElite climbers recorded significantly higher values for finger strength than advanced climbers (129.08 vs. 111.54 kg; t(18) = 2.35, p = 0.03) and arm endurance (33.17 vs. 25.75 pull ups; t(18) = 2.54, p = 0.02). In addition, the calf circumference was significantly lower in elite climbers than that in advanced climbers (34.75 vs. 36.93 cm; t(18) = 3.50, p = 0.003).ConclusionThe results suggest that elite climbers have greater finger strength and arm endurance than advanced climbers.

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Analysis of Tests Evaluating Sport Climbers’ Strength and Isometric Endurance

Cited by 27 publications

References 19 publications

Handgrip Fatigue and Forearm Girth in Intermediate Sport Rock Climbers

Handgrip Fatigue and Forearm Girth in Intermediate Sport Rock Climbers

Acute effects of kinesio taping on muscular strength and endurance parameters of the finger flexors in sport climbing: A randomised, controlled crossover trial

The role of physique, strength and endurance in the achievements of elite climbers

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