Handgrip Fatigue and Forearm Girth in Intermediate Sport Rock Climbers

Abstract

iii Abstract Handgrip fatigue and forearm girth in intermediate sport rock climbers Background: Rock climbing has been increasing in popularity both recreationally and competitively. Indoor sport rock climbing is a type of climbing where the climber ascends a wall using artificial rocks (hand and foot holds) and is attached to a safety rope. Despite this increase in popularity of the sport, the physiological responses to sport climbing as an exercise to specific muscle groups are not well defined in literature. Purpose: The purpose of this study was to quantify the change in handgrip strength over a 30-minute bout of continuous climbing, specifically in intermediate sport climbers. An additional aim of this study was to quantify any change in forearm girth over a bout of climbing and compare it to the change in strength and to identify if there is a relationship between the two. Methods: Ten intermediate rock climbers [Age: 26.7±6.7 years; Height: 174.5±6.12 cm; Mass: 68.14±8.21 kg; Body Fat %: 15.75± .63 %; Years Climbing: 7.3±4.69 years;] consented to participate and completed baseline handgrip strength (via handgrip dynamometer) and forearm girth (via tape measure) measurements. A climbing questionnaire indicated their rock climbing ability and defined them as intermediate climbers. Each participant ascended one of two 5.9 routes as many times as possible in 30 minutes. After each ascent, heart rate was taken via 15 second radial palpation and handgrip strength and forearm girth was measured. Data were analyzed using repeated measures ANOVA and correlation at the p < .05 level. Results: Dominant handgrip strength decreased by 22% and non-dominant handgrip strength decreased by 23%. Dominant and non-dominant forearm girth increased by 4.4%. The average heart rate reached while climbing was 71±4.2 % of agepredicted HRmax. Conclusion: Our results show that over a 30 minute bout of climbing, intermediate sport climbers' handgrip strength decreases and forearm girth increases. iv

Change in grip strength, hang time, and knot tying speed after 24 hours of endurance rock climbing

“…The results from this study add to the pool of knowledge on handgrip strength change in rock climbers, which has been shown to decrease 22% in 5.12a climbers climbing until a fall ( 29 ) and 22.1%–23% in 5.9 climbers climbing for 30 min ( 21 ). We found that a 1.9%–9.2% decrease in 5.9 climbers, a 16.2%–20.1% decrease in 5.10d climbers, 14.5%–14.6% decrease in 5.12a climbers, and a 14.8%–15.5% decrease in 5.12b+ climbers over a 24-hour period.…”

“…Grip strength has been shown to decrease by 22.1%–23% after a 30-minute bout of indoor sport rock climbing ( 21 ), grip strength recovers within 10 min after a 2-minute bout of indoor climbing ( 22 ), and maximum hang time has been shown to decrease over eight repeated hangs with 1-minute rest intervals and plateau with 3-minute rest intervals ( 23 ). Outdoor rock climbing on long single-day routes often requires more than 30 min of climbing.…”

Recovery markers in elite climbers after the national boulder climbing championship

“…For instance, the increase in FC after a series of climbing bouts can be attributed to the repetitive isometric contractions of the forearm, leading to a reduction in veins blood flow and an increase in forearm swelling. This, in turn, results in a decrease in strength output as swelling and discomfort intensify when the same muscles are contracted and held repeatedly (35).…”

In Vivo Monitoring of Acute and Intermittent Fatigue in Sport Climbing Using Near-Infrared Spectroscopy Wearable Biosensors

“…As these parameters are easy to measure objectively, they might be suitable for monitoring fatigue. However, little research has been performed regarding the effects of fatigue on the HGS [ 5 ] as well as the CSHT.…”