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2023
DOI: 10.3390/sports11020037
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In Vivo Monitoring of Acute and Intermittent Fatigue in Sport Climbing Using Near-Infrared Spectroscopy Wearable Biosensors

Abstract: The objectification of acute fatigue (during isometric muscle contraction) and cumulative fatigue (due to multiple intermittent isometric muscle contractions) plays an important role in sport climbing. The data of 42 participants were used in the study. Climbing performance was operationalized using maximal climbing-specific holding time (CSHT) by performing dead hangs. The test started with an initial measurement of handgrip strength (HGS) followed by three intermittent measurements of CSHT and HGS. During th… Show more

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Cited by 6 publications
(4 citation statements)
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“…The advances in research using body-worn garments and wearables from recent years have permitted essential findings in different fields. For example, for managing recovery in sports [83][84][85]. However, emerging studies share a focus on healthcare, particularly, regarding the relationship between Heart Rate (HR) and stress, which is the main interest of our study.…”
Section: How Do Wearables Help People Manage Stress?mentioning
confidence: 99%
“…The advances in research using body-worn garments and wearables from recent years have permitted essential findings in different fields. For example, for managing recovery in sports [83][84][85]. However, emerging studies share a focus on healthcare, particularly, regarding the relationship between Heart Rate (HR) and stress, which is the main interest of our study.…”
Section: How Do Wearables Help People Manage Stress?mentioning
confidence: 99%
“…These devices are relatively inexpensive and require minimal technological skills from users to analyze and interpret the data ( 10 ). They have been recently used to monitor SmO 2 during different sport scenarios, such as indoor rock climbing ( 11 ), cross-country skiing ( 12 ), and cycling ( 5 ). However, while there are a large number of studies showing the reliability and sensitivity of NIRS ( 13 , 14 ), data showing the reliability and sensitivity of wearable NIRS devices (wNIRS) are lacking ( 15 , 16 ).…”
Section: Introductionmentioning
confidence: 99%
“…NIRS, is a validated (A. Feldmann et al 2019 ; Ryan et al 2013 ) and non-invasive way to ascertain changes in muscle oxygen saturation (SmO 2 ) and haemoglobin (Hb) within the muscle tissue, allowing real-time measurement to determine athletic performance and to monitor oxidative muscle metabolism (Marcon et al 2011 ; Miura et al 2003 ). In sport climbing, there is a rapid muscle desaturation with the onset of isometric hold followed by rapid recovery after the removal of the contraction (Dindorf et al 2023 ) whereas continuous exercise produces a rapid muscle desaturation followed by a prolonged equilibrium at a lower muscle oxygen level (Hesford et al 2013 ). During incremental cycle exercise, SmO 2 has been shown to drop with increasing workload and correlated to lactate and ventilatory thresholds (A. Feldmann et al 2022 ).…”
Section: Introductionmentioning
confidence: 99%