A Third-Generation Model for Wind Waves on Slowly Varying, Unsteady, and Inhomogeneous Depths and Currents

Tolman, Hendrik L.

doi:10.1175/1520-0485(1991)021<0782:atgmfw>2.0.co;2

Cited by 547 publications

(287 citation statements)

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“…Therefore, the analysis undertaken here would be much simpler if it were possible to assume that deep water wave heights were relatively spatially invariant along the length of the GBR matrix. To investigate whether this assumption could be made, wave data were extracted along the 100 and 2,000 m contours from a 30-yr wave hindcast using WAVEWATCH III (Tolman 1991(Tolman , 2009. The model covered the period from 1979 to 2009 (Durrant et al 2014) and was forced with Climate Forecast System Reanalysis surface winds (CFSR; Saha et al 2010).…”

Section: Wave Heightmentioning

confidence: 99%

The large-scale influence of the Great Barrier Reef matrix on wave attenuation

et al. 2014

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Offshore reef systems consist of individual reefs, with spaces in between, which together constitute the reef matrix. This is the first comprehensive, large-scale study, of the influence of an offshore reef system on wave climate and wave transmission. The focus was on the Great Barrier Reef (GBR), Australia, utilizing a 16-yr record of wave height from seven satellite altimeters. Within the GBR matrix, the wave climate is not strongly dependent on reef matrix submergence. This suggests that after initial wave breaking at the seaward edge of the reef matrix, wave energy that penetrates the matrix has little depth modulation. There is no clear evidence to suggest that as reef matrix porosity (ratio of spaces between individual reefs to reef area) decreases, wave attenuation increases. This is because individual reefs cast a wave shadow much larger than the reef itself; thus, a matrix of isolated reefs is remarkably effective at attenuating wave energy. This weak dependence of transmitted wave energy on depth of reef submergence, and reef matrix porosity, is also evident in the lee of the GBR matrix. Here, wave conditions appear to be dependent largely on local wind speed, rather than wave conditions either seaward, or within the reef matrix. This is because the GBR matrix is a very effective wave absorber, irrespective of water depth and reef matrix porosity.

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Section: Wave Heightmentioning

confidence: 99%

The large-scale influence of the Great Barrier Reef matrix on wave attenuation

et al. 2014

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“…The global WAVEWATCH III (WW3) model, operational at the National Centers for Environmental Prediction (NCEP), was first developed for shelf sea applications by Tolman (1991), and is gaining wide acceptance in the wave forecasting community. It is similar to WAM in structure, but incorporates wave-current interactions, a more sophisticated third-order numerical propagation scheme, new formulations of wind input and dissipation source terms (Tolman and Chalikov, 1996;based on Chalikov and Belevich, 1993).…”

Section: List Of Tablesmentioning

confidence: 99%

Validation of Operational Global Wave Prediction Models with Spectral Buoy Data

Wingeart¹

2002

Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis (2001)

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Public reporting burden for this collection of information is estimated to average 1 hour per response, including the time for reviewing instruction, searching existing data sources, gathering and maintaining the data needed, and completing and reviewing the collection of information. Send comments regarding this burden estimate or any other aspect of this collection of information, including suggestions for reducing this burden, 12b. DISTRIBUTION CODE ABSTRACT (maximum 200 words)Global wave predictions produced at two U. S. forecasting centers, Fleet Numerical Meteorology and Oceanography Center and the National Centers for Environmental Prediction are evaluated with spectral buoy measurements. In this study, the fidelity of frequency-directional spectra predicted by WAM and WAVEWATCH III at the operational centers is examined with data from 3-meter discus and 6-meter nomad buoys operated by the National Data Buoy Center in the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans and Datawell Directional Waverider buoys deployed along the California coast by the Scripps Institution of Oceanography Coastal Data Information Program. Only buoys located in deep water are used in the comparisons. Model nowcasts of frequency spectra and mean wave directions are compared to buoy measurements over a six-month period from 1 October 2000 to 31 March 2001. At the Pacific buoy locations, individual swell events were identified in the spectra from the three models and the buoy data. Predicted and observed swell frequencies and arrival directions are compared as well as the total energy transported past the buoy over the duration of each individual event. At all buoy locations, predicted and observed wave energy fluxes integrated over fixed frequency ranges are compared. All three models yield reliable nowcasts of swell arrivals at the buoy locations. In most cases, the models under-predict the energy measured by the buoys. WAVEWATCH III better resolves low-frequency swells than WAM, possibly owing to a superior numerical scheme. Swell predictions at NCEP forced with AVN winds are more accurate than those at FNMOC forced with NOGAPS winds. NUMBER OF PAGES 57 SUBJECT TERMS Global Wave Prediction Models, WAM, WAVEWATCH III, swell, wave PRICE CODE SECURITY CLASSIFICATION OF REPORT Unclassified SECURITY CLASSIFICATION OF THIS PAGE Unclassified SECURITY CLASSIFICATION OF ABSTRACT Unclassified LIMITATION OF ABSTRACT UL

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“…The models of this type, such as WAM 1988, Komen et al, 1994) and WaveWatch III (Tolman, 1991(Tolman, , 1997 This provided a tool for modeling of waves, tides and storm surges caused by hurricanes ( Fleming et al, 2013).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%