Many prograded barriers and some dunefields in the world have been termed 'beach ridge' plains, but the actual genesis of the 'ridges' is often unknown. Use of the terms, berms, beach ridges and foredunes is also confusing in the literature because their definitions are highly variable and are commonly used interchangeably. Thus, the formation and definition of sand berms, beach ridges and foredunes is briefly reviewed. Beach ridges are re-defined as entirely wave formed deposits which are most commonly formed during high wave conditions and/or elevated water levels (e.g. storm surges). Foredunes are formed by aeolian sand deposition in vegetation on the backshore. Some dunefields in Brazil have been called beach ridge plains when they are, in fact, foredune plains, transgressive dunefields, or complex barriers (i.e. barriers comprising two types of dunes). The Holocene barrier extending from Torres to Tramandaí in southern Brazil has been regarded as a beach ridge plain. The landforms of this Holocene barrier comprise wide, relatively linear, widely spaced (400-600m), shore parallel ridges on the landward half, and more closely spaced (80-400m), lobate and crescentic, discrete ridges on the seaward half. Low, rolling dunefields, sand sheets, nebkha fields and deflation plains occur between the ridges. The barrier is re-interpreted as a prograded, transgressive dunefield barrier.

No abstract

No abstract

No abstract

Investigations of headland sand bypassing is still an under-reported subject in the literature. This paper aims to understand the contribution of currents forced by different mechanisms such as tides, winds (i.e. local wind acting over the ocean surface generating currents, without considering wave generation) and waves (as they approach/break on the coast) to headland sand bypassing. The study was carried out in an area comprising a series of seven headlands with varying wave exposure due to changes in shoreline orientation and increasing tidal influence close to a relatively large bay. This paper uses a calibrated and validated processbased model (Delft3D) to simulate a series of scenarios including spring and neap tides during flood and ebb conditions and a range of wind and wave scenarios that encompass both average and extreme conditions. The results indicate that waves are the main driving force for the headland bypassing as they transport sand at rates two orders of magnitude higher than tide-or wind-driven sediment transport. The tide-driven currents can only transport sediment during spring tides in locations where the currents are intensified. It is also demonstrated that the wave direction plays an important role in sediment transport. In exposed areas with larger headlands a combination of wave directions is required to first transport sediment offshore (out of the beach) and secondly to transport sediment alongshore and back to the next beach.Whereas in areas with little variation in wave direction exposure, the same oblique wave direction is responsible for the entire headland bypassing process. This is the first time the contribution of tide-, winds-and wave-generated sediment transport to headland bypassing have been studied.

No abstract

A B S T R A C TEstuarine hydrodynamics is a key factor in the definition of the filtering capacity of an estuary and results from the interaction of the processes that control the inlet morphodynamics and those that are acting in the mixing of the water in the estuary. The hydrodynamics and suspended sediment transport in the Camboriú estuary were assessed by two field campaigns conducted in 1998 that covered both neap and spring tide conditions. The period measured represents the estuarine hydrodynamics and sediment transport prior to the construction of the jetty in 2003 and provides important background information for the Camboriú estuary. Each field campaign covered two complete tidal cycles with hourly measurements of currents, salinity, suspended sediment concentration and water level. Results show that the Camboriú estuary is partially mixed with the vertical structure varying as a function of the tidal range and tidal phase. The dynamic estuarine structure can be balanced between the stabilizing effects generated by the vertical density gradient, which produces buoyancy and stratification flows, and the turbulent effects generated by the vertical velocity gradient that generates vertical mixing. The main sediment source for the water column are the bottom sediments, periodically resuspended by the tidal currents. The advective salt and suspended sediment transport was different between neap and spring tides, being more complex at spring tide. The river discharge term was important under both tidal conditions. The tidal correlation term was also important, being dominant in the suspended sediment transport during the spring tide. The gravitational circulation and Stokes drift played a secondary role in the estuarine transport processes. R E S U M OAs trocas de água e materiais através das desembocaduras de estuários são de difícil quantificação e são de fundamental importância para o entendimento do funcionamento de estuários e da zona costeira. A hidrodinâmica e transporte de sedimentos em suspensão no estuário do rio Camboriú foram estudados através da realização de duas campanhas de campo em 1998 cobrindo as condições de quadratura e sizígia. O período do levantamento foi anterior à obra de construção do molhe em 2003 que alterou a morfologia da desembocadura, fornecendo assim importantes informações base sobre o sistema. Cada experimento cobriu dois ciclos de maré com medições horárias de correntes, salinidade, concentrações de sedimentos em suspensão e nível de água. Os resultados mostram que o estuário é parcialmente misturado com estrutura vertical variando em função da amplitude e fase da maré. A estrutura dinâmica do estuário é balanceada entre os efeitos estabilizadores gerados pelo gradiente vertical de densidade, que permite produzir fluxo de empuxo e estratificação, e os efeitos turbulentos gerados pelo gradiente vertical de velocidade, que gera mistura vertical. A principal fonte de sedimentos para a coluna de água são os sedimentos de fundo, periodicamente resuspendidos pelas correntes de ...

In an era of global rising sea level quantifying future shoreline behaviour is a key societal concern. The potential for dramatic shoreline change via overstepping or barrier disintegration on barrierlagoon coasts as a result of future rapid sea level rise has been considered by various authors, but documented examples of barrier overstepping generally involve either coarse grain sizes or early diagenesis as beachrock. Where overstepping has been inferred, the overstepped barrier is seldom preserved. Using high resolution seismic data we describe the mid-Holocene overstepping of a sandy coastal barrier system and subsequent geomorphological changes that ultimately transformed it into a strandplain fronted by amuddy shoreface. This complete change in character is interpreted in the context of rapid sea level rise (tentatively linked to the 8.2 ka event) during which the former sandy shoreface-barrier was overstepped and decoupled from the contemporary shoreline, leaving the latter sand-starved. Upon overstepping, the wave-influenced shoreline was displaced rapidly to the landward margin of the former lagoon. Preservation of the overstepped uncohesive sandy barrier is attributed to the relatively wave-sheltered location, rapid sea level rise and rapid burial by shoreface sediments. This situation provides an insight into the conditions under which overstepping occurs, and thereby, the future response of barrier lagoon systems to predicted rapid rates of future sea level rise.