Studies of climate change typically consider measurements or predictions of temperature over extended periods of time. Climate, however, is much more than temperature. Over the oceans, changes in wind speed and the surface gravity waves generated by such winds play an important role. We used a 23-year database of calibrated and validated satellite altimeter measurements to investigate global changes in oceanic wind speed and wave height over this period. We find a general global trend of increasing values of wind speed and, to a lesser degree, wave height, over this period. The rate of increase is greater for extreme events as compared to the mean condition.
A series of spatial wave images recorded by a conventional marine radar is analyzed to determine the three‐dimensional E(kx, ky, ω) spectrum. In the absence of a surface current the spectral energy in this three‐dimensional wave number frequency space will lie on a shell defined by the dispersion relationship. Any deviation from the expected dispersion relationship can be interpreted as being due to a current induced Doppler shift of the wave frequency. A least squares curve fitting technique is used to determine the surface current required to account for the observed Doppler shift. A comparison of the radar determined spectra and surface currents with ground truth data indicates that the radar system and analysis technique produces results consistent with conventional instrumentation.
In this study, global satellite data were analyzed to determine trends in oceanic wind speed and significant wave height over the 33-year period from 1985 to 2018. The analysis uses an extensive database obtained from 31 satellite missions comprising three types of instruments—altimeters, radiometers, and scatterometers. The analysis shows small increases in mean wind speed and significant wave height over this period, with larger increases in extreme conditions (90th percentiles). The largest increases occur in the Southern Ocean. Confidence in the results is strengthened because the wind speed trends are confirmed by all three satellite systems. An extensive set of sensitivity analyses confirms that both the mean and 90th percentile trends are robust, with only small impacts caused by satellite calibration and sampling patterns.
Nearly all of the momentum transferred from wind to waves comes about through wave-induced pressure acting on the slopes of waves: known as form drag. Direct field measurements of the wave-induced pressure in airflow over water waves are difficult and consequently rare. Those that have been reported are for deep water conditions and conditions in which the level of forcing, measured by the ratio of wind speed to the speed of the dominant (spectral peak) waves, is quite weak, U10/cp < 3. The data reported here were obtained over a large shallow lake during the Australian Shallow Water Experiment (AUSWEX). The propagation speeds of the dominant waves were limited by depth and the waves were correspondingly steep. This wider range of forcing and concomitant wave steepness revealed some new aspects of the rate of wave amplification by wind, the so-called wind input source function, in the energy balance equation for wind-driven water waves. It was found that the exponential growth rate parameter (fractional energy increase per radian) depended on the slope of the waves, ak, vanishing as ak → 0. For very strong forcing a condition of “full separation” occurs, where the airflow detaches from the crests and reattaches on the windward face leaving a separation zone over the leeward face and the troughs. In a sense, the outer flow does not “see” the troughs and the resulting wave-induced pressure perturbation is much reduced, leading to a reduction in the wind input source function relative to that obtained by extrapolation from more benign conditions. The source function parameterized on wave steepness and degree of separation is shown to be in agreement with previous field and laboratory data obtained in conditions of much weaker forcing and wave steepness. The strongly forced steady-state conditions of AUSWEX have enabled the authors to define a generalized wind input source function that is suitable for a wide range of conditions.
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