A Study of Automated Custom Fit: Readiness of the Technology for the Apparel Industry

Ashdown, Susan P.; Dunne, Lucy E.

doi:10.1177/0887302x0602400206

Cited by 82 publications

(84 citation statements)

References 5 publications

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“…Knowledge of body-to-pattern relationships that produce good fit is necessary for these systems to produce accurate custom garment patterns (DeLong et al 1993, Ashdown and Dunne 2006, Petrova and Ashdown 2008, Hu et al 2009). For example, Chen (2006) tested a computerised patterndrafting system that used body measurements to draft basic garment block patterns.…”

Section: Unrecorded Knowledge In the Patternmaking Processmentioning

confidence: 98%

“…Capturing this unrecorded theoretical knowledge is necessary for the training of future designers and patternmakers to reduce/eliminate the time spent in the fitting process, to reduce waste of human and material resources and to move automated, computer-generated garment-aided pattern-drafting forward (DeLong et al 1993, Ashdown and Dunne 2006, Petrova and Ashdown 2008, Hu et al 2009). It is critical that the knowledge of practice that resides in individual patternmakers be captured in the larger body of design knowledge (Bye 2010).…”

Section: Proposed Solutionmentioning

confidence: 98%

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Building patternmaking theory: a case study of published patternmaking practices for pants

McKinney

Bye

LaBat

2012

International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Educati

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Garment development is an iterative process centred on patternmaking to resolve fit and production problems. Each time a sample garment is revised adds time and expense to garment development. Understanding the relationships among garment fit variables is essential to advancing the process of garment development especially with respect to programming computer-aided patternmaking systems accurately. Fit experts utilise their practical knowledge, but it is generally unrecorded, while patternmaking texts provide information on body-to-pattern variable relationships that is not well documented. Building patternmaking theory can ground the practice and lead to a better understanding of body-to-pattern relationships. This study compared published patternmaking specifications for ease, shaping devices and crotch curve shape against pants' patterns custom-fit by experts for seven female participants of similar body size and age representing purposefully selected body shapes. In contrast to the singular directive specifications in the patternmaking texts, variation was required for all cases to achieve acceptable fit, with some variations related to body shape.

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Section: Unrecorded Knowledge In the Patternmaking Processmentioning

confidence: 98%

Section: Proposed Solutionmentioning

confidence: 98%

Building patternmaking theory: a case study of published patternmaking practices for pants

McKinney

Bye

LaBat

2012

International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Educati

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

show abstract

“…The fit issue is more than a measurement issue because consumers' preferences for fit play an important role in their satisfaction with garments. Ashdown and Dunne's (2006) results showed that participants' body shapes and fit preferences had influences on successful custom garment development. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the customization process and the impact of fit preference on a successful outcome.…”

mentioning

confidence: 99%

Mass Customization: Perceptions of Related Technologies and Resulting Product

Guo

Istook

2017

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There is no recognized sizing system that is used from one company to the next. However, consumers still have difficulty finding garments that fit. Apparel returns are at an all-time high due to consumer dissatisfaction with fit (Dockterman, 2016). Research has shown that there are significant shape differences among females (Simmons, Istook, & Devarajan, 2004) that complicates the industry's ability to consistently fit all women across all styles. In addition, the growing concern about sustainability makes it important that manufacturers create products that will meet the needs of consumers, rather than remain in stock and ultimately discarded when they don't sell. In a response the problem of overstocked product, with underserved consumers, some apparel companies have implemented mass customization processes into their product design and development to achieve better fit for their target consumers using CAD technologies (Istook, 2002). The fit issue is more than a measurement issue because consumers' preferences for fit play an important role in their satisfaction with garments. Ashdown and Dunne's (2006) results showed that participants' body shapes and fit preferences had influences on successful custom garment development. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the customization process and the impact of fit preference on a successful outcome. MethodologyA simple princess line shift dress was developed for a class project of Fashion Product Analysis. A fit model, who represents target consumers aged 18-25 and an hourglass shape, was selected for the mass custom pattern development. Since body scanning measurement extraction was faster and more reliable than self-measurement (Ashdown & Dunne, 2006), the fit model was scanned using a 3D whole body scanner to obtain her measurements. The fit model's body measurements were set as the basic (sample) size to draft a basic torso block with bust and waist darts, using industry pattern making software. A muslin prototype of the block was assembled and evaluated for fit on the model. After several fit adjustments and a redevelopment to a princess line shift to remove the darts, a final garment pattern was achieved. The final pattern was graded using standard grading rules. Alteration rules were created to enable the pattern to be adjusted for custom measurements and a sizing table was created to categorize body measurements into specific sizes. Therefore, measurements were aligned with the alteration rules, grade rules and size code table values.Twenty-one participants were body scanned and measurements for the bust, waist, hip, back-waist length, waist to knee length and waist to hip length were extracted for each. Customized garments were created for each of the participants using an industry Made-toMeasure (MTM) process that integrated participants' measurements, size code tables, grading, and alteration rules.To investigate participants' perceptions of their body shapes and fit preferences, three surveys were conducted. The first survey was related to the body...

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“…As to other ready-made apparels, fit is the most crucial aspect in ensuring consumers satisfaction. Dissatisfaction of consumer with fit aspect of the ready-made apparel can be solved by using advanced technologies [3,4].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Establishing a Sizing System for Ready To Wear Hijab A Methodology for Facial Measurement

Syuhaidah¹

2016

Fifth International Conference on Advances in Applied Science and Environmental Engineering - ASEE 2016

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Through the years, hijab making industries in Malaysia have witness rapid growth due to increase awareness among Malaysian Muslim women to cover their heads as required in Islam religion. Ready-to-Wear (RTW) hijab has been among the preferences of today's women due to its easy-to-wear character and variety of styles offered. This paper discusses the methodology for measuring facial dimensions in order to create facial anthropometric database for Malaysian women age between 18 to 30 years old. The study aims towards the establishment of a sizing system of RTW hijab for Malaysian market.

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A Study of Automated Custom Fit: Readiness of the Technology for the Apparel Industry

Cited by 82 publications

References 5 publications

Building patternmaking theory: a case study of published patternmaking practices for pants

Building patternmaking theory: a case study of published patternmaking practices for pants

Mass Customization: Perceptions of Related Technologies and Resulting Product

Establishing a Sizing System for Ready To Wear Hijab A Methodology for Facial Measurement

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