Building patternmaking theory: a case study of published patternmaking practices for pants

Abstract

Garment development is an iterative process centred on patternmaking to resolve fit and production problems. Each time a sample garment is revised adds time and expense to garment development. Understanding the relationships among garment fit variables is essential to advancing the process of garment development especially with respect to programming computer-aided patternmaking systems accurately. Fit experts utilise their practical knowledge, but it is generally unrecorded, while patternmaking texts provide information on body-to-pattern variable relationships that is not well documented. Building patternmaking theory can ground the practice and lead to a better understanding of body-to-pattern relationships. This study compared published patternmaking specifications for ease, shaping devices and crotch curve shape against pants' patterns custom-fit by experts for seven female participants of similar body size and age representing purposefully selected body shapes. In contrast to the singular directive specifications in the patternmaking texts, variation was required for all cases to achieve acceptable fit, with some variations related to body shape.

Not All Body Scanning Measurements Are Valid: Perspectives from Pattern Practice

“…Methods were informed by earlier studies into pattern construction [1], [5]- [7] where dimensions had been captured and analysis undertaken of the draft process. However, even existing studies have not given thorough consideration to the measurements and how they might be defined between different measurement instruments.…”

“…Currently pattern drafting remains a manual task often performed using one of a number of different methods. Analysis of pattern drafting methods has been undertaken to determine ease [7], understand theories incorporated into the process [5], and even to show how approaches can better recognise the individual size, shape, and proportions used in the process [6]. However there have been no studies focused on how body scanning technology directly informs existing methods of pattern drafting.…”

Stretch to fit – made to fit†

“…The realisation of a better theoretical understanding and a comprehensive body of knowledge of the body-to-pattern relationships that provide good fit has tremendous implications for apparel design educators, students, and practitioners. More accurate patternmaking methods could greatly reduce or eliminate the time and expense of multiple fittings to perfect a garment pattern (McKinney, Bye, & LaBat, 2012).…”

Effects of Working Experience of Patternmaker with a Designer on the Efficiency and Performance of Clothing Design

“…A common framework for bra patternmaking was described in one study, along with variations in individual work methods [7]. The patternmaking process for pants was also investigated, taking into account the specifications of published patternmaking methods [5]. However, implicit specifications depending on a common understanding between the designer and the patternmaker remained unclear.…”

“…Information and communication technology such as cloud CAD system and e-mail is used. Therefore, understanding the nature of these interactions is necessary for both fashion business management and manufacturing [4,5]. In particular, the gathering and processing of information between designers and patternmakers is important to enable efficient fashion creation and manufacturing [6].…”