Mass Customization: Perceptions of Related Technologies and Resulting Product

Abstract

There is no recognized sizing system that is used from one company to the next. However, consumers still have difficulty finding garments that fit. Apparel returns are at an all-time high due to consumer dissatisfaction with fit (Dockterman, 2016). Research has shown that there are significant shape differences among females (Simmons, Istook, & Devarajan, 2004) that complicates the industry's ability to consistently fit all women across all styles. In addition, the growing concern about sustainability makes it important that manufacturers create products that will meet the needs of consumers, rather than remain in stock and ultimately discarded when they don't sell. In a response the problem of overstocked product, with underserved consumers, some apparel companies have implemented mass customization processes into their product design and development to achieve better fit for their target consumers using CAD technologies (Istook, 2002). The fit issue is more than a measurement issue because consumers' preferences for fit play an important role in their satisfaction with garments. Ashdown and Dunne's (2006) results showed that participants' body shapes and fit preferences had influences on successful custom garment development. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the customization process and the impact of fit preference on a successful outcome. MethodologyA simple princess line shift dress was developed for a class project of Fashion Product Analysis. A fit model, who represents target consumers aged 18-25 and an hourglass shape, was selected for the mass custom pattern development. Since body scanning measurement extraction was faster and more reliable than self-measurement (Ashdown & Dunne, 2006), the fit model was scanned using a 3D whole body scanner to obtain her measurements. The fit model's body measurements were set as the basic (sample) size to draft a basic torso block with bust and waist darts, using industry pattern making software. A muslin prototype of the block was assembled and evaluated for fit on the model. After several fit adjustments and a redevelopment to a princess line shift to remove the darts, a final garment pattern was achieved. The final pattern was graded using standard grading rules. Alteration rules were created to enable the pattern to be adjusted for custom measurements and a sizing table was created to categorize body measurements into specific sizes. Therefore, measurements were aligned with the alteration rules, grade rules and size code table values.Twenty-one participants were body scanned and measurements for the bust, waist, hip, back-waist length, waist to knee length and waist to hip length were extracted for each. Customized garments were created for each of the participants using an industry Made-toMeasure (MTM) process that integrated participants' measurements, size code tables, grading, and alteration rules.To investigate participants' perceptions of their body shapes and fit preferences, three surveys were conducted. The first survey was related to the body...

Influence of Size and Fit on Malaysian Apparel Industry Sustainability: A Scoping Review

“…A study by Nestler et al, [21] highlights that the apparel industry is expected to have a high rate of return of 30 to 40 percent, and illfitting garments have become the main reason for returns, which not only affects consumer satisfaction, but also exacerbates the problem of waste in the apparel industry. Guo and Istook [22] further state that consumers often need help finding garments that fit well, which has led to many ill-fitting garments in the market. In addition, Hinčica et al [23] state that the lack of a standardised sizing system and ill-fitting garments seriously affect consumers' perceptions of product quality and overall satisfaction.…”

Landmarking and Measuring for Critical Body Shape Analysis Targeting Garment Fit

“…Technologies to support the apparel industry's transition to fully automated product customization have demonstrated great potential for mass garment customization [81,82,38,83], but our methodologies for quantifying body shape and garment fit are inhibiting automated garment fit [84]. While landmarking and measuring is admittedly a first step in a multi-step process toward mass garment customization, it's direct relationship to the Clone Block TM is foundational towards the required methodologies.…”

An exploratory study of fit and size issues with mass customized men's jackets using 3D body scan and virtual try-on technology

“…Previous studies on apparel mass customization with evaluation of fit and design of actual resulting products had from five to 21 participants. 28,37–40 Based on these numbers of participants from previous studies, the body measurements of the 35 participants in this study were scrutinized. The Korean sizing system for menswear presents chest girth as a key measurement for men's jackets.…”

“…27 Another study has tested mass customized processing by making a customized princess shift dress and integrating participants' body measurements acquired through 3D body scanner. 28 Virtual and augmented reality technologies have also been used for a research study to design footwear for children. 29 Beyond research, some companies have adopted 3D technologies for mass customization.…”