A model for the generation of two‐dimensional surf beat

List, Jeffrey H.

doi:10.1029/91jc03147

Cited by 113 publications

(126 citation statements)

References 33 publications

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“…In this process, energy is transferred from the sea-swell frequencies to the long waves, which ultimately may reach amplitudes near the shore of tens of centimeters and even meters. There are two mechanisms by which long waves are generated: by enhancement over the sloping seabed in the nearshore zone as a result of the continued forcing by the shoaling waves, up to the breakpoint [15,16], or even within the surf zone [17,18]. Alternatively, IG waves may be generated by a moving breakpoint [19], see Figure 2.…”

Section: Generation Of Lw During Short Wave Breakingmentioning

confidence: 99%

Review of Long Wave Dynamics over Reefs and into Ports with Implication for Port Operations

Dongeren

Jong

Lem

et al. 2016

JMSE

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This paper reviews the dynamics of infragravity (long-period) waves over reef systems and the consequences of these waves for operations in ports located behind reefs with particular attention to Western Australia. Swells which originate in the Southern Ocean generate long (infragravity) waves, which propagate to the coast. On the reef edge, the swell waves are largely dissipated, transferring energy to turbulence and heat but also in that process generating long wave energy. The remaining swell waves are dominated by the infragravity waves and propagate towards the mainland and into port basins where they cause moored ship motions with consequences for the operational downtime of the port's operations. When contemplating solutions to mitigate the impact of the long wave problems, these may be addressed from two sides: from the load side (waves) and the strength side (mooring). The former will be discussed in this paper.

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Section: Generation Of Lw During Short Wave Breakingmentioning

confidence: 99%

Review of Long Wave Dynamics over Reefs and into Ports with Implication for Port Operations

Dongeren

Jong

Lem

et al. 2016

JMSE

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“…Mechanisms for generating low-frequency motion at the shoreline include 1) obliquely incident wave groups (Gallagher 1971;Bowen and Guza 1978), 2) timevarying wave breaking (Symonds et al 1982;List 1992), and 3) bound long wave generated by periodical variations of mean water level due to wave groupiness outside the surf zone (Longuet-Higgins and Stewart 1962). In contrast to numerous studies on wave runup, little data are available relating the limit of wave runup with that of the beach-profile change.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Limits of Beach and Dune Erosion in Response to Wave Runup Elucidated from SUPERTANK

Roberts

Wang

Kraus

2007

Coastal Sediments '07

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Abstract:The unique dataset from SUPERTANK is analyzed to examine the upper limit of beach change in response to elevated water level caused by wave runup. Thirty SUPERTANK runs are investigated, including both erosional and accretionary wave conditions under random and monochromatic waves. The upper limit of beach change approximately equals the maximum vertical excursion of swash runup. Exceptions to this direct relationship are those with beach or dune scarps. The vertical extent of wave runup above mean water level on a non-scarped beach is approximately equal to the significant breaking wave height. Scarps substantially limit the uprush of swash motion, resulting in a much reduced maximum runup. Predictions of wave runup are not improved by including a slope-dependent surf-similarity parameter. The limit of wave runup is substantially less for monochromatic waves than for random waves, attributed to absence of low-frequency motion for monochromatic waves.

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“…This is an indication of a surge leading the short wave envelope, explaining results presented by List (1992) and Masselink (1995). Due to particular similarities with the incident breakpoint forced long wave, the leading surge generated during the bound wave shoaling was further analyzed.…”

Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 62%

“…The cross-correlation analysis present by List (1992) for both field data and numerical results showed that on a sloping bottom, and mainly inside the surf zone, the relation between the bound wave and wave envelope are quite different from the expected classical solution. Instead of a negative peak with zero lag, the correlation was divided into two peaks, one positive (leading) and other negative (lagging) around the zero lag.…”

Section: The Positive Part Of the Bound Wavementioning

confidence: 87%

“…The lack of analytical solutions for more complex situations makes the use of phase-resolved numerical models an important tool, allowing a more versatile approach to the problem. Different numerical models have been used to investigate the individual generation mechanisms of surf beat (List, 1992, Madsen et al, 1997, Pomeroy et al, 2012.…”

Section: Numerical Simplification Of Infragravity Wave Dynamicsmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Infragravity wave forcing in the surf and swash zone

Moura¹,

Rolim²

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Infragravity waves, also known as surf beat, are important morphodynamic drivers in shallow water, especially inside the surf and swash zone where the short wave energy is dissipated due to breaking. In the past decades, great progress has been acquired in the understanding of surf beat and its implication in the coastal environments. However, many key features are still not fully understood, especially for complex natural systems. This thesis investigates infragravity wave dynamics in the surf and swash zone through a re-analysis of laboratory data, new numerical modelling and novel field measurements.The generation of infragravity waves in the surf zone is commonly associated with two individual mechanisms: release of second-order group-forced long waves and long waves generated by group-induced surf zone breakpoint oscillations. Both mechanisms are forced by radiation stress gradients, but due to their individual nature, different relationships between short and infragravity waves are expected.Determining these relationships, their effectiveness, and the governing hydrodynamic and morphodynamic conditions for each mechanism is complex. In the field, observations are still, to some extent, limited and generally restrained to small wave conditions. The first part of the thesis presents a comprehensive study of different infragravity wave generation mechanisms that includes a critical literature review, a re-analysis of previous laboratory data and an extensive numerical modelling investigation.This work provided new information about the implication of the different processes associated to bound wave shoaling, release and dissipation. In addition, key aspects related to the propagation patterns of infragravity waves have been identified. From the numerical investigation and the large amount of laboratory data re-analysed, clear and distinct relationships between the breakpoint and shoreline excursion have been established for each generation mechanism. The second part of the thesis presents a novel method to determine the dominant infragravity mechanism in the inner surf and swash zone in the field. In the field, the breakpoint oscillations and the shoreline motion are measured remotely via video and ii their relationship identified via cross-correlation. The identification of the dominant forcing mode, either bound wave or breakpoint, is interpreted based on the specific relationships previously determined.The results of thirteen field data sets collected from three different beaches indicate that, inside the surf zone, the dominance of bound wave or breakpoint forcing is strongly dependent on the surf zone width and the type of short wave breaking.Infragravity generation by bound wave release was stronger for conditions with relatively narrow surf zones and plunging waves; breakpoint forcing was dominant for wider surf zones and spilling breaker conditions, suggesting also that the bound waves remained forced inside the surf zone, being dissipated during short wave breaking. The numerical and laborato...

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A model for the generation of two‐dimensional surf beat

Cited by 113 publications

References 33 publications

Review of Long Wave Dynamics over Reefs and into Ports with Implication for Port Operations

Review of Long Wave Dynamics over Reefs and into Ports with Implication for Port Operations

Limits of Beach and Dune Erosion in Response to Wave Runup Elucidated from SUPERTANK

Infragravity wave forcing in the surf and swash zone

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