This paper assesses the accuracy of 11 existing runup models against field data collected under moderate wave conditions from 11 non-truncated beaches in New South Wales and Queensland, Australia. Beach types spanned the full range of intermediate beach types from low tide terrace to longshore bar and trough. Model predictions for both the 2% runup exceedance (R2%) and maximum runup (Rmax) were highly variable between models, with predictions shown to vary by a factor of 1.5 for the same incident wave conditions. No single model provided the best predictions on all beaches in the dataset. Overall model root mean square errors are of the order of 25% of the R2% value. Models for R2% derived from field data were shown to be more accurate for predicting runup in the field than those developed from laboratory data, which overestimate the field data significantly The most accurate existing models for predicting R2% were those developed by Holman (1986) and Vousdoukas et al. (2012), with mean RMSE errors of 0.30m or 25%. A new "model of models" for R2% was developed from a best fit to the predictions from six existing field and one large scale laboratory R2% data-derived models. It uses the Hunt (1958) scaling parameter � and incorporates a setup parameterisation. This model is shown to be as accurate as the Holman and Vousdoukas et al. models across all tidal stages. It also yielded the smallest maximum error across the dataset. The most accurate predictions for Rmax was given by Hunt (1958) but this still tended to under predict the observed maximum runup obtained for 15-minute records. Mase's (1989) model has larger errors but yields more conservative estimates. Greater observed values of Rmax are expected with increased record length, leading to greater differences with predicted values. Given the large variation in predictions across all models, 2 however, it is clear that predictions by uncalibrated runup models on a given beach may be prone to significant error and this should be considered when using such models for coastal management purposes. It should be noted that in extreme events, which are lacking in the dataset, runup may truncated by beach scarps, cliffs, and dunes, or by overtopping, and, as a result, the probability density functions will have different tail shapes. The uncertainty already present in current models is likely to increase in such conditions.

A novel remote sensing methodology to determine the dominant infragravity mechanism in the inner surf and swash zone in the field is presented. Video observations of the breakpoint motion are correlated with the shoreline motion and inner surf zone water levels to determine the relationship between the time‐varying breakpoint oscillations and the shoreline motion. The results of 13 field data sets collected from three different beaches indicate that, inside the surf zone, the dominance of bound wave or breakpoint forcing is strongly dependent on the surf zone width and the type of short wave breaking. Infragravity generation by bound wave release was stronger for conditions with relatively narrow surf zones and plunging waves; breakpoint forcing was dominant for wider surf zones and spilling breaker conditions.

This paper describes an application of the Boussinesq-type COULWAVE model to study the wave hydrodynamics in the vicinity of a multi-functional artificial reef (MFAR). This reef is under investigation and consists of a supplementary protection solution for the Leirosa sand dune system located at South of Figueira da Foz, on the Portuguese West coast. Such installation near the coastline is expected to contribute to enhance the surfing conditions in the area, protect the sand dune system in the surroundings of Leirosa beach, and increase its environmental value. Numerical calculations with the COULWAVE model were performed for four test cases, considering two reef geometries (differing in the reef angle) and two incident wave conditions (storm condition and a common wave condition). Comparisons between the results obtained, in terms of wave heights and breaking line positions allow us to assess the influence of the reef on the hydrodynamics near the beach and around the reef. Moreover, the reef performance was analysed in terms of surfability and coastal protection. The surfability parameters (breaker height, Iribarren number and peel angle) were calculated for each test case using the numerical wave heights, wave directions and wave breaking positions. Comparisons of parameters allow characterizing the most appropriate configuration of the reef to improve the surfing conditions in the study area. A methodology based on numerical free surface elevations and horizontal velocity components was developed to calculate wave directions, since this is not a direct output of the COULWAVE model. Concerning coastal protection, analyses of the mean currents around the reef were used together with observations of the velocity cells near the shoreline as an indication of the sediment transport.

As a new alternative countermeasure to protect the coastal zone and to increase the surfing possibilities in the Leirosa area of Portugal, multifunctional artificial reefs were investigated numerically in this paper. The primary surfing parameters used in the design (i.e., breaker type, peel angle, wave height at breaking, and currents around the artificial reef) were analyzed. The reef functionality was also analyzed for coastal protection. Two reef geometries with different reef angles of 45 and 66°were tested, considering two design wave conditions (storm and common) and two tide levels (medium and low). Simulations show that both reef geometries are adequate for surfing, although the reef angle of 66°is more suitable for standard surfers, and the 45°angle is more adequate for advanced/professional surfers. A morphodynamic study should be carried out to analyze the efficiency of the artificial surf reef for coastal protection.