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Transition to digital models of garments is the first step in dig-itization of the light industry. Adequate digital models can be obtained by using precise parameters of stress-strain properties of a fabric and other materials. The study has revealed regression dependences of the stiffness index of the polymer – fibre composite on the stiffness of the suit fabric and the combination of fusible interlining parameters. The obtained equa-tions can be used to design composite materials of the required stiffness, depending on the form of clothing being created

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When using lightweight fabrics of costume-dress assortment for manufacture of clothes, the most challenging problem is to correlate changes in properties of shell fabric and fusible interlining during its transformation from flat to volumetric state. Developed the reinforced interlining materials capable of forming in conjunction with the shell fabric composites, possessing optimum shaping characteristics. They are easily shaped, and after a final wet-heat treatment they obtain required rigidity and elasticity values, thus ensuring that volumetric shape of a garment will be preserved in the process of wearing it by a user. The technology realizes original methods of selecting precision values for elastic-deformation properties in the laminate of shell fabric and an interlining by forming in a duplicating cloth 3D self-organizing structures of a reinforcing polymer-fibrous composite. It was proved that there is a chemical interaction between acrylate copolymers and polyamide adhesive, discretely distributed on the surface of interlinings. This ensures the formation of a three-dimensional reinforcing structures of a unique bristle-like shape, encrusting the surface of the fibers and penetrating into their nanoporous system. The required values for elastic-deformation properties of polymer-fibrous composite materials for various kinds of textile carriers can be found by changing topology of applying polymeric modifiers and conditions of copolymerization. A wide range of variation in elastic-deformation properties makes it possible to adapt quickly the assortment of interlining materials to the individual customer requirements taking into consideration the purpose of the manufactured clothing and characteristics of the shell materials.

The aim of the study was to improve the range of adhesive interlining materials for clothes to add to the product a complex of improved consumer (shape stability, wear resistance) and special (protective, health-improving) properties. We have found that the modification of the adhesive coating of interlining materials with oligoacrylates provides a transition from the traditional discrete 2D glue interlayers between the bonded materials formation to the highly branched 3D structures of the interfacial layer of composites creation. Using dynamic light scattering method, IR spectroscopy, differential scanning calorimetry, gas adsorption, optical and scanning probe microscopy, methods of textile materials science, we have identified technological approaches that ensure the polymer coating penetration into the intrafiber nanopore spaces of the textile layers. We have identified ways to control the elastic-deformation properties of composites in the modifying the adhesive interlining material process in order to design its properties for the requirements of various garment models. We found a unique possibility of using graftable oligoacrylate dispersion to stabilize the nanodispersed state of functional fillers (silica, nanoferrites) and increase the uniformity of their distribution in the composite structure.

The behavior of colloidal silicon dioxide in a composition with a styrene / butyl acrylate oligomer, grafted onto a thermoplastic polyamide adhesive to obtain a branched binder structure with penetration of branches into the capillary-pore system of the reinforcing fiber component, was studied. The variants of disaggregation of SiO2 using ultrasonic treatment and mechanical activation with exposure by high shear stresses, ultrasound and cavitation are compared. Methods of dynamic light scattering, IR spectroscopy, thermal analysis, and textile materials science were used to evaluate the elastic-deformation properties of duplicated packets. The set of complementary results confirms that the combined mechanical activation of an aqueous dispersion of oligoacrylate and silica causes the destruction of silica nanospheres and the formation of a hybrid oligolymer-inorganic adduct. In contrast to the short-term effects of ultrasonic dispersion of SiO2, joint mechanical activation of the components solves the problems of preventing aggregation of nanoparticles and uniform distribution of the reinforcing filler in the composite. The effectiveness of using the method for regulating the properties of forming units and parts of sewing products is shown. When selecting oligoacrylate, specific for sewing production separation of the stages of preliminary bonding of materials using thermoplastic adhesive, the creation of a finished product form and its fixing during wet-heat treatment, is taken into account. The preparation of a hybrid adduct of mechanical activation provides an optimal ratio of particle size for rational distribution of fractions in interfacial, interfiber, and intrafiber spaces of the textile web. The shift of the peaks of phase transitions and chemical transformations in a system with nanodispersed SiO2, controlled on DSC thermograms, is consistent with the temperature regimes of successive stages of the technological process. The possibilities of a controlled change in the properties of forming composite materials and a decrease in the material consumption of sewing products by grafting a modified oligoacrylate with a variable content of silicon dioxide are demonstrated.

Ultrasonic dispersion of a silica hydrosol is compared with the effects of mechanical activation through the combined action of high shear stresses, ultrasound and cavitation. This action leads to breaking the siloxane bonds and increasing the content of silanol groups. The mechanical activation of binary silica system with acrylate dispersion promotes a chemisorption of oligoacrylate with the formation of Si – O – C and Si – C bonds. The effect of modification of oligoacrylate on the formation of a graft-copolymer and the stiffness of a composite material was evaluated.

This research aims at validation of the technological approaches to the provision of penetrating the polymer binder into the structure of the filament carrier in order to construct a developed interfacial layer in the form of molecular brushes. Brush “bristles”, enshrined by the outer end in the layer of the copolymer binder, can give elastic properties to the composite material obtained by duplicating the shell material with reinforced adhesive interlining materials. As a large part of the interlining materials range comprises a mixture of polyester fiber with cotton or viscose, the problem of accessibility of textile liner web for reinforcing polymer is originally considered in relation to the cellulosic component, which has a developed system of pore spaces. This work defines the technical possibility of regulating the elastic-deformation properties of the fused panels of garment by changing the degree of reinforcing polymer (RP) dispersion fineness, providing different terms for penetration into the structure of fiber material. To change the capacity of the RP to penetrate into the fiber structure a method of ultra-dispergation was used by the mechanical activation of hydrosols in a colloid mill. There is an experimental prove of the decisive role of the reinforcing polymer penetration into the pore spaces of the cellulose component of the interlining material for the formation the branched comb structure of interfacial layer, which provides a comprehensive improvement in the ability of materials to form the bulk shape of the garment and its preservation while distorting.