In order to further clarify the role of intercellular lipids in the water-retention properties of the stratum corneum, forearm skin of six healthy male volunteers was treated with 5% sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) for 1, 10, and 30 min. All treatment periods induced chapping and scaling of the stratum corneum without any inflammatory reaction, accompanied by a significant decrease in its water-retention function. Electron-microscopic analysis of SDS-treated stratum corneum revealed selective depletion of the lipids from the intercellular spaces, accompanied by marked disruption of multiple lamellae structures. Lipid analysis also showed a considerable and selective loss of intercellular lipids such as cholesterol, cholesterol ester, free fatty acid, and sphingolipids. To evaluate the recovery potential for intercellular lipids, lipids which were separated as sebaceous-rich lipids (SLs) and stratum corneum lipids (SCLs) were applied daily on SDS-treated forearm skin. Two daily applications of the SCLs which were emulsified at 10% concentration in W/O (water in oil) cream caused a significant increase in conductance, accompanied by a definite improvement in the level of scaling over no application or W/O emulsion base only, whereas SLs in the W/O emulsion base led to no significant recovery in either conductance value or scaling. When two daily topical applications of four chromatographically separated lipid fractions (cholesterol ester, free fatty acid, cholesterol, and sphingolipid) from the SCL were carried out at 1% concentration in the same system, the cholesterol ester and sphingolipid fractions were found to induce a significant increase in the conductance value over no application.(ABSTRACT TRUNCATED AT 250 WORDS)

The extended substrate binding sites of several chymotrypsin-like serine proteases, including rat mast cell proteases I and II (RMCP I and II, respectively) and human and dog skin chymases, have been investigated by using peptide 4-nitroanilide substrates. In general, these enzymes preferred a P1 Phe residue and hydrophobic amino acid residues in P2 and P3. A P2 Pro residue was also found to be quite acceptable. The S4 subsites of these enzymes are less restrictive than the other subsites investigated. The substrate specificity of these enzymes was also investigated by using substrates which contain model desmosine residues and peptides with amino acid sequences of the physiologically important substrates angiotensin I and angiotensinogen and alpha 1-antichymotrypsin, the major plasma inhibitor for chymotrypsin-like enzymes. These substrates were less reactive than the most reactive tripeptide reported here, Suc-Val-Pro-Phe-NA. The thiobenzyl ester Suc-Val-Pro-Phe-SBzl was found to be an extremely reactive substrate for the enzymes tested and was 6-171-fold more reactive than the 4-nitroanilide substrate. The four chymotrypsin-like enzymes were inhibited by chymostatin and N-substituted saccharin derivatives which had KI values in the micromolar range. In addition, several potent peptide chloromethyl ketone and substituted benzenesulfonyl fluoride irreversible inhibitors for these enzymes were discovered. The most potent sulfonyl fluoride inhibitor for RMCP I, RMCP II, and human skin chymase, 2-(Z-NHCH2CONH)C6H4SO2F, had kobsd/[I] values of 2500, 270, and 1800 M-1 s-1, respectively. The substrates and inhibitors reported here should be extremely useful in elucidating the physiological roles of these proteases.

The extended substrate binding site of cathepsin G from human leukocytes has been mapped by using a series of peptide 4-nitroanilide substrates. The enzyme has a significant preference for substrates with a P1 Phe over those with the other aromatic amino acids Tyr and Trp. The S2 subsite was mapped with the substrates Suc-Phe-AA-Phe-NA where AA was 13 of the 20 amino acid residues commonly found in proteins. The best residues were Pro and Met. The S3 subsite was mapped with the sequence Suc-AA-Pro-Phe-NA by using 14 different amino acid residues for AA. The two best residues were the isosteric Val and Thr. No significant improvement in reactivity was obtained by extending the substrate to include seven different P4 residues. The kinetic parameters for cathepsin G are significantly slower than those for many other serine proteases. Changes in the reaction conditions and addition of possible cofactors or ligands were in general found to have little effect on the enzymatic activity, while chemical modifications and proteolysis destroyed the activity of cathepsin G. Cathepsin G hydrolyzed peptides containing model desmosine residues and prefers the hydrophobic picolinoyllysine derivative over lysine by substantial margins at both the S4 and S2 subsites but will not tolerate it at S3. Substrates with sequences related to the cathepsin G cleavage site in angiotensin I and angiotensinogen, and the reactive site of alpha 1-antichymotrypsin, were hydrolyzed effectively by enzyme, but with unexceptional rates. Our results indicate that the natural substrate(s) and function(s) of cathepsin G still remain to be discovered.

In order to clarify the roles of lipids in the water-holding property of stratum corneum, the forearm skin of healthy male volunteers was treated with acetone/ether (1/1) or sodium dodecyl sulfate (5%) for 1-30 min.A prolonged treatment period of 5-30 min produced a chapped and scaly appearance of the stratum corneum without any inflammatory reactions.Under these conditions, there was a marked decrease in the water-holding capacity of the stratum corneum accompanied by a selective loss of stratum corneum lipids such as cholesterol, cholesterol esters, and sphingolipids. Two daily applications of the isolated stratum corneum lipids to experimentally induced dry skins caused a significant increase of conductance r accompanied by a marked improvement in the level of scaling.Meanwhile, the isolated sebaceous lipids exhibited no significant recovery in both the conductance value and the scaling.Out of chromatographically separated fractions of the stratum corneum lipids, topical applications of ceramide fraction induced the highest increase in the conductance value.Topical applications of synthesized pseudo-ceramides also showed a significant recovery of the water-retaining properties accompanied by an improvement in the scaling only when the polar group has an amide bond in the major linkage.Analysis of the alkyl chain structures has revealed that a structural requirement for the recovery of the water retaining capacity is the presence of saturated-straight alkyl chains, not unsaturated or branched alkyl chains. These structural characteristics required for water-retaining function also paralleled their capacity to form multiconcentric lamellae vesicles in vitro which is also capable of acquiring bound water as shown by """"DSe-t'Fiermograms. The present study suggests that ceramides with relatively shorter alkyl chain length serve as a water modulator in the multi-lipid bilayers through the stratum corneum.

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