Importance of intercellular lipids in water-retention properties of the stratum corneum: induction and recovery study of surfactant dry skin

Abstract

In order to further clarify the role of intercellular lipids in the water-retention properties of the stratum corneum, forearm skin of six healthy male volunteers was treated with 5% sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) for 1, 10, and 30 min. All treatment periods induced chapping and scaling of the stratum corneum without any inflammatory reaction, accompanied by a significant decrease in its water-retention function. Electron-microscopic analysis of SDS-treated stratum corneum revealed selective depletion of the lipids from the intercellular spaces, accompanied by marked disruption of multiple lamellae structures. Lipid analysis also showed a considerable and selective loss of intercellular lipids such as cholesterol, cholesterol ester, free fatty acid, and sphingolipids. To evaluate the recovery potential for intercellular lipids, lipids which were separated as sebaceous-rich lipids (SLs) and stratum corneum lipids (SCLs) were applied daily on SDS-treated forearm skin. Two daily applications of the SCLs which were emulsified at 10% concentration in W/O (water in oil) cream caused a significant increase in conductance, accompanied by a definite improvement in the level of scaling over no application or W/O emulsion base only, whereas SLs in the W/O emulsion base led to no significant recovery in either conductance value or scaling. When two daily topical applications of four chromatographically separated lipid fractions (cholesterol ester, free fatty acid, cholesterol, and sphingolipid) from the SCL were carried out at 1% concentration in the same system, the cholesterol ester and sphingolipid fractions were found to induce a significant increase in the conductance value over no application.(ABSTRACT TRUNCATED AT 250 WORDS)

Mannosylerythritol Lipids: Production and Applications

“…5a , an essential component of the stratum corneum 42,43 , because both of the lipids consist of two fatty acids and sugar moieties, and are capable of forming various lyotropic liquid crystals, including the lamellar phase 5 . As previously reported, the moisturizing activity was evaluated using a three-dimensional cultured human skin model, TESTSKIN TM Toyobo, Japan based on the cell viability 44,45 . The sodium dodecyl sulfate SDS -damaged human skin cells were prepared, and then the effects of different lipids on viability of the SDS-damaged cells.…”

Characterization of overall ceramide species in human stratum corneum

“…Compared with other human cells/tissues, the stratum corneum (SC) of human skin has extremely complex CERs consisting of fatty acid moieties (nonhydroxy, a-hydroxy, or ester-linked v-hydroxy) and sphingoid moieties (sphingosine, dihydrosphingosine, phytosphingosine, or 6-hydroxy-sphingosine) (5). CERs in human SC contribute to the formation of lamellae structures at intercellular spaces among the horny cells in the SC together with cholesterol and free fatty acids and play important physicochemical roles in determining cutaneous barrier and water-holding functions (6)(7)(8)(9). On the other hand, some scientists are interested in the dynamics of CER-related lipids in differentiated keratinocytes, where apoptosis occurs in the skin (10).…”

A Yeast Glycolipid Biosurfactant, Mannosylerythritol Lipid, Shows Potential Moisturizing Activity toward Cultured Human Skin Cells: The Recovery Effect of MEL-A on the SDS-damaged Human Skin Cells

“…Oleo Sci. 58, (12) tant role in the water permeability properties of the skin, providing an epidermal water barrier which strengthens the skin structure and reduces water loss [1][2][3] . Regarding the mechanism for the recovery effect, we also speculate 1) the structure of MEL-A resembling ceramides would allow the skin cells to be penetrated easily into the intercellular spaces, and 2) the penetrated MEL-A would effectively provide the moisture retention in the cells due to the excellent formation of liquid crystals 7) .…”