Background: Small molecular natural products, such as betaine, have unique moisturizing advantages. Capparis spinosa L. fruit is rich in quaternary ammonium alkaloids such as betaine and stachydrine. However, few studies investigated its efficacy and mechanism on human skin.Objective: Polysaccharides-free C. spinosa fruit extract (CS) was obtained to study its moisturizing effect and mechanisms focusing on filaggrin (FLG) synthesis and degradation. Methods:The clinical moisturizing test was carried out on human arms, calves, and faces after CS treatment for 0.5-6 h. The change in the level of FLG, caspase 14, loricrin, and transglutaminase 5 (TGM 5) was measured by immunofluorescence after CS treatment for 4 and 24 h in a reconstructed epidermis model. Also, the content of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) in the stratum corneum was tested by highperformance liquid chromatography (HPLC) both in the epidermis model and human calves.Results: Compared with glycerin (positive control), 5% CS showed a strong skin hydration effect on arms and calves when applied for 0.5-6 h. Also, the face hydration increased at 0.5 and 4 h. In addition, 3% CS applied to the recombinant epidermis model under low humidity promoted the immunodetected levels of caspase 14 and PCA content but reduced the levels of FLG at 4 h, however, the levels of FLG, loricrin, and TGM 5 were promoted at 24 h. Meanwhile, CS treatment for 4 h in human calves increased the PCA content in the stratum corneum by 29.9%.Conclusions: Topical application of CS on human skin showed an instant and longlasting increase in skin hydration by regulating the FLG network. It promoted FLG degradation to form PCA at 4 h both in vivo and in vitro, increasing FLG synthesis after 24 h, potentially reforming the FLG monomer reservoir to alleviate the skin's dry condition.
Background: Botanical ingredients are widely used in hair-and skin-care products. However, few studies have investigated the effectiveness of botanical products on counteracting sebum synthesis and secretion.Objective: To investigate the composition of Lotus corniculatus seed extract (LC) and its potential inhibition of lipogenesis in SZ95 sebocytes and oily human skin. Methods:The active components of LC solutions were identified by highperformance liquid chromatography (HPLC) and nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR). The in vitro effects of LC were evaluated using SZ95 cells treated with linoleic acid (LA) and dihydrotestosterone (DHT) and incubated with LCs for 24 h and 72 h. Lipogenesis was assessed by Oil Red O and Nile Red staining of the cells. In vivo effects were assessed on 30 subjects with oily skin who were enrolled in a randomized, blank-controlled trial and were treated with LC solution for 6 h and 4 weeks. The skin sebum contents and area on the forehead and cheeks were evaluated using a Sebumeter SM815 and Sebfix sebutape with Visioscan VC98. In addition, VISIA was used to collect half-face photos for analysis. Results:A novel active molecule, 5′-o-rhamnosyl uridine, was identified in LC.LC exhibited a dose-dependent inhibitory effect on LA and DHT-induced lipid synthesis. When 5% LC was applied for 3 h, the skin sebum contents and area were significantly reduced compared with the vehicle control, with an obvious reduction after 6 h. Continued use of the serum containing 5% LC for 4 weeks resulted in a significant reduction in the skin sebum contents and area. No adverse reactions were reported during the study.Conclusions: Topical application of LC resulted in an immediate and longlasting reduction of the sebum contents and area of oily human skin by reducing sebaceous lipogenesis through the LA and DHT pathways. This indicates the potential of LC as a new biological treatment for oily skin.
Background: Sensitive skin (SS) is a clinical syndrome defined by the occurrence of unpleasant sensations (such as stinging, burning, pain, pruritus, and tingling) in response to stimuli that normally should not provoke them. According to growing evidence, transient receptor potential vanilloid subtype 1 (TRPV1) has elevated expression in individuals with SS and is linked with the severity of SS symptoms. However, its pathogenesis is still unknown.
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