No abstract

Broken wave characteristics in front of a vertical seawall were modeled and studied using a shock-capturing Boussinesq wave model FUNWAVE-TVD. Validation with the experimental data confirmed the capability of FUNWAVE-TVD in predicting the wave characteristics via the shock-capturing method. Compared to the results obtained from the Boussinesq model coupled with an empirical breaking model, the advantage of the present shock-capturing model for the broken waves near a vertical seawall was clearly revealed. A preliminary investigation of the effects of the key parameters, such as the incident wave height, water level at the seawall, and seabed slope, on the wave kinematics (i.e., the root mean square of the surface fluctuations and depth-averaged horizontal velocity) near the seawall was then conducted through a series of numerical experiments. The numerical results indicate the incident wave height and the water depth at the seawall are the important parameters in determining the magnitude of the wave kinematics, while the effect of the seabed slope seems to be insignificant. The role of the breaking point locations is also highlighted in this study, in which case further breaking can reduce the wave kinematics significantly for the coastal structures predominately subjected to broken waves.

This study utilized a shock-capturing Boussinesq model FUNWAVE-TVD to investigate the maximum momentum flux in the solitary wave run-up zone over back-reef slopes. Validation results of the present model were compared to the previous version of FUNWAVE using the eddy viscosity breaking model to demonstrate the advantages of the shock-capturing method in predicting the breaking solitary wave transformation and run-up over fringing reefs. A series of numerical experiments was designed comprehensively and performed then to obtain a new formulation for the envelope of the spatial distribution of the maximum momentum flux within the solitary wave run-up zone over back-reef beaches, which is different from the one used over uniformly-sloping beaches. Finally, the effects of the variation of reef parameters (i.e., the fore-reef slope angle, reef flat width, and water depth over the reef flat) on the maximum momentum flux at the initial shoreline were investigated to better understand the role of fringing reefs in the mitigation of tsunami hazard.

No abstract

No abstract