Synopsis Protein denaturation was investigated to establish an in vitro evaluation method of surfactants in connection with their in vivo irritation potency to human skin. Eventually a new method with simplicity and high reproducibility was established by using quantitative analysis with gel-permeation chromatography (GPC). The protein denaturing potency of the commercially available surfactants was measured by using the developed method. Synergistic reduction in protein denaturation was observed in the mixed systems of anionic and amphoteric surfactants. The synergistic reduction was explained in terms of the physico-chemical properties of the mixed surfactants. A possible mechanism is the remarkable lowering of the total monomer concentration by the formation of hydrophobic complexes between the anionic and amphoteric surfactants.
The dynamic viscoelastic properties of semisolid emulsions (commercial cosmetic creams) at 25°C were measured by means of a Weissenberg rheogoniometer at frequencies ranging from 1.582×10−3 to 1.582 Hz. In general, these emulsions manifested remarkable nonlinear viscoelasticity even at very small strains; when sinusoidal strains were applied to the emulsions, the resultant stresses were not sinusoidal, in marked contrast to the case in ordinary linear viscoelastic materials. Such nonsinusoidal stresses were analyzed by the method proposed by Onogi et al. to give nonlinear viscoelastic functions. The frequency dependences of these nonlinear functions for the emulsions were quite different from those of the viscoelastic functions for polymer solutions or melts, especially in the low frequency range; the viscoelastic functions for the semisolid emulsions showed second plateaus lower than the so-called rubbery plateau. Some considerations concerning the origin of the nonsinusoidal stresses were given, and it was concluded that the origin was the dynamic yield stress which was originated from the structure in the semisolid emulsions.
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