We herein propose a polymeric nanovehicle system that has the ability to remarkably improve cellular uptake and transdermal delivery. Cell-penetrating peptide-patchy deformable polymeric nanovehicles were fabricated by tailored coassembly of amphiphilic poly(ethylene oxide)- block-poly(ε-caprolactone) (PEO- b-PCL), mannosylerythritol lipid (MEL), and YGRKKRRQRRR-cysteamine (TAT)-linked MEL. Using X-ray diffraction, differential scanning calorimetry, and nuclear magnetic resonance analyses, we revealed that the incorporation of MEL having an asymmetric alkyl chain configuration was responsible for the deformable phase property of the vehicles. We also discovered that the nanovehicles were mutually attracted, exhibiting a gel-like fluid characteristic due to the dipole-dipole interaction between the hydroxyl group of MEL and the methoxy group of PEO- b-PCL. Coassembly of TAT-linked MEL with the deformable nanovehicles significantly enhanced cellular uptake due to macropinocytosis and caveolae-/lipid raft-mediated endocytosis. Furthermore, the in vivo skin penetration test revealed that our TAT-patchy deformable nanovehicles remarkably improved transdermal delivery efficiency.

Ceramides in the human stratum corneum (SC) are a mixture of diverse N-acylated fatty acids (FAs) with different chain lengths. C24 is the major class of FAs of ceramides. However, there are also other classes of ceramides with diverse chain lengths of FAs, and these lengths generally range from C16 to C26. This study aimed to prepare several types of phytoceramide containing diverse chain lengths of N-acylated FAs and compare them with C18-ceramide N-stearoyl phytosphingosine (NP) in terms of their effects on the physiological properties of the SC. We chose natural oils, such as horse fat oil, shea butter, sunflower oil, and a mixture of macadamia nut, shea butter, moringa, and meadowfoam seed oil, as sources of FAs and phytosphingosine as a sphingoid backbone to synthesize diverse phytoceramides. Each phytoceramide exhibited a distinctive formation of the lamellar structure, and their FA profiles were similar to those of their respective natural oil. The skin barrier properties, as analyzed in human skin, clearly demonstrated that all the phytoceramides improved the recovery rate of the damaged SC and enhanced hydration better than C18-ceramide NP did. In conclusion, natural oil-derived phytoceramides could represent a novel class of ceramides for cosmetic applications in the development of an ideal skin barrier moisturizer.

Advanced glycation end products (AGEs) have recently been increasingly discussed as one factor of skin aging. In this study, we investigated the effects of Cirsium japonicum flower (CFE) extract on glycation in relation to skin aging and skin elasticity. Moreover, we learned the main active constituent of CFE that has effects against glycation. To demonstrate the effects of CFE on glycation, we carried out an in vitro glycation study, 3-dimensional culture, and clinical study. As a result, CFE inhibited formation of AGEs in both bovine serum albumin (BSA)/glucose glycation system and aldehyde-derived glycation system. Moreover, CFE reduced Nε-(carboxymethyl), lysine (CML), and carbonylated proteins that increased by glycation. Furthermore, CFE broke crosslinks of collagen–AGEs and inhibited the increase of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) gene expression by AGEs. In the 3D culture condition, CFE restored the reduction of collagen gel contraction by glycation. Moreover, apigenin was detected as the main active constituent in CFE that has anti-glycation effects. In the clinical study, we confirmed that CFE has effects on skin wrinkles and skin elasticity. Our findings suggest that CFE can be used as a cosmetic or cosmeceutical ingredient for improving skin elasticity and wrinkles. Regulation of AGEs can be an interesting target for anti-aging.

Atopic dermatitis (AD) results from gene and environment interactions that lead to a range of immunological abnormalities and breakdown of the skin barrier. Protease-activated receptor 2 (PAR2) belongs to a family of G-protein coupled receptors and is expressed in suprabasal layers of the epidermis. PAR2 is activated by both trypsin and a specific agonist peptide, SLIGKV-NH2 and is involved in both epidermal permeability barrier homeostasis and epithelial inflammation. In this study, we investigated the effect of lobaric acid on inflammation, keratinocyte differentiation, and recovery of the skin barrier in hairless mice. Lobaric acid blocked trypsin-induced and SLIGKV-NH2-induced PAR2 activation resulting in decreased mobilization of intracellular Ca2+ in HaCaT keratinocytes. Lobaric acid reduced expression of interleukin-8 induced by SLIGKV-NH2 and thymus and activation regulated chemokine (TARC) induced by tumor necrosis factor-a (TNF-α) and IFN-γ in HaCaT keratinocytes. Lobaric acid also blocked SLIGKV-NH2-induced activation of ERK, which is a downstream signal of PAR2 in normal human keratinocytes (NHEKs). Treatment with SLIGKV-NH2 downregulated expression of involucrin, a differentiation marker protein in HaCaT keratinocytes, and upregulated expression of involucrin, transglutamase1 and filaggrin in NHEKs. However, lobaric acid antagonized the effect of SLIGKV-NH2 in HaCaT keratinocytes and NHEKs. Topical application of lobaric acid accelerated barrier recovery kinetics in a SKH-1 hairless mouse model. These results suggested that lobaric acid is a PAR2 antagonist and could be a possible therapeutic agent for atopic dermatitis.

<b><i>Background/Objectives:</i></b> Ultraviolet (UV) radiation damages the stratum corneum (SC) and disrupts the skin barrier. The damaged skin changes in the molecular composition of the SC, including its water content. However, it is difficult to examine the in vivo SC changes with existing methods, so those have not been well characterized. Therefore, we investigated in vivo changes of UV-induced SC damage using confocal Raman spectroscopy. <b><i>Method:</i></b> We irradiated the volar forearm of 10 subjects with 0.5, 1, and 1.5 minimal erythemal doses of UV radiation. Then, we examined erythema, the transepidermal water loss (TEWL), the water content, the natural moisturizing factor (NMF), and the lipids of the skin. <b><i>Results:</i></b> After UV irradiation, erythema and TEWL of the skin were both increased. The bound water content of the SC was also increased following UV irradiation. The NMF of the SC revealed different tendencies. All free amino acids (FAAs) of the NMF were increased after UV irradiation, except proline. <i>trans</i>-urocanic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, lactate, and urea, which are NMF components produced by the subsequent catabolism of FAAs and sweat, were decreased after UV irradiation. The amount of ceramide in the SC was also decreased after UV exposure, while cholesterol was increased. <b><i>Conclusions:</i></b> The bound water content of the SC was increased by UV exposure along with increasing TEWL, several NMF components, and cholesterol. These in vivo results for UV-damaged SC obtained via Raman spectroscopy could be applied to research with regard to protecting the SC from UV radiation and treating UV-damaged SC.