We previously reported that wrinkle formation in the skin following long-term ultraviolet B irradiation is accompanied by decreases in skin elasticity and the curling of elastic fibers in the dermis. We further showed that wrinkles could be repaired by treatment with retinoic acid and that this was concomitant with the recovery of skin elasticity ascribed to the repair of damaged elastic fibers. Those studies suggested that decreasing the tortuosity of dermal elastic fibers is an important factor involved in inhibiting or repairing wrinkle formation. Therefore, it is of particular interest to determine whether the inhibition of elastase activity in vivo would prevent the damage of dermal elastic fibers and might abolish wrinkle formation associated with the loss of skin elasticity. Because the major elastase in the skin under noninflammatory conditions is skin fibroblast elastase, we used a specific inhibitor of that enzyme to assess its biologic role in wrinkle formation. The hind limb skins of Sprague-Dawley rats were irradiated with ultraviolet B at a suberythemal dose three times a week for 6 wk. During that period, 0.1-10.0 mM N-phenetylphosphonyl-leucyl-tryptophane, an inhibitor of skin fibroblast elastase, was applied topically five times a week. N-phenetylphosphonyl-leucyl-tryptophane application at concentrations of 0.1-1.0 mM abolished wrinkle formation in a concentration-dependent manner, with a peak for inhibition at 1.0 mM. This inhibition was accompanied by a continued low tortuosity of dermal elastic fibers and a maintenance of skin elasticity. Measurement of elastase activity after 6 wk of ultraviolet B irradiation demonstrated that whereas phosphoramidon-sensitive elastase activity was significantly enhanced in the ultraviolet B-exposed skin, there was no significant increase in that activity in the ultraviolet B-exposed, N-phenetylphosphonyl-leucyl-tryptophane-treated skin. These findings suggest that skin fibroblast elastase plays an essential part in the degeneration and/or tortuosity of elastic fibers induced by cumulative ultraviolet B irradiation.

We have previously demonstrated that decreases in skin elasticity, accompanied by increases in the tortuosity of elastic fibers, are important early events in wrinkle formation. In order to study the role of elastases in the degeneration of elastic fibers during wrinkle formation we examined the effects of an inhibitor of skin fibroblast elastase, N-phenethylphosphonyl-L-leucyl-L-tryptophane (NPLT), on wrinkle formation in hairless mice skin following UV irradiation. Dorsal skins of hairless mice were exposed daily to UV light for 18 weeks at doses of 65-95 mJ/cm2 and treated topically with 100 microL of 1 mM NPLT immediately after each UV irradiation. Wrinkles on dorsal skins were evaluated from week 6 through week 18. The daily exposure of mouse skin to UV light with less than 1 minimal erythemal dose significantly enhanced the activity of elastase in the exposed skin by week 4, and the elevated levels of elastase activity were significantly reduced by the in vitro incubation with NPLT in a dose-dependent manner to a level similar to that in unexposed mice skin, indicating that NPLT can efficiently inhibit the UV-inducible elastase activity. Topical application of NPLT significantly suppressed wrinkle formation when compared with vehicle controls by week 15 of treatment (P < 0.05). Histochemistry of elastic fibers with Orcein staining demonstrated that there were no obvious decreases of the fine elastic fibers in UV-exposed NPLT-treated skin in contrast to their marked decreases in the UV-exposed vehicle-treated skin. These findings suggest that skin fibroblast elastase plays a decisive role in wrinkle formation through the degeneration of elastic fiber.

These results suggest that ovariectomy alone is sufficient to accelerate skin ageing and to increase UV sensitivity, which results in the further deterioration of the skin and photoageing, and may account for the accelerated skin ageing seen in postmenopausal women.

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The assessment of ocular irritation potential is an important part of safety testing for cosmetic and consumer products. The purpose of this investigation was to examine ocular irritancy levels elicited in humans by various categories of a specific class of cosmetic and consumer products that have a potential to enter the eye inadvertently during use. Test materials assessed belonged to one of seven categories, which included liquid make-up, shampoo, baby wash, mascara, eye make-up remover, powder eye shadow, and facial cleanser. These test materials were evaluated by human ocular instillation, followed by examinations, for which subjective perceptions of irritation were recorded, and component areas of ocular tissues were individually examined for inflammation and for the area and density of fluorescein staining patterns at 30 s and at 5, 15, 60, and 120 min post-instillation. Subjective and objective ocular irritation scores of 410 eyes were analyzed by product classification. Average score levels were determined for subjective responses, inflammation, and fluorescein staining patterns. This investigation determined that irritation levels of the evaluated test materials varied markedly with respect to product category, type of ocular irritation, and ocular tissue, demonstrating that these factors are important considerations for the prediction of the ocular irritancy of a test material.