Assessing sustainability is extremely necessary and appears as an industrial need and requirement in order to facilitate decision making and to evaluate the impacts of existing strategies, products and technologies. Thus, the main goal of this research was to develop a sustainability calculator based on the opinion of experts that work in the different branches of the cosmetic industry, in order to cover the entire life cycle of a cosmetic product. A detailed survey in which all the steps of a cosmetic product life cycle were addressed, was designed and applied to cosmetic professionals. The data obtained with the survey was statistically analysed for the positive and negative impacts of each parameter on sustainability. The analysed data allowed the creation of a Microsoft Excel tool that mirrors the experts’ opinion. A proof of concept was also designed in order to prove the usefulness of the tool. The results show that there are no raw materials and/or packaging materials and practices, that can be considered 100% sustainable. However, with the appropriate strategies, it is possible to drastically decrease the impacts of any type of cosmetic product on sustainability. This is a promising tool that includes the three dimensions of sustainability in a simple, fast, objective and interactive way for the user. Its application will facilitate the work of the formulators and reduce the time of analysis and decision.
The development of printable hydrogel inks for extrusion-based 3D printing is opening new possibilities to the production of new and/or improved pharmaceutical forms, specifically for topical application. Alginate and starch are natural polysaccharides that have been extensively exploited due to their biocompatibility, biodegradability, viscosity properties, low toxicity, and relatively low cost. This research work aimed to study the physicochemical and release kinetic effects of starch incorporation in alginate-based 3D hydrogel patches for topical delivery using a quality by design approach. The incorporation of a pregelatinized starch is also proposed as a way to improve the properties of the drug delivery system while maintaining the desired quality characteristics. Critical material attributes and process parameters were identified, and the sensitivity and adequacy of each parameter were statistically analyzed. The impact of alginate, starch, and CaCl2·2H2O amounts on relevant quality attributes was estimated crosswise. The amount of starch revealed a synergetic impact on porosity (p = 0.0021). An evident increase in the size and quantity of open pores were detected in the as printed patches as well as after crosslinking (15.6 ± 5.2 µm). In vitro drug release studies from the optimized alginate-starch 3D hydrogel patch, using the probe Rhodamine B, showed an initial high burst release, followed by a controlled release mechanism. The results obtained also showed that the viscoelastic properties, printing accuracy, gelation time, microstructure, and release rates can be modulated by varying the amount of starch added to the system. Furthermore, these results can be considered an excellent baseline for future drug release modulation strategies.
With the increasing debate on sustainability, there is a strong market trend to formulate more sustainable products for topical application. Several studies emphasize the potential applications of natural, organic, or green chemistry-derived ingredients, but comparative studies between conventional ingredients and sustainable alternatives are lacking. This type of study is considered an excellent baseline and time-saving strategy for future studies. In addition, one of the main challenges of replacing ingredients by sustainable alternatives in topical vehicles is to maintain high-quality products. Thus, the main goal of this research study was to create a well-defined strategy supported by specific experimental data for the development of sustainable topical vehicles with high-quality standards. The study was designed to evaluate the effects of replacing conventional ingredients (e.g., hydrocarbons, silicones, and preservatives) by sustainable ones on the physical, chemical, and microbiological features of topical emulsions. Additionally, in vivo assessment studies were performed to evaluate the safety, biological efficacy, and sensorial aspects of the developed formulations. The results obtained showed that the replacement of ingredients by sustainable alternatives has an effective impact on the physicochemical and structural properties of the emulsions, mainly on their rheological behavior. However, using appropriate strategies for ingredient selection and rheological adjustment, it is possible to overcome some barriers created by the use of natural raw materials, thus developing appealing and high-quality sustainable topical vehicles.
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