The present study was carried out to provide the allantoin and glycolic acid contents in the Helix aspersa Muller mucus of common Campania land (Italy) by using chromatographic method. The study continued with the formulation of a snail mucus cosmetic cream, whose ability to hydrate the skin was evaluated comparing the skin hydration and trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) effects of a stable cosmetic preparation. The skin TEWL and skin hydration effects were measured by TEWAMETER and corneometer probe, respectively, at the beginning, after 1 hour, and 24 hours.
Psychological stress activates catecholamine production, determines oxidation processes, and alters the lipid barrier functions in the skin. Scientific evidence associated with the detoxifying effect of fruits and vegetables, the growing awareness of the long-term issues related to the use of chemical-filled cosmetics, the aging of the population, and the increase in living standards are the factors responsible for the growth of food-derived ingredients in the cosmetics market. A Ficus carica cell suspension culture extract (FcHEx) was tested in vitro (on keratinocytes cells) and in vivo to evaluate its ability to manage the stress-hormone-induced damage in skin. The FcHEx reduced the epinephrine (−43% and −24% at the concentrations of 0.002% and 0.006%, respectively), interleukin 6 (−38% and −36% at the concentrations of 0.002% and 0.006%, respectively), lipid peroxide (−25%), and protein carbonylation (−50%) productions; FcHEx also induced ceramide synthesis (+150%) and ameliorated the lipid barrier performance. The in vivo experiments confirmed the in vitro test results. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL; −12.2%), sebum flow (−46.6% after two weeks and −73.8% after four weeks; on the forehead −56.4% after two weeks and −80.1% after four weeks), and skin lightness (+1.9% after two weeks and +2.7% after four weeks) defined the extract’s effects on the skin barrier. The extract of the Ficus carica cell suspension cultures reduced the transepidermal water loss, the sebum production, the desquamation, and facial skin turning to a pale color from acute stress, suggesting its role as an ingredient to fight the signs of psychological stress in the skin.
Facial pore enlargement is considered a significant esthetic and health concern in skincare cosmetics. The pores fulfill the critical function of keeping the skin surface hydrated and protected against microbial infections. The hyperseborrhea, the stress factors, and the hormonal triggers can cause pore size enlargement, causing higher susceptibility of the skin to microbe aggressions and inflammatory reactions. Thus, reducing excessive sebum production and keeping functional pores are two of the most requested activities in skincare cosmetics. A Cirsium eriophorum cell culture extract was investigated for its role in sebum regulation, stratum corneum desquamation, and anti‐inflammation. The extract was able to regulate essential markers associated with sebum secretion and pore enlargements, such as the enzyme 5α‐reductase, which plays a central role in sebum production, and the trypsin‐like serine protease Kallikrein 5, which promotes skin exfoliation and antimicrobial response. Moreover, the extract showed a sebum‐normalizing and pore refining activity in individuals having seborrheic or acne‐prone skins, suggesting a role of the C. eriophorum extract in rebalancing altered skin conditions responsible for pore enlargement.
Vinegar is produced from the fermentation of agricultural materials and diluted acetic acid (diluted with water to 4–30% by volume) via sequential ethanol and acetic acid fermentation. The concentration of acetic acid must be measured during vinegar production. A Community method for analyzing acetic acid in vinegar is a non-specific method based on the assumption that the total acid concentration of the vinegar is attributable to the acetic acid. It consists of titration with a strong base in the presence of an indicator. This test is laborious and has a time-consuming character. In this work, a highly specific automated enzymatic method was validated, for the first time, to quantify the acetic acid in the wine vinegar, in terms of linearity, precision, repeatability, and uncertainty measurement. The results were compared to the Community method of analysis. Regression coefficient ≅ 1 and the normal distribution of residuals in the ANOVA test confirmed the method’s linearity. LLOD (0.946 ppm) and LLOQ (2.00 ppm) defined the method’s sensitivity. The results of the tested and the Community methods, linearly distributed in the Shapiro–Wilk test, confirmed the method’s repeatability. The few anomalous data in the Huber test were due to random errors. The high selectivity of the enzymatic method, which exclusively measures acetic acid concentration, determined the significant differences between the two tests, examined in the accuracy determination. The enzymatic method can be considered applicable since its precision and uncertainty were lower than the Community method values (relative percentage deviations = 10%). The enzymatic method compared to the Community method reduces the analysis time and the risk of errors due to operators (avoid pipetting errors and wrong calculations), minimizes solvent and the sample consumption and guarantees assay quality through method standardization.
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