Dosage of Bioactive Molecules in the Nutricosmeceutical <i>Helix aspersa</i> Muller Mucus and Formulation of New Cosmetic Cream with Moisturizing Effect

Laneri, Sonia; Lorenzo, Ritamaria Di; Sacchi, Antonia; Dini, Irene

doi:10.1177/1934578x19868606

Cited by 27 publications

(29 citation statements)

References 16 publications

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“…[ 8 ], whose profile and level depending on the pedoclimatic condition and agriculture practice [ 9 , 10 ]. Bioactive extracts are also obtained by algae, mushrooms, by-products of plant origins [ 11 , 12 , 13 , 14 ], and plant cell culture technology [ 15 , 16 ]. The latter is a natural and suitable technology used to make hair care, makeup, skincare, and supplement ingredients.…”

Section: Plant Cell Culture Technologymentioning

confidence: 99%

The New Challenge of Green Cosmetics: Natural Food Ingredients for Cosmetic Formulations

Dini

Laneri

2021

Molecules

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Nowadays, much attention is paid to issues such as ecology and sustainability. Many consumers choose "green cosmetics", which are environmentally friendly creams, makeup, and beauty products, hoping that they are not harmful to health and reduce pollution. Moreover, the repeated mini-lock downs during the COVID-19 pandemic have fueled the awareness that body beauty is linked to well-being, both external and internal. As a result, consumer preferences for makeup have declined, while those for skincare products have increased. Nutricosmetics, which combines the benefits derived from food supplementation with the advantages of cosmetic treatments to improve the beauty of our body, respond to the new market demands. Food chemistry and cosmetic chemistry come together to promote both inside and outside well-being. A nutricosmetic optimizes the intake of nutritional microelements to meet the needs of the skin and skin appendages, improving their conditions and delaying aging, thus helping to protect the skin from the aging action of environmental factors. Numerous studies in the literature show a significant correlation between the adequate intake of these supplements, improved skin quality (both aesthetic and histological), and the acceleration of wound-healing. This review revised the main foods and bioactive molecules used in nutricosmetic formulations, their cosmetic effects, and the analytical techniques that allow the dosage of the active ingredients in the food.

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Section: Plant Cell Culture Technologymentioning

confidence: 99%

The New Challenge of Green Cosmetics: Natural Food Ingredients for Cosmetic Formulations

Dini

Laneri

2021

Molecules

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“…The integration of natural ingredients from food into dietary supplements and cosmetic products is a reality that has already been commercialized. Fruits contain anti-aging, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory molecules, and consequently, have a high potential in cosmetics [ 1 , 2 , 3 ]. The skin is the most exposed organ of our body such that its health is threatened by a large variety of environmental factors (temperature shifts, sun radiation, tobacco smoke, ozone, chemical pollutants), which is known as the “exposome.” The concept of the exposome includes the totality of factors to which an individual gets exposed from conception to death; this term entered our vocabulary quite recently [ 4 ].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

An Extract from Ficus carica Cell Cultures Works as an Anti-Stress Ingredient for the Skin

Dini

Falanga²,

Lorenzo

et al. 2021

Antioxidants

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Psychological stress activates catecholamine production, determines oxidation processes, and alters the lipid barrier functions in the skin. Scientific evidence associated with the detoxifying effect of fruits and vegetables, the growing awareness of the long-term issues related to the use of chemical-filled cosmetics, the aging of the population, and the increase in living standards are the factors responsible for the growth of food-derived ingredients in the cosmetics market. A Ficus carica cell suspension culture extract (FcHEx) was tested in vitro (on keratinocytes cells) and in vivo to evaluate its ability to manage the stress-hormone-induced damage in skin. The FcHEx reduced the epinephrine (−43% and −24% at the concentrations of 0.002% and 0.006%, respectively), interleukin 6 (−38% and −36% at the concentrations of 0.002% and 0.006%, respectively), lipid peroxide (−25%), and protein carbonylation (−50%) productions; FcHEx also induced ceramide synthesis (+150%) and ameliorated the lipid barrier performance. The in vivo experiments confirmed the in vitro test results. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL; −12.2%), sebum flow (−46.6% after two weeks and −73.8% after four weeks; on the forehead −56.4% after two weeks and −80.1% after four weeks), and skin lightness (+1.9% after two weeks and +2.7% after four weeks) defined the extract’s effects on the skin barrier. The extract of the Ficus carica cell suspension cultures reduced the transepidermal water loss, the sebum production, the desquamation, and facial skin turning to a pale color from acute stress, suggesting its role as an ingredient to fight the signs of psychological stress in the skin.

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“…As a result of cellular metabolism, allantoin is found in a variety of organisms, from bacteria and plants, to invertebrates and vertebrates. The main therapeutic effects of allantoin (Figure 1) are stimulation of cell growth, regeneration of tissues and rebuilding of the granulation tissue [2][3][4][5][6][7]. Nutricosmetics are considered natural ingredients and products that act as nutritional supplements for the care of the beauty of hair, nails and skin, new innovative products being launched worldwide every year [4].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Allantoin from Valuable Romanian Animal and Plant Sources with Promising Anti-Inflammatory Activity as a Nutricosmetic Ingredient

et al. 2021

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Helix aspersa (HA), Helix pomatia (HP) and Symphytum officinale are common organisms in Romania’s biosphere, widely known for their allantoin content and their therapeutic properties. Herein, the allantoin was separated and quantified from the aqueous extracts of Romanian comfrey root and the secretions of HA and HP snails. This study also focused on determining the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of these Romanian allantoin-rich samples. The plant extracts were obtained through two methods: ultrasonic extraction and enzymatic ultrasonic extraction. A microplate method was used for the quantitative determination of allantoin content. The antioxidant activity was measured by using the DPPH radical scavenging method. The antioxidant capacity of the samples was studied in order to observe the type of interactions generated by the chemical complex present in their composition. High concentrations of allantoin were obtained by enzymatic ultrasonic extraction method (EUE—102 ± 0.74 μg/mL), and also in the water-soluble fraction of the snail secretion (FS1—22.051 μg/mL). The antioxidant screening suggests that Symphytum officinale and snail mucus extracts could be used as promising natural substitutes for synthetic antioxidants in products used for therapeutic purposes. The evaluation of anti-inflammatory activity was also investigated, allantoin-rich samples showing a promising action (FS1—81.87 ± 2.34%). In future, the inclusion of allantoin-rich extracts in various novel pharmaceutical forms for new therapeutic applications could be achieved. The study will continue with the formulation of a nutricosmetic product with snail mucus and Symphytum officinale extract as principal bioactive ingredients.

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Dosage of Bioactive Molecules in the Nutricosmeceutical Helix aspersa Muller Mucus and Formulation of New Cosmetic Cream with Moisturizing Effect

Cited by 27 publications

References 16 publications

The New Challenge of Green Cosmetics: Natural Food Ingredients for Cosmetic Formulations

The New Challenge of Green Cosmetics: Natural Food Ingredients for Cosmetic Formulations

An Extract from Ficus carica Cell Cultures Works as an Anti-Stress Ingredient for the Skin

Allantoin from Valuable Romanian Animal and Plant Sources with Promising Anti-Inflammatory Activity as a Nutricosmetic Ingredient

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