Three studies were conducted with three new dexpanthenol-containing emollients containing increasing lipid contents (Emollients 1–3) to assess their performances in healthy adults with dry skin. All three studies (N = 42 each) followed virtually the same design. A single skin application of the study product was performed followed by once-daily usage. Skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin biomechanical properties, and lipid content of the stratum corneum (SC) were regularly assessed over the 28-day study period; a subset (N = 22) underwent a sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) challenge prior to product application. All three emollients were well tolerated and showed good performances with only minor differences in instrumental measurements. After single and prolonged once-daily applications of Emollients 1–3 to dry skin and dry SLS-damaged skin, skin hydration significantly increased from baseline (BL) (by 38.1–72.4% in unchallenged skin, p < 0.001 for all three). This was paralleled by significant increases in skin elasticity parameters. Usage of Emollients 1 and 3 caused increases from BL in SC cholesterol (by 9.8–12.5%, p < 0.05 for both) and SC free fatty acid levels (by 3.7–26.3%, p < 0.05 for both) at the end of the study. No sustained effects on TEWL were recorded. Our findings support the once-daily use of all three emollients in adults with dry skin.
Objective The development of dry skin is a complex process, with a wide variety of factors each playing different roles in its evolution. Given this, it is important when designing a formulation to tackle dry skin that these varied aspects of skin behaviour are addressed. Presented here are the results of a 3‐week moisturization study carried out on dry legs. A wide range of traditional and more recently developed biophysical measurement methods have been combined with visual assessment of skin condition to enable multiple aspects of skin function to be determined. The observed changes in the skin are discussed in terms of the ingredients used in the moisturizing formulation. Methods A range of novel and traditional skin assessment methods and techniques were used to assess the effects of an oil in water‐based moisturizing product compared to an untreated site during a 3‐week in vivo study on dry lower leg skin. Results Statistically significant improvements were observed in a range of skin parameters as a result of product usage. Skin hydration assessed using Corneometer®, Epsilon® and visual dry skin grading all increased after 3 weeks of use. Skin barrier function measured using transepidermal water loss also improved. Levels of cholesterol, free fatty acids and Ceramide NH increased, as well as the average length of the stratum corneum (SC) lipid lamella bilayers, and the ratio of lipid to protein increased (measured using Lipbarvis® and in vivo Confocal Raman Spectroscopy). Increases in the levels of Ceramide EOS and NP were also observed, along with an improvement in corneocyte maturity, although these were not statistically significant. Conclusions Using a variety of traditional and novel skin assessment techniques, a wide range of factors associated with the evolution of dry skin have been assessed upon treatment with a new topical moisturizer. Product usage resulted in significant improvements to skin hydration and barrier function, the levels and morphology of SC barrier lipids, and overall epidermal differentiation. As a result there was a significant reduction in the characteristics associated with the development of dry skin after use of the test product.
Two novel body/face wash gels enriched with emollient ingredients (including dexpanthenol) were developed for the daily care of dry skin. Two similarly designed 2-week studies (N = 42 each) were conducted to assess the biophysical and cosmetic performance of each of the new wash gels in healthy adults with dry skin. Instrumental measurements quantified the effects of the wash gels on stratum corneum (SC) hydration and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) (with and without a previous sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) challenge) after single and repeated usage. Following single and repeated applications of the face wash gel to facial skin, as well as to dry SLS-undamaged and SLS-damaged skin of the forearm, skin hydration significantly increased. Similarly, after single and repeated usage of the body wash gel to dry SLS-undamaged and SLS-damaged skin of the forearm, skin moisturization increased significantly from baseline; comparisons with control areas provided inconsistent results for SLS-undamaged skin. No effects on TEWL were observed for either product. Both wash gels were well tolerated and the cosmetic performances were appreciated by the subjects. The study results suggest that daily use of the new wash gels was associated with significant skin-moisturizing effects without adversely affecting skin barrier function and repair.
Three novel face creams containing dexpanthenol with different lipid contents were developed for dry skin sufferers: a day face cream (DFC), a day face cream with sun protection (DFC-SPF), and a night face cream (NFC). Three identically designed studies (N = 42–44 each) were conducted with healthy adults of three ethnicities (African, Asian, Caucasian) with dry/sensitive skin. Effects on stratum corneum (SC) hydration, SC lipid content, and skin elasticity were quantified by established noninvasive methods during the 4-week studies. After single and repeated once-daily applications of the face creams, facial hydration significantly increased from baseline. On day 28, the mean increments in skin hydration amounted to 27%, 26%, and 27% (p < 0.0001 each) for DFC, DFC-SPF, and NFC, respectively. Favorable effects of DFC, DFC-SPF, and NFC on facial moisturization were observed in all three ethnic groups. The enhancements in SC hydration were not paralleled by improvements in skin elasticity parameters but lipid analyses showed significant increases in SC cholesterol, SC free fatty acid, and/or SC ceramide levels. All three face creams were well tolerated and achieved a high product satisfaction and acceptability by study participants. Our findings support the once-daily use of the face creams in adults of different ethnicities with dry and sensitive skin.
As new biophysical methods become available to the skin researcher it is important to understand the type of information that they are capable of measuring, and how it relates to consumer perception of topical moisturizing products. The aim of the work presented here was to understand what dry skin imaging can reveal about the skin and subject feedback from the use of a topical moisturizing product and how it relates to the consumer usage experience of a topical product. Images from a dry skin camera—the Visioscan® VC 20plus—during 3 weeks in vivo usage of a topical moisturizing product were analyzed. Subject feedback regarding their skin condition was also collected. Strong statistical improvements (p < 0.05) were observed for a wide range of skin parameters derived from the Visioscan® VC 20plus. Skin scaliness and smoothness and parameters associated with skin health and appearance (surface, energy, contrast, homogeneity) improved as a result of topical product usage. Subjects reported their skin to feel less dry, to be smoother, and more supple and to look and feel healthier after product usage. The length of time until they felt the need to re-apply the product increased during the study
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