The report describes a method for the assay of five enzymatic activities involved in establishing the stratum corneum permeability barrier: β-glucocerebrosidase, acid phosphatase, phospholipase A₂ (PLA₂) and two serine proteases: chymotrypsin and its activator in the stratum corneum, trypsin. The specific activities of these different enzymes have been determined along with their pH profiles and sensivities to specific inhibitors. It can be noted that only two presented a pH optimum similar to the pH of the stratum corneum. This could suggest that their activities are regulated by local variations in pH. The method was applied to a pathological situation, that of a non-eczematous dry atopic dermatitis. Atopic skin had significantly reduced trypsin activity, increased acid phosphatase and no change in the activities of three other studied enzymes. Understanding these activities can provide a tool for the characterization of skin pathologies and for the development of a certain number of applications in cosmetology and therapeutics.

We are increasingly exposed to environmental pollution. Pollutants can be inhaled, ingested or come into contact with the skin depending on the form in which they occur. On metabolization, activation, or accumulation, pollutants can become extremely toxic for the vital organs and this is often related to a strong genotoxic effect. Since the skin acts as a barrier between the organism and the environment, it is frequently directly exposed to pollution. It is very often degraded by polluting agents and acts as an inlet toward other tissues. Numerous studies in man recognize and demonstrate the carcinogenic power of certain pollutants in the digestive and respiratory tracts. The "pollutants" that react most specifically with the skin are: ultraviolet radiation, polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (e.g., benzo[a]pyrene), volatile organic compounds (e.g., benzene), heavy metals, and ozone. Ultraviolet radiation, a "physical" pollutant, has been described as being the factor responsible for most skin cancers in man. The genotoxicity of UV light is well documented (type of lesion or mutation, etc.) and its carcinogenic effect is clearly demonstrated in vivo in man. A few epidemiological studies describe the carcinogenicity of certain pollutants such as arsenic or lead on the skin. However, most of the evidence for the role of pollutants in skin cancers comes from in vivo animal studies or from in vitro studies (e.g., PAHs). In this report, different studies are presented to illustrate the research strategies developed to investigate the mechanism of action of "chemical" pollutants and their potential role in human skin pathology. All the study models and the associated techniques of investigation are tools for a better understanding and thus more efficient prevention of the deleterious effects caused by the environment.

Phospholipases A2 (PLA2) catalyse the release of fatty acids from the sn-2 position of phospholipids and have been suggested to play a key part in permeability barrier homeostasis. Using a sensitive and versatile fluorometric method, significant PLA2 activity has been detected in both human skin homogenates and tape strippings of stratum corneum. Based on various properties (resistance to heat and sulphuric acid treatment, neutral optimal pH, absolute requirement for millimolar calcium concentrations, inhibition by dithiothreitol and p-bromophenacyl bromide, and resistance to a trifluoromethyl ketone derivative of arachidonic acid, AACOCF3, a specific inhibitor of cytosolic PLA2), this enzyme was characterized as a secretory PLA2 (sPLA2). Immunohistochemistry revealed strong labelling of type I pancreatic sPLA2 at the stratum corneum-stratum granulosum junction, type II sPLA2 being undetectable. An increase in PLA2 activity in tape-stripped material from the deepest level of the stratum corneum was correlated with partial morphological disappearance of type I sPLA2 immunolabelling. Our data thus provide the first convincing evidence that pancreatic sPLA2 is significantly expressed in human epidermis, where it might participate in the accumulation of free fatty acids contributing to the permeability barrier. In addition, our method for determining PLA2 activity in easily available tape strippings should allow further clinical studies aimed to explore possible PLA2 abnormalities in various dermatoses.

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This review underlines the importance of different enzymes (β-glucocerebrosidase, phospholipase A₂, proteases and cholesterol sulfatase) in the formation and maintenance of the epidermal barrier function. Certain diseases may be characterized by the lack or excess of one or more of these different enzyme activities, altering the homeostatic equilibrium of the epidermis. In addition to this, particular enzymes may show potential in the development of novel dermocosmetic strategies.