[1] Laboratory experiments on cross-shore beach morphodynamics are presented. A lightweight sediment (density r s = 1.19 g cm À3 ) model is used in order to fulfill a Shields number and Rouse number scaling. This choice aims at correctly reproducing bed load transport as well as suspension dynamics. Terraces and barred beach profiles obtained in the experiments also present close similarities with profiles observed in the field. In order to question the concept of equilibrium beach profile, wave forcings conforming to a JONSWAP spectrum were imposed over long periods (up to more than a hundred hours). An average bottom evolution velocity is defined and used to determine when the profile reaches equilibrium. Usually, beach profiles are characterized according to the Wright and Short (1984) classification based on the Dean number W. This well-known classification is investigated and refined in the intermediate range, that is, for 1 W < 5. For W close to 1, a typical reflective profile is obtained. Terraces are obtained for the W = 2.5 cases. For W % 3.7, the profiles exhibit two parts: a mild dissipative offshore slope producing low reflection and a steeper beach face with slightly higher reflection. The wave dissipation, velocity skewness, and acceleration skewness are computed from the free surface elevation time series. The dissipation and wave nonlinearities patterns are similar for similar equilibrium beach profiles, that is, with the same Dean number. Dissipation peaks coincide with bottom slope transitions as higher energy dissipation occurs with milder bottom slope sections. Besides, the uniformity of volumetric wave energy dissipation seems to concern only a limited zone of beaches with a widely developed surf zone.
La thèse est avant tout une expérience humaine très enrichissante, qui m'a permis au cours de ces trois années de rencontrer de nombreuses personnes, de partager de précieux moments avec elles que ce soit au laboratoire, sur le terrain, en congrès ou en dehors. Cette thèse m'a permis de fouler le bel archipel de Saint-Pierre-et-Miquelon, un endroit que je n'aurai sans doute jamais connu autrement, de voir sa nature et de rencontrer ses habitants. Je remercie avant tout Nicolas Robin et Raphael Certain qui m'ont fait confiance dès le début et sans qui cette expérience n'aurait pas pu se produire. Ces trois années ont été bien remplies et nous ont permis, une fois nos marques prises, d'évoluer ensemble. C'est d'ailleurs avec beaucoup d'émotion que je tournerai cette page. Je remercie l'ensemble des financeurs qui ont permis la réalisation du projet EGIML, le Conseil
The central part of the Gulf of Lions shoreline is characterized by many coastal wetlands that resulted from the interaction between a process of shoreline regularization by migrations of littoral barriers and a slow filling of the back-barrier areas by the riverine and marine inputs. Analyses of Late-Holocene deposits with a very high-resolution multi-proxy study of two sediment cores, allow us to reconstruct the evolution of this coastal system. Two main Holocene sediment units are identified overlying a Pliocene carbonate continental formation. The lower unit consists of sandy and pebbly marine sediments deposited around 7800 B.P., during the final stand of the last sea level rise. Just above, the upper unit displays lagoonal grey clay silts with shells and some intercalated layers of silty sands related to paleostorm events. The age model was established from radiocarbon dating, for the oldest part of the core. Over the last century, sedimentation rates were calculated using the CFCS 210 Pb model, together with 137 Cs data. Radiocarbon data show an increase in the accumulation rate from the base to the top of cores. Marine sand units related to the last transgressive deposit allow to refine the curve of Holocene post-glacial sea level rise. Sedimentological and faunal analyses associated with chronological data provide a means for reconstructing the Late-Holocene paleoenvironments along this part of the coast and suggest that the final closure of the coastal lagoon by the sandy barrier occurred at around 730 ± 120 yr cal B.P. The beginning of this closure, together with the progradation of the coastal plain, could be responsible for the decline in economic activity of the Lattara harbour during the Roman period.Résumé. -La partie centrale du littoral du golfe du Lion est caractérisée par de nombreuses lagunes qui résultent de l'interaction entre un processus de régularisation du trait de côte par migration de barrières littorales et d'un lent remplissage des zones situées en arrière des barrières par des apports continentaux et marins. Les analyses des dépôts tardi-holocènes avec une étude multi-traceurs à très haute résolution de deux carottes sédimentaires nous permettent de reconstruire l'évolution de ce système côtier. Deux unités sédimentaires holocènes sont identifiées recouvrant une formation pliocène carbonatée. L'unité inférieure est constituée de sables et de galets d'origine marine déposés vers 7800 B.P., durant les stades ultimes de la dernière remontée marine. Au-dessus, l'unité supérieure montre des dépôts d'argile et de silt gris coquilliers d'origine lagunaire, dans lesquels sont intercalés des niveaux de sable silteux révélant la présence d'événements de tempêtes. Le modèle d'âge est établi à partir de dates radiocarbones pour les parties les plus anciennes des archives sédimentaires, tandis que pour le dernier siècle, les taux de sédimentation sont calculés en utilisant le modèle CFCS pour le 210 Pb, associé aux données de 137 Cs. Les données 14 C montrent une augmentation du taux d'accumula...
The sandy littoral of Sète, with its barred shoreface, is one of the three studied sites of the thematic action “Morphodynamics of sandy beaches” of the French Programme National d’Environnement Côtier (PNEC), selected because of its microtidal wave-dominated characteristics and of the long time series of available data. During the PNEC program, the principal results obtained show that the morphological evolution of the sedimentary bars can be synthesized according to two conceptual models, in reaction to hydrodynamic variability. (1) The model of “oscillation around a position of equilibrium” (O.P.E) defines the usual mode of behaviour of the bars, with an alternation of shoreward and seaward movements. The bars migrate seaward during storms and shoreward when the energy conditions decrease. This oscillation is expressed with several rhythms. (i) During the main phases of the bar evolution, which are long periods during which the bars present the same geometrical characters. The passage from one phase to the other occurs when a 4 m significant height storm happens. (ii) At the seasonal scale, which is well illustrated by the behaviour of the inner bar: during summer, when the conditions of agitation are weak, the bar aggregates punctually with the shore; when the conditions of agitation increase in autumn the inner bar is reformed and moved seaward. (2) The model of “Net Offshore Migration” (N.O.M) points to the tendency of the bars to retreat under the effect of paroxysmal events (storms with a 20 to 50 yrs return time) being a prelude to their degeneration. From the former position of equilibrium, the outer bar strongly moves seaward and drops following heavy swell. Instead of moving to the coast according to the O.P.E model, the outer bar loses material that is recovered by the inner bar and degenerates. The inner bar, exposed to the swell, then moves seaward to replace the initial outer bar, a new inner bar being created at the coast. A few years after, the standard pattern is restored. These results are compared with those described in the literature.
A large multi-institutional nearshore field experiment was conducted at Truc Vert, on the Atlantic coast of France in early 2008. Truc Vert'08 was designed to measure beach change on a long, sandy stretch of coast without engineering works with emphasis on large winter waves (offshore significant wave height up to 8 m), a threedimensional morphology, and macro-tidal conditions. Nearshore wave transformation, circulation and bathymetric changes involve coupled processes at many spatial and temporal scales thus implying the need to improve our knowledge for the full spectrum of scales to achieve a comprehensive view of the natural system. This experiment is unique when compared with existing experiments because of the simultaneous investigation of processes at different Dynamics (2011) 61:2073-2098 DOI 10.1007 scales, both spatially (from ripples to sand banks) and temporally (from single swash events to several spring-neap tidal cycles, including a major storm event). The purpose of this paper is to provide background information on the experiment by providing detailed presentation of the instrument layout and snapshots of preliminary results.
International audienceThe stratigraphy of the last deglaciation sequence is investigated in Lake Saint-Jean (Québec Province, Canada) based on 300 km of echo-sounder two dimensional seismic profiles. The sedimentary archive of this basin is documented from the Late Pleistocene Laurentidian ice-front recession to the present-day situation. Ten seismic units have been identified that reflect spatio-temporal variations in depositional processes characterizing different periods of the Saint-Jean basin evolution. During the postglacial marine flooding, a high deposition rate of mud settling, from proglacial glacimarine and then prodeltaic plumes in the Laflamme Gulf, produced an extensive, up to 50 m thick mud sheet draping the isostatically depressed marine basin floor. Subsequently, a closing of the water body due to glacio-isostatic rebound occurred at 8.5 cal. ka BP, drastically modifying the hydrodynamics. Hyperpycnal flows appeared because fresh lake water replaced dense marine water. River sediments were transferred towards the deeper part of the lake into river-related sediment drifts and confined lobes. The closing of the water body is also marked by the onset of a wind-driven internal circulation associating coastal hydrodynamics and bottom currents with sedimentary features including shoreface deposits, sediment drifts and a prograding shelf-type body. The fingerprints of a forced regression are well expressed by mouth-bar systems and by the shoreface-shelf system, the latter unexpected in such a lacustrine setting. In both cases, a regressive surface of lacustrine erosion (RSLE) has been identified, separating sandy mouth-bar from glaciomarine to prodeltaic muds, and sandy shoreface wedges from the heterolithic shelf-type body, respectively. The Lake Saint-Jean record is an example of a regressive succession driven by a glacio-isostatic rebound and showing the transition from late-glacial to post-glacial depositional systems
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