The demand for halal cosmetic products among the 2.4 billion Muslim consumers worldwide is increasing. However, the demand for halal cosmetics remains unmet because cosmetics production is dominated by non-halal cosmetic manufacturers, whose production methods may not conform with the requirements of halal science. The development of halal cosmetics and the assessment of their product performance is still in its infancy. The integration of halal science in the manufacture of most cosmetic products remains inadequate. Moreover, there is a global dearth of guiding documents on the development and assessment techniques in the production of comprehensively halal cosmetics. This paper aims to abridge existing literature and knowledge of halal and cosmetic science in order to provide essential technical guidance in the manufacture of halal cosmetics. In addition, the adoption of these methods addresses the unique ethical issues associated with conformance of cosmetics’ product performance to religious practices and halal science. It highlights the applicability of established methods in skin science in the assessment of halal cosmetics.
In this study, we developed a technique for high-throughput screening (HTS) of skin penetration-enhancers using stratum corneum lipid liposomes (SCLLs). A fluorescent marker, sodium fluorescein (FL), entrapped in SCLLs was prepared to provide a preliminary evaluation of the effect of different concentrations of ethanol on the disruption effect of SCLLs, which is an alternative for skin penetration-enhancing effects. In addition, SCLLs containing a fluorescent probe (DPH, TMA-DPH, or ANS) were also prepared and utilized to investigate SCLL fluidity. The results using SCLL-based techniques were compared with conventional skin permeation and skin impedance test using hairless rat skin. The obtained correlations were validated between FL leakage, SCLL fluidity with various probes, or skin impedance and increases in the skin permeation enhancement ratio (ER) of caffeine as a model penetrant. As a result, FL leakage and SCLL fluidity using ANS were considered to be good indices for the skin penetration-enhancing effect, suggesting that the action of ethanol on the SC lipid and penetration-enhancing is mainly on the polar head group of intercellular lipids. In addition, this screening method using SCLL could be utilized as an alternative HTS technique for conventional animal tests. Simultaneously, the method was found to be time-saving and sensitive compared with a direct assay using human and animal skins.
The objective of the present study is to search for a good selection method of phospholipids to design liposome preparations with high skin penetration-enhancing effects.Five kinds of phosphatidylcholines and phosphatidylglycerols each were selected. First, phospholipid aqueous dispersions and liposomes containing caffeine as a model drug were tested for their skin penetration-enhancing effects using excised hairless rat skin. As results, 1,2-distearoyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphocholine (DSPC) and 1,2-dipalmitoyl-sn-glycero-3phosphoglycerol, sodium salt (DPPG) dispersions showed high penetration-enhancing ratio (ER), whereas DPPG, 1,2-dilauroyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphocholine (DLPC) and 1,2dimyristoyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphocholine (DMPC) liposomes showed high ER, suggesting that liposomes had different skin penetration-enhancing mechanisms from phospholipid dispersions. Next, two kinds of experiments were done to clarify the possible mechanism of liposomes as follows: the excised skin was pretreated for 1 h with caffeine-free phospholipid dispersions and liposomes, and caffeine solution was added to determine its skin permeation.Separately, caffeine permeation experiments were done using physical mixture of blank liposomes and caffeine solution (caffeine-spiked liposomes) and caffeine-entrapped liposomes (caffeine was entrapped only in liposomes). As results, DPPG was a promising phospholipid candidate to fabricate liposome formulations with high skin penetration-enhancing effects, since DPPG phospholipid and its liposome vesicles had a combination effect to disrupt the SC lipid barrier as well as could carry both free and entrapped caffeine in the formulation through the skin.
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